ron cotman

Mastadon roof anchors are less than 10yrs old, what's wrong with them? Yes Sol, Midnight is a prime candidate for upgrades. The routes are challenging enough without crap fixed gear. *I'm not trying to be negative, I support most hardware upgrades. Many many thousands have been spent on Levy fixed hardware, both new routing and replacement, mostly by just a few individuals. Hate to see those efforts wasted needlessly. I do feel most people don't get that just because a bolt isn't stainless it isn't necessarily inferior. For example: A 3/8 zinc plated 5-piece (which is actually a grade 5 5/16" bolt) is in fact considerably stronger than a stainless 3/8 stud.

Perhaps not the best choice but I'm responsible for that epoxy. 12-15 years ago there was a wave of hanger theft at a number of different Leavenworth crags, Clamshell Cave having been hit several times. I did it to deter theft and obviously it worked quite well. (I would note that I reused the existing studs.) Fairly certain that was the only place epoxy was ever used by myself. I appreciate all efforts made toward replacing "sketchy" hardware, however having removed a well rounded assortment of Leavenworth funk myself, IMO I don't feel just because a bolt is a button head or a fixed pin was used it should be considered "sketchy". Many of the 5/16 button heads are extremely solid and quite difficult to remove and aren't always "relics". Same goes for well placed fixed pins. I would hate to see the character of some climbs changed by a blanket removal of fixed pins and button heads. Leavenworth's arid nature preserves even non stainless hardware for many generations and replacement should be analyzed on an individual basis. That said, thanks again for your efforts!