Jump to content

[TR] Sahale - East Face Couloir 10/18/2011


Recommended Posts

Trip: Sahale - East Face Couloir


Date: 10/18/2011


Trip Report:

On Tuesday Kurt Hicks and I wandered over to the Davenport glacier on the east side of Sahale. We climbed a long and exceedingly narrow couloir that gains the ridge just north of the summit, visible in this Scurlock Scurlock Photo of Sahale E Face photo. I don't know if it's been climbed or not.



The entrance was the crux and very fun: a chimney fest between a vertical fin of last year's snow and the wall of the couloir. We found snow of varying hardness, 50 degrees with a few steep bulges of ice and rock. In these thin conditions the couloir is maybe 5 feet wide in places--very cool. The pics in my blog post might give you some idea of how things look up there if you have been wondering.



There's a lot of snow and with a little more melt-freeze there will be all sorts of fun to be had up there.


Gear Notes:

Screws, pins, rack, tools.


Approach Notes:

Road open to the end. Intermittent snow began just short of the pass, or 5,000'. The Arm was mostly snow covered.

Edited by Gaston
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't know which one you mean Alex. There is only one prominent bottom-to-top line on the East Face, though you could climb the snow slope to the left of our line that starts in a long, overhanging ice plug.


Dan - We went up the Arm to the Sahale Glacier Camp at 7500' (3 hours), then had some shenanigans down to the Davenport via a rock rib (the SE ridge, kind of) and snow slopes all the way to 6300' before climbing back up to the start (2 more hours to the base). Good route-finding in the dark was crucial.


BTW - the rock in the couloir was quite good and rock pro, though spaced, would be the best for belays.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crossing lower than we did isn't really possible given the steepness of the terrain between the Sahale Glacier Camp and Horsehoe Basin. Maybe you could drop into Doubtful Lake and traverse from there? The least technical approach (but most elevation gain) would probably be to walk over Cascade Pass and down into Pelton Creek, then turn onto the Basin Creek Trail and trudge up into Horseshoe Basin.


Camping where we did, however, make the descent easy and you don't have to carry over. An easy 30 minutes from the top to camp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...