Tyson.g Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Cool idea Curt. I would chip in. Anyone else? Thank you for keeping your word and your service for the safety of our community. If there is anyway I can help please let me know. ~Keri Totally agree. There should be a Paypal account (if there isn't already) that the rest of us can pitch a few bucks into. You and other folks doing the maintenance shouldn't have to cover the hardware costs as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 Leavenworth Clamshell Cove crag July 8, 2013 Replaced 5 top rope anchors. Inspected all remaining anchors. Didn't bring a rope, so I didn't replace any of the lead bolts. Don't put epoxy on the top of bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Just guessing that the epoxy was placed in order to discourage vandals. I believe that anchors have been removed a few times at that location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 13, 2013 Author Share Posted July 13, 2013 Leavenworth Mount Stuart, North Ridge Gendarme rappel station (original route) July 11, 2013 Replaced two 1/4" bolts with 3/8" stainless and a Fixe stainless anchor. Good for another 100 years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Exit 38 July 24, 2013 W/ Forest McBrian & Erin Smart Substation Wall Homo Erectus - Replaced both anchor bolts Write-Off Rock Flammable Pajamas - Replaced both anchor bolts Knife in the Toaster - Replaced one anchor bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted July 26, 2013 Share Posted July 26, 2013 Dude, you're awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Exit 38 We Did Rock July 26, 2013 Your Sister - Replaced 2 anchor bolts and chains. My X Wife - Added one anchor bolt with chains. Will replace other bolt in the future. Didn't have the proper removal tools to take out the open shuts on the existing manky anchor, but at least now there is a closed link to thread the rope through. The Joke - Replaced missing hangers and added camouflaged chains. Some Drugs - Replaced the existing stacked chain/washer rap anchor. Thanks to Petzl for donating the hangers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Nice work Kurt! Reminds me that I have some chain sandwiches to replace too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Still finding lots to do at the crags! Little Si Repo II anchor replacement October 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I heart Kurt. So does my wife. Anchors on all the routes in mid land at exit 32. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 those are some of the older routes up there, so that's not surprising. I'll put it on the list, but writing the new Snoqualmie Valley guidebook is taking priority these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 [img:left]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1375040_497812556984374_581339952_n.jpg[/img] What the stainless apparatus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 ClimbTech Wave glue-ins. 1/2" x 4.5". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 That's what I thought and was afraid of. I thinks those will be the next unsightly junk. They are affordable, but I think they will be shown to be a poor substitute for SS all thread and a standard brake metal hanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 get out there and replace some bolts num1mc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateF Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 Wow, look what we have been hanging our asses on for years! Thanks Kurt for replacing this stuff! I also appreciate any constructive comments made about hardware being installed today, after all it is what we'll be hanging our asses on for the next decade(s). num1mc can you support your statements with some information? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I've only pulled 1/4" split shanks, which come out in seconds with a tuning fork or two. How are you pulling those rusty 3/8"s? Unscrew it, whack it with the hammer to loosen it up and pull out the cone and sleeve, or are you just patching the holes and drilling new bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 num1mc can you support your statements with some information? Just that they have a smaller cross section than equivalent rod that would go into a nominal 1/2 glue whole, and have a very ad hoc garage built look to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 a properly placed glue in of that type (with the legs twisted together and very well cleaned hole) should be good to 30kN. They're good enough for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 num1mc can you support your statements with some information? Just that they have a smaller cross section than equivalent rod that would go into a nominal 1/2 glue whole, and have a very ad hoc garage built look to them. Glue-in bolts are the standard across all of the EU, though some folks still place in "bolt-in" (a.k.a. expansion bolts) hardware in some places. Our American homegrown bolting systems are long overdue for some updating, especially on the west side of the Cascades where use of non-stainless hardware runs rampant and is not a long lasting solution. I do appreciate and understand the perception that glue-in hardware may look more 'garage built', but the reality is that all climbing hardware that has passed CE rating is deemed safe for climbing regardless of its outward appearance. I think educating the American climbing public will serve us all well in this regard—although, let's be honest, most folks will clip whatever is there since they want to do the climb—and that is the whole reason for going to all of the trouble of replacing this bad hardware. In this instance, these were chosen for a) longevity in a corrosive environment b) a very high use area where it is conceivable for multiple parties to be on them at one time and c) glue-ins are the only bolt that only exerts force on the rock when it is being weighted, unlike all other bolts, which is a good thing in fractured rhinostone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Thanks for your efforts Kurt, much appreciated! If I catch num1mc's drift, I don't think he is questioning the glue-ins, but the type of glue-in as maybe being less than optimal. I am too ignorant to have an opinion, but you guys may be talking past one another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
num1mc Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Yea, I've spent days straight putting in Hilti anchors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron cotman Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Leavenworth Clamshell Cove crag July 8, 2013 Replaced 5 top rope anchors. Inspected all remaining anchors. Didn't bring a rope, so I didn't replace any of the lead bolts. Don't put epoxy on the top of bolts! Perhaps not the best choice but I'm responsible for that epoxy. 12-15 years ago there was a wave of hanger theft at a number of different Leavenworth crags, Clamshell Cave having been hit several times. I did it to deter theft and obviously it worked quite well. (I would note that I reused the existing studs.) Fairly certain that was the only place epoxy was ever used by myself. I appreciate all efforts made toward replacing "sketchy" hardware, however having removed a well rounded assortment of Leavenworth funk myself, IMO I don't feel just because a bolt is a button head or a fixed pin was used it should be considered "sketchy". Many of the 5/16 button heads are extremely solid and quite difficult to remove and aren't always "relics". Same goes for well placed fixed pins. I would hate to see the character of some climbs changed by a blanket removal of fixed pins and button heads. Leavenworth's arid nature preserves even non stainless hardware for many generations and replacement should be analyzed on an individual basis. That said, thanks again for your efforts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted December 24, 2013 Author Share Posted December 24, 2013 I agree Ron. Thanks for chiming in! Most of the funk in Leavenworth isn't that funky. There aren't that many 1/4" or 5/16" button heads that remain really (but it's fun to go looking for them). And 5/16" are really strong if they were done right the first time (and really hard to remove!). I haven't replaced a single fixed pin with a bolt, nor do I plan on it. The goal is to never change of the character of a route and to evaluate the need for replacement one piece at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 Lots of good bolts in Ltown but on many of the harder routes some serious mank. Just a few that could use some upgrading: RPM P1 Stevens Pass Motel Dagoba System Gullivers Travels Mastadon Roof Anchors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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