[TR] West McMillan Spire Speed Climb - West Ridge 8/1/2011

[off_the_hook]

Trip: West McMillan Spire Speed Climb - West Ridge

 

Date: 8/1/2011

 

Trip Report:

Having thoroughly enjoyed the climb of West McMillan Spire in 2007, I figured it was time to return. With route knowledge and generally good conditions I was able to better the 2007 time by just over 3 hours to 8:14 roundtrip.

 

Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Real Time

Goodell Creek Trailhead (600 ft) : 0 / 05:45

Climbers Path Turnoff (1,600 ft) : 45:28 / 06:30

Heather Bench [top of hill climb] (5,200 ft) : 1:50:30 / 07:35

Arrive West McMillan Summit (8,000 ft) : 4:20:19 / 10:05

Depart West McMillan Summit (8,000 ft) : 4:41:01 / 10:26

Heather Bench [top of hill climb] (5,200 ft) : 6:46:08 / 12:31

Climbers Path Turnoff (1,600 ft) : 7:40:40 / 13:26

Goodell Creek Trailhead (600 ft) : 8:14:12 / 14:00

 

 

[video:youtube]

 

Thanks Val Zephyr for the route conditions. The climbers path from Goodell Creek to the heather benches at 5,200 ft is a masterpiece of elevation gain. One major difference from the prior trip report were the snow conditions, which were firm and even icy in spots. This generally allowed for fast travel on the traverse from the heather benches to the Terror Glacier. However, the short descent from the 6,300+ ft notch and the final steeper snow slope up to the West Ridge required some attention. Maybe it was the rain the previous day or simply a factor of travelling on a chilly morning. On the descent the snow conditions were already getting slightly softer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Black Diamond Neve Strap Crampons; Ultimate Direction Wasp Pack, First Endurance EFS and Ultragen; La Sportiva Raptors

 

Approach Notes:

A couple brushy sections on the Goodell Creek Trail. The climbers path is generally easy to follow, but if you lose it, retrace your steps and find it.

[ZimZam]

Have those La Sportiva's got wings? Blazin'.

[keenwesh]

good work! that approach is just a little strenuous....

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

How did you find time to take all those pics?? :-)

[cascadesdj]

You take some of the best pics! Keep 'em coming, it's inspiring to look at your TRs.

[kukuzka1]

Let the games begin!

[Skeezix]

Sick.

 

[trumpetsailor]

Burly.

[mick_scott]

Nice images - Thanks for sharing

[Whatcomboy]

8:14 roundtrip? Your from another planet.

[silence]

nothing seems to slow you down .. whether it's the high altitude of the sierras or the incredible steeps of the nc .. you just keep kicking ass sir

 

and yes .. gorgeous and awe-inspiring ..thx for the beautiful collection of photos ..

Edited August 7, 2011 by silence

[sub4not]

Did you do without ropes? I am not a climber, can scramble fine, strong hiker. I want to do this hike this Summer. 

[JasonG]

Most climbers wouldn't use a rope on West Mac, but it is not hiking terrain.  Steep snow, exposed rock, and other alpine hazards are to be expected @sub4not.  You will need experience on all that terrain plus ice axe arrest, and cramponing skills.....at the minimum. 

Don't think of @off_the_hook as your average "hiker".  Most would consider this a climb, and a strenuous one requiring several days at that.

This incident from last summer is still unresolved:  https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report.2022-08-23.9660572281

[Bronco]

Climbers Path Turnoff (1,600 ft) : 45:28 / 06:30 

Heather Bench [top of hill climb] (5,200 ft) : 1:50:30 / 07:35

That's 3,600' in 65 minutes. 🤢