jordansahls Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 The skiing has only been decent for around a week or so from what I have seen and heard. Anyway, There is still time for it to be a great year it just hasn't been so far (give or take a week or two). Quote
smash and grab Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 Tr of some ice alternatives: Stuart Lake Ice  Did some of that stuff awhile ago. Good fun if ya don't get on anything bigger. Quote
Dannible Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 I've climbed some of the easier flows in Lworth over the last few days. The Goatee was in, Millennium will probably be coming in in a few days, and that new route (The Penstock) past the tunnel in the Tumwater was still there, but got thin and faded away up high. It looked like the route just before the tunnel which we climbed last year might be in next week (it's supposed to stay cold until the end of the week). Hubba Hubba looked very thin from the road, but should come in. Over all it is really dry in Leavenworth. Not much snow on the hill sides and apparently not much water in the ground. I'd bet banks is ok, but I couldn't find anyone to go there with me on short notice. Quote
spionin Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 climbed death picnic today (friday). the route is in excellent shape, and we had an awesome day. Â we rappelled the route in a single 70 m stretch (with about 1/2 m to spare), but the ropes got badly stuck. after trying to free them for a very long time, after it got pitch black and in worsening weather we had to leave the ropes. [yes, i've already made mental jokes about russians having a knack for leaving "fixed ropes" on routes, thanks.] Â this sucks, and i need to get the ropes down. i hate to ask anyone to carry my shit, but if you are planning to climb the route please let me know if you'd be willing to take down the ropes. feel free to use them for descent, provided you can figure out how to free them. there's a piece of webbing around a tree, through which the ropes are threaded. while two people rapped off the tree, i wouldn't necessarily suggest jumaring up with the tree as the only anchor. i'd love to get them back, and i'll do my best to pay you back. Â or if anyone is going to heather meadows area in the next few days, please let me know if i can carpool with you/ski out with you (avy potential is supposed to increase, i believe). Â thanks! sorry about the ropes, i'll get them down in the next few days. -veronika Quote
spionin Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 Didja get any pics?  here's a picture of the route  on route Quote
montypiton Posted January 15, 2012 Posted January 15, 2012 11-worth is indeed dry. Climbed at Millenium wall on Thursday, jan-12. Minimal, but leadable. Tumwater climbs seem to be in again, but no Comic Book Hero. Smear looks attractive, but approach from e. leavenworth road is closed because of construction. best approach is floatie from launch site directly opposite smear. can approach down railroad grade from pipeline bridge, but that's in the neighborhood of five miles - hardly worth it. My son climbed Low Flow, just up the road from Icicle Buttress, yesterday. five minute approach, so even if its not really in, you're not out much for walking up to it. Quote
Vernman23 Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 went to banks today. the punch bowl is in but has deathcicles above it. Climbed "More Banks Ice" and the corner route. was enough in for a fun day. its cold so more should come in soon. Â Quote
jstreet Posted January 17, 2012 Posted January 17, 2012 (edited) Nice work guys, Death Picnic is such a cool route! Edited January 17, 2012 by jstreet Quote
philking Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) Strobach Motherload from Sunday 1/15 lots of variation in the ice: soggy, aerated, "poppy"(layered) and plastic - temps were in the upper teens  https://picasaweb.google.com/phil.nomad/StrobachJan152012?authuser=0&feat=directlink  (sorry, I don't know how to post pictures) Edited January 19, 2012 by philking Quote
Alex Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 philking, I looked at the pics and that stuff is pretty thin relative to normal for mid-January. What was the approach like? Quote
sobo Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Agreed, very thin looking for Stroh's for this time of year... Â Hey Alex, I see where philking had names on his picasaweb page for a bunch of the old unnamed stuff in your guide. Is there a decoder ring somewhere to update my guidebook with these names? Quote
philking Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Approach: Drove (a little sketchy) up to a little past the South end of Kloochman, dropped gear, drove back down, hiked up light and camped in the woods around 609. only climbed the bottom pitch of Dropline - got soaked from above. Quote
sobo Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Approach: Drove (a little sketchy) up to a little past the South end of Kloochman, dropped gear, drove back down...Was there no way to park in the large flat area just around the bend past the south tip of Kloochman? That big flat area that looks like an old gravel pit? Quote
philking Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 We we weren't sure how much snow was coming in over the weekend. As it turns out, it's good we did - skied out Monday Quote
Alex Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Decoder ring is the online guide:  http://wastateice.net/Guide.aspx  Select "Strobach Mountain" from the Areas dropdown  Almost all of that is up-to-date, climbers left-to-right. (Looking at it, I have to edit Watchtower with the FA info.) Quote
sobo Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Ah, shoulda known to check yer website! Thx, AK! Quote
JDCH Posted January 19, 2012 Posted January 19, 2012 Climbed Alpental Falls both last Friday, and this Monday. The ice was less than good, but it made for a quick approach and some fun top roping after leading up with only psychological protection. Thinner on friday, albeit less buried, as I am sure it is now. Still water running underneath the ice on Monday. Also went to check out Hubba Hubba on Saturday in Leavenworth, the ice looked great, however, i quickly learned why its also called the funnel as I walked up and a huge slide came down right in front of me. I figured I can come back on a less snowy day-- But the ice looked great, as did both flows on either side of it. Pictures to come shortly   Quote
Alex Posted January 20, 2012 Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) So, I am not sure exactly what that is you are calling Alpental Falls and climbing on last couple days, it may be something further to the left in the same Phantom Slide drainage, but Alpental Falls is much steeper, longer, and more sustained than the line in your photos. Â Here is what the pitch looks like prior to snow fall, from the right side of the lower pitch, you can see me in the lower left, with my little yellow Edelrid helmet. I believe this is one of the pics mikeadam took of me leading this thing early season many years ago. I protected the lower 30 m with a single kb, then clipped a long sling hanging from the branches on the right, then went to the top on unprotectable ice cubes. Fun WI3 Â Edited January 20, 2012 by Alex Quote
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