[TR] Darrington - Squire Creek Drainage - Not Chicken 7/2/2011

[Tyson.g]

Trip: Darrington - Squire Creek Drainage - Not Chicken 5.9 A1

 

Date: 7/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

My plan was to recon the lower portions of a project I have been dreaming about for a while. I wanted to see if it was reasonable to establish a direct approach to my area of interest.

 

Having heard rumors of remaining lingering snow in the upper portion of Chickenshit gully I was hesitant to run up without getting a better look at that side of the wall first.

 

Smedley and I met on Friday and enjoyed a nice night of laughing, drinking beer and burning stuff before turning in and getting a start on Saturday.

 

Saturday we ran our bivy gear back to the truck having decided to do some road maintenance on 2060 that evening after some explorating. We started up the trail with our climbing rucksacks and I with high hopes for my approach variation. We made good time to the Slab Daddy turn off and then further to the Illusion Wall turn off. We discussed turning in here but decided to go up valley and get a look at the wall.

 

We hiked and kept getting glimpses out toward the South face of Squire Creek wall and found that the snow rumored to be in the upper gully is gone but that Oympus Ledge our typical bivy spot is still holding a bunch.

 

It is evident now after a closer inspection of the terrain that my idea of approaching the bottom of CS gully via the South Draniage is not a feasible option.

 

We decided to continue up valley and explore some of the other walls the area has to offer. At about 2.5 miles from the signed trailhead we came to a large creek washout that runs nearly all the way down to Squire Creek. We took a short break here and glassed the cliffs on the other side of the valley. We were able to spot a person at the base of the Excalibur route by using binocs and my telephoto lens. I was actually able to get a photo from all the way across the valley. There were more than a few enticing lines and we discussed which section we should go explore. I could see what I thought were a few possibilities on the wall directly across from us and conveniently the closest one as well.

 

It is a sure fact that I have been doing far too much cragging and have gotten soft from the short easy approaches. It was quick work down to the creek and we found a place to ford relatively easily without much troube. The aforementioned fact of my softness was driven home to me whilst I thrashed and thrutched my way through an evil thicket of slide alder cursing, sweating and wondering why I was not getting around to climbing Excalibur instead of bush bashing. After what seemed a never ending slow dance in purgatory we emerged into a great talus/boulder field that allowed for some fun scrambling and bouldering as we ascended.

 

The boulder field had an awesome array of all sizes of caves. We found a unique boulder in a great position with an interesting cave below it which turned out to be the residence of the local bat population. It is now the "Bat Cave Boulder" and has upon it a sweet cairn.

We had to bush bash another 30' or so through the slide alder and finally reached the base of the wall. We eyed some lines and decide to traverse the base to climbers left to see what else was there. We moved about 300' and found a dirty but attractive left facing corner. There is a nice steep, chicken head featured face to climbers right of the crack but it is not protectable with trad gear.

 

We took a break here and decided I would have a go for a ways up and see what was what.

The line I chose starts with a left facing corner that takes hand size cams well. I climbed the corner for a few move and then worked on to the rib and moved up the edge of the chicken headed face. I then moved back left to the corner, found some pro and continued up and left to a small bush.

 

Now let me say right here that I am not ashamed to admit to a whole barrage of questionable physical tactics to climb something especially if it is unkown terrain and I am apparently the first one up it.

 

I climbed up the corner which was becoming more of a shallow open book and the protectable crack was dissappearing. I was able to find another TCU placement and was glad for it because the next 15' of the open book had about a 2 1/2' root running down the crease and fully embedded to the rock. I was currently stemming the slab to either side and using a pinch grip on the root to make forward progress. About 10' out from my last piece I found a precaroius rest and tried to clean away the dirt on either side of the root, hoping to be able to thread a runner around it for pro but it was not to be. That thing was in there tight! I was starting to get a little buzzed and was not seeing a chance for pro anywhere so I decided to give it some aid. I used a knifeblade between said root and the rock wall on the right it went in like a solid framing nail. I clipped a mountain runner to it and yarded on that baby....it was good. I clipped it to the rope and took a nice deep breath.

 

Looking ahead I was still at a loss, no holds other than the tree root and some delicate smearing I took a step out left to see around the corner, nothing. I went back right, grabbed another pin, nailed it the same as before, clipped a biner to it and used it as a handle. I pulled myself up and repositioned my feet. I clipped in and repeated. At this point I was able to step out and left to a little less steep terrain and return to climbing free.

 

I moved around a small tree and up some lower angled terrain with a protectable crack. The crack I was in was nice hands and there was a wider crack to my right that I was looking at moving over to but the climbing was good and the crack I was in continued so I kept at it. As I climbed the crack I was in angled off left and the slab below it grew taller soon I was in a finger tips only crack smearing my feet on blank slab, occasionally getting a toe in where my hand just left and fighting to get small pieces in every ten to fifteen feet.

 

I fought back panic as I felt this was the hardest climbing I had done in a long time and especially being on lead and forging a new route. I started trying only to focus on the positives, this hold is good, my feet are solid, that last piece should hold. etc.

 

My tactics were working I was pulling moves harder than I thought I could and then suddenly, the crack petered out and I was left at a pod/side cling for my left hand, nothing for my feet and a small ripple of a dike for my right hand.I looked back to my last piece, a 00 metolius tcu crammed in the finger crack, 15 feet below me. I pulled on the pod and steeped up. My feet slipped and I back stepped. I looked and could see the move I needed to make. This was it 10 more feet and I was in the clear. I cold see the angle ease and it looked like protectable ground ahead. I needed to make these moves and establish a belay. I knew I was near the end of the rope both literally and physically. I tried the moves again.No good. I was starting to swear. I could feel my strength giving out. I needed some gear.I fumbled on my harness for one of my last remaining cams. I knew the #4 HB quadcam would fit perfect. I finally got it in my hand and pulled the trigger and shoved it in the pod. It held. I gave it a tug. It spit right out of the pod. My confidence was shattered. I tried again. It was all wrong. It was not going to work. Fuck, I screamed in my own head. I reached down and grabbed the biner full of lost arrows. I bashed one in about 3/4 the way and clipped it. I back stepped and was able to find a rest. I tried one more time to make the moves but I was spent.

 

I heard Smedley yelling up but I could not make out exactly what he was saying other than there was not much rope left. I looked out to my left and toward a treed gully and saw a belay stance. Now to traverse the fifteen feet of slab to get there. I made some tenative moves with my feet and found good holds. I Eased over onto both feet and then reached far out to my left hoping. My fingers brushed a chickenhead and suddenly everything was alot less intense. I trotted some nice knobs and chickenheads to a belay at two cedar trees.

 

I got to the belay set up and called down to Smedley and then I sat there panting and wanting to puke from the adrenaline rush.

 

I brought Smedley up,who once he came around the corner and saw the finger traverse hollered " I would Not have wanted to lead that!" I told him it was solid and to enjoy it on TR.

 

Smedley joined me at the belay and we took one and a half raps back to the ground.

 

I left one piton at the traverse at the top to the belay.

 

We enjoyed a well earned beer at the base and began our

hike out.

 

We were able to link the talus/boulder field all the way to the creek and avoided any of the hellish bush we encountered on the way in. From the top we estimated 1 1/2 hours back to the main trail. It ended up only being one hour.

 

From there it was a mad dash to the creek beers at last nights camp. Cold beer never tasted so good.

 

We moved over to Exfoliation Dome to cut down the trees that were mentioned to be blocking the road but when we arrived there were already people at the big camp so we pulled off on a side spot and had a few drinks, The day caught up with us pretty quick and we both had an early night of it.

 

I woke up around 5:00am on Sunday to rain and heavy clouds.

 

We spent a few hours having breakfast and then decided to bag it.

 

It was great to get out and adventure again. It has been a while. I have been obsessed with beta and guide books and forgot how good it feels to just look at something and give it a go.

 

 

 

More Photos Here: Not Chicken

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Set of Metolius TCU's, handful of mountain runners, used 1 LA and 3 KB's,1 60m rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Followed Squire Creek Trail past the old trailhead sign and to the next large washed out creek. Followed wash to Squire Creek and got wet. Bashed up slide alder to talus and up to the base of the route.

[Trent]

Looks like a good Darrington adventure Tyson! Congrats!

[DRep]

Nice Tyson! Its funny that it rained in the Morning. My wife and I climbed Silent running at 3:30pm in the sun and on bone dry rock. Dries out fast up there I guess. We had the valley to ourselves. Looks like adventure climbing at it's finest!

[hanman]

Great job Tyson-sounds like the adrenal system was functional

 

That was us at the Blueberry campsite where you guys turned around, just down from a bit of adventurin' ourselves on Exfo. Great to get out!!

 

MH

[Tyson.g]

Damn Mark, I nearly got out of the truck to see if I knew anyone but I did not want to impose.

I should have, I could have used a little help with the whiskey.

 

 

DRep - Yeah we hung out until about 8:00am but it was not looking promising. I have had similar experiences out there where I hiked in while it was raining and was able to climb Silent Running without too much waiting for it to dry out.

 

Thanks Trent!

 

[hanman]

Tyson-

 

Please remember that I am always available to help with the whiskey. Always.

[Pete_H]

How many pitches?

[Tyson.g]

As of right now: one 180' pitch.

To continue to the top of the crag would be; I estimate 8 or so pitches.

I will let you know soon enough.

 

[Pete_H]

Usually the spray doesn't start until after the route is climbed but why wait I guess.

[Tyson.g]

Route was climbed. All 180' of it.

Not a project; therefore it is essentially done.

Unless there is new rule that all routes to be considered "climbed" must go to the top?

Can it go further? Probably.

Will it? Maybe.

Spray or chestbeating? I do not think so.

Write up to share excitement about a small adventure? That was the intent, nothing else.

Tyson geBauer

 

 

[Riley81]

Great TR Tyson. Always good adventure to be had in Durrington. Thanks for taking out those trees, thought it looked different on the way down. Definetly have to take weedwhacker to that road soon so I can stop scratching up my sube heading up to the dome.

[Rainman]

Nice Tyson,

I've looked at that wall for a number of years and always thought to have a look. It sounds like the approach wasn't to bad. Do you figure it's worth more trips? It looks like it could have potential.

[genepires]

open dialogue on the mysterious squire creek area = new times

 

Seems like before slab daddy, words of squire creek were whispers around a campfire. Either due to keeping the secret hidden, fear from the scale of area or fear that the squire creek gods would smite thou.

[colt45]

Looks like a great day out! My wife and I were an Excalibur on Saturday (by the way, did that photo turn out?) and we were amazed at how much rock is in that valley--it's definitely one of the most impressive areas I have been in Washington.

[Tyson.g]

I cannot take credit for clearing the trees. That was the intention, but some other good samaritan beat us to it. The chainsaw never left the truck.

I agree for the need of some weed whacking! That is why I drive a truck with pre scratched paint.

[Tyson.g]

Cool!

Yeah, the picture did turn out,sort of. It is at the maximum zoom on my camera so it is what it is. I would be glad to email to you if you would like.

Tyson