[TR] Mt. Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall 5/21/2011

[rocky_joe]

Trip: Mt. Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall

 

Date: 5/21/2011

 

Trip Report:

My friend Tom and I went up the DK Friday morning via the 1d variation (Oregon High). We had planned to do the 1c variation so we could get on the Wy'east traverse again. We changed plans because of concerns about snow stability. We found a 2-3 inch breakable crust on top of 8-12" of graupel and faceted snow all on top of a good hard layer. As we hit the base of the route right after sunrise (~5:20), we elected to play our cards conservatively and avoid the avi prone slope on the wy'east. The climb is a fantastic introduction to the steeper routes on Hood. We found ~200' of solid water ice with an ~80 deg crux at the top of it all. We simuled the bottom section of the gully to the crux + 1 short pitch to protect the crux. Route might be in another week or two if it keeps getting heat and sun.

 

Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. When we summited there were ~25 people on top with more on the summit ridge. We chose a quick, direct descent through the pearly gates. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline.

 

No pics, sorry. My camera's batteries were dead when I pulled it out to snap some of the crux section.

 

Gear Notes:

6 screws (used 4)

2 pickets (used 1)

50 m half-rope

tools

 

 

Approach Notes:

Full Moon bar & grill (Boring, OR) is closed til 11 June due to a liquor license violation. Couldn't have been more disappointed.

[Fairweather]

Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline.

 

 

 

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon.

[DPS]

I don't need a helmet. I have a hard, hard head.

[rocky_joe]

If you felt my TR was spoiled with 1 sermon why did you feel compelled to add a 2nd. Thanks for the feedback asshole.

[sdizzle25]

So i cant get on hood until June 11th? damn. where you not aware cascade rock is too soft to cause injuries? I suppose a mazama falling on you would hurt pretty bad though.......

[kevbone]

If you felt my TR was spoiled with 1 sermon why did you feel compelled to add a 2nd. Thanks for the feedback asshole.

 

 

[rocky_joe]

probably not til the 12th as the suspension is through the 11th. life's a bitch.

[sdizzle25]

in that case get ready to share a bivy tent with a young man denied the peanut butter couloir for too long

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline.

 

 

 

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon.

 

Hey FW - next time could you do me a favor and tie some knots in the ends of your rope? Mmmkay? Thanks.

[Julian]

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon.

 

Only because far too many people on that route have no fucking clue what they are doing.

 

Everyone who ropes up on the South Side (or anywhere else) without placing pro has read that story about Pete Schoening arresting the fall of 7 guys on K2 and thinks that's standard operating procedure.

Edited May 22, 2011 by Julian

[Fairweather]

Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline.

 

 

 

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon.

 

Hey FW - next time could you do me a favor and tie some knots in the ends of your rope? Mmmkay? Thanks.

 

Exactly. I'm not sure two years of experience gives our young padawan license to lecture anyone. I just want to know if guys like RJ carry a badge so I can identify them and whip out my helmet real quick-like and put it on before I get lectured 'n shit.

 

 

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=862264

 

 

Edited May 22, 2011 by Fairweather

[The Ospray]

Anyways, glad we weren't going up the south side, it was a cluster fuck Friday, as was the summit. Saw some wanker leading a rope team (long roped without pro) not wearing a fucking helmet. To him I said, "No helmet today?" He responded, "nope." "Well...have fun with that." Apparently the Dean Potter commitment to light and fast has caught on at Timberline.

 

 

 

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon.

 

Hey FW - next time could you do me a favor and tie some knots in the ends of your rope? Mmmkay? Thanks.

 

Exactly. I'm not sure two years of experience gives our young padawan license to lecture anyone. I just want to know if guys like RJ carry a badge so I can identify them and whip out my helmet real quick-like and put it on before I get lectured 'n shit.

 

 

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=862264

 

 

 

Amen Fairweather! Amen! :lmao:

[The Ospray]

 

You shoulda bitched at him also for not carrying a whistle! Fuckin n00bz!!

[Ptown_Climber1]

Good trip report....that guy is high. Helmets not standard fare? Really? I wouldn't consider climbing Hood w/o a helmet unless I had a good pair of blue jeans to climb in.

[sdizzle25]

i agree. i understand carhartts are acceptable substitutes for helmets.

[rocky_joe]

Some of you fucking people on this website are just so high on your horse it's unreal. You're really taking time out of your day to rip me apart for being a reasonably (and admittedly) new climber. You don't know anything about me apart from the few TR's I've elected to post here.

 

The party leader was clearly taking some very green climbers through the gates. He was not wearing a helmet in the Pearly Gates in May, on a busy, warm day. Rime was falling everywhere (some quite large pieces) as were pieces of the crust from climbers above. Not wearing a helmet as a group leader seem liked a poor decision/mistake, so I asked.

 

You act as if one sentence defines my attitude as a climber And you post my first TR as a way to prove how much your junior I am; as if you were never new to the sport.

 

Follow your own advice and mind your own fucking business.

 

 

 

[Fairweather]

By your own account, you did a bit more than just "ask" this complete stranger about his sans helmet status. It seems to me that you were a bit high on a horse of your own, hence, my commentary. Normally I wouldn't shit on someone's trip report, but you clearly need to take it down a notch--or two. Climb your heart out, have good times, and don't worry about what you believe other climbers on a well-traveled route are doing or not doing correctly. This good advice might just help to keep you from ending up as fumarole food.

[rocky_joe]

So, you've never seen someone (at which ever crag/mountain) do something you really thought was unsafe and ask them about their decision? Really? This was the first time I've ever said anything to anyone regarding what/how they were climbing. In my few years, I've seen people do some downright stupid stuff, but I've always minded my own business and not made a peep-- surely there was a reason they were doing something different. However, when I saw this guy, whoever he was, leading people up a mountain where rock/ice fall hurts/kills people every year without a helmet, I just asked. I don't need 30-40 years of experience to know that a helmet is worthwhile on any route with that much (or any) shit falling, because I've been on the hill to see people get pretty messed up because a piece of ice hit them.

[fultonville]

Holy crap! Are those Oakley Factory Pilot shades? I used to have a pair of those. Loved them. Fuck the rest of the comments, where can I get another pair of those sunnys?

[rocky_joe]

yeah, they are. but they weren't mine. that pic is from over 2 years ago and they were my room mate's. Haven't a clue, sorry.

[stevetimetravlr]

Always a good idea to wear a helmet thru the pearly gates. No question about that at all. Don't let the sprayloads get ya down, while u were out getting it done they were .........?

[jlawrence10]

Thanks for the report. Saw your lights near the bottom of the chute as I approached Hogsback right around 3:00 or 3:15. Shoulda taken a picture for you.

 

As for the helmet, I wouldn't care and would let someone choose, but if you're climbing on a long rope without any pro it is irresponsible to lead a team without a helmet. One piece of ice knocks you out, you fall past your team and keep going, and take out others below you, next thing you know a Blackhawk is crashing on Hogsback.

 

In other news, did any of the 75 people I passed on the way down Friday morning find a Black Diamond headlamp? It's mine... Thanks!

[chris54]

I love people who talk shit but can't take it. Personly I like when people tell me I am making a bad choice on the mountain. But there is a way to say It respectfully. No helmet today? May not be the best approach. I think I would have told you to fuck off. Your job is to climb the mountain not talk shit.

Edited May 22, 2011 by chris54

[dhrmabum]

I love people who talk shit but can't take it. Personly I like when people tell me I am making a bad choice on the mountain. But there is a way to say It respectfully. No helmet today? May not be the best approach. I think I would have told you to fuck off. Your job is to climb the mountain not talk shit.

 

+1!

[ScaredSilly]

People have been climbing Hood and the rest of the Cascade peaks sans helmets way longer than you or the rest of us on this here spray forum could wipe yer azz. Get over it.

 

 

BTW Not saying that it ain't a good idea but it is a choice. Unless someone is in immediate danger it is best to walk away with yer trap shut. If the person appears to be a beginner the best approach is to ask a question about what their up to. But even then it might not be taken well.