Grand Teton

[Jedfro]

Any protection piece advice for the Owen spalding route? Trying to lighten load.

[genepires]

nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe.

[wfinley]

If you're comfy with easy 5th class you can get by with 3-4 medium cams and 4-5 medium nuts. Unless of course it storms and turns into a verglassed mixed route (which happens fairly often)!

 

 

[layton]

free solo and dulfursitz the rap line

[DPS]

I only remember one technical pitch up a wide, verglassed crack with big ass, stainless steel fixed pitons. At any rate, we had a fairly light rock rack because we were there to do the Black Ice and NW Ice Couloirs rather than hard rock routes.

Edited April 8, 2011 by DPS

[wdietsch]

nuts and hexes. go old skool. Been a while, but I don't remember belaying much on that route. More scrambling and a couple pitches I believe.

 

GP has it right .. cams are over kill for the Spalding, a lot of people don't even bother with them on the Exum.

[chriss]

I took 4 biners and 3 slings, 2 singles and a double.

Partner had a 70 half rope. Doubled it for leads. Also right length for rappel.

[dougd]

A few slings and biners should do it. I think hexes would be dead weight.

 

This route is pretty tame. The weather can be harsh tho... Thunder boomers move in real fast on this range in the afternoons...

 

The double rope rappel was really fun.

 

d

[jlawrence10]

The advice on gear here is sound. Mostly scrambling with just a few belays.

 

The best tip is to save weight and carry just one 60 meter rope. The rappel method outlined here:

 

http://www.summitpost.org/owen-spalding-var-owen-chimney/160588

 

...works great, and isn't as 'tricky' as it sounds. Just go to the far rap station, and keep right (rappeler's or climber's right) as you go down, and there's plenty of rope to get down, untie, and then scramble down.

[lummox]

Snowpack is fat. Piolet and crampons will be useful til like August.