pink Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 ive only been on the second pitch but the way i see it ivan drilled 5 bolts and fixed one pin to gain the same ledge system that i did, not like he gained a whole new system. i'm sure its super fun climbing but i think it was done in bad style, this is my opinion based on a few moderate aid routes that i have attempted. Quote
kevbone Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 ivan drilled 5 bolts We have yet to determine if Ivan drilled anything...... Quote
JosephH Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 Huh? I think we have at the very least established that. Quote
kevbone Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 Huh? I think we have at the very least established that. Have we? Quote
JosephH Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 26 lead bolts and 12 pins for 7 rope lengths, all put in on lead and spaced as far as possible. That would appear to be pretty conclusive unless I'm missing something. And he had my drill for a spell so it could have been with it I suppose - plenty of drills out there. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Its a great route, you guys ought to do in instead of talking yourself out of attempting it, just because you are nervous as sheep. Bahhhhhhhhhh. Quote
JosephH Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Its a great route, you guys ought to do in instead of talking yourself out of attempting it, just because you are nervous as sheep. Bahhhhhhhhhh. Really? With that fixed pro count? In what way is it 'great' or 'classic' as a 2010 aid line? Entertaining, 'fun', something to do in the winter, and retro-aid-because-we-missed-that-era - sure, I'll grant you all of that. But "great" from the perspective of advancing aid or free climbing today or at the cost of the precedent set at Beacon in today's drill-happy world? Nah, you're not going to convince me of that. Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Its a great route, you guys ought to do in instead of talking yourself out of attempting it, just because you are nervous as sheep. Bahhhhhhhhhh. Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 sure it's a beautiful sunny day and you could be owning on the s side right now, but before the bitchfest begins, thought i might remind The Brethern, there is a side that didn't close, one that still even holds some adventure up high if'n you're willing to scare the holy shit out of yourself Damn Ivan. Looks like you initiated the bitchfest. Sadly, the only way to make it stop is to quit responding online. Just stop. You already offered to climb it with Pink, either you go out together and do it or this goes for 20 more fucking stupid assed pages. (I'm excluding Timetravelers posts from that statement) fuck all you whiners and bitchers. i've already climbed the pitch that we are speaking of bill, nice of ivan to invite me climb my pitch with him i basically went left under the roof slash little tree and i'm not really interested in a bolt line variation. i actually did that first pitch without the first bolt and according to jim did another pitch up from there and marc did two pitches above that while i was in yosemite in the fall of 1999. yeah ivan added a steep and i'm sure airy section to my pitch but is it really worth drilling 4 bolts??? i'm guessing ivan used a power drill on this section, im guessing things might have turned out differently had the bolts been put in with a hand drill. bill, find it amusing that you think i'm a whiny little bitch, i can't wait to come to portland and spruce up some of your routes and slap a silly name on it. i look at it this way, all i hear is steve and you whining being that neither of you have any involvement in the topic at hand. i appreciate your passion for beacon but once again you are WAY OFF DUDE!!!! it don't tell you how to raise your kids or your business so don't involve yourself in something you know nothing about. the little guy waving means i'm saying this in a very calm light hearted manor Quote
denalidave Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 and you wind up with weird grudges and vibes. An't that the truth. Speaking of which, I want my locker back you snagged on the ledge party night... Quote
denalidave Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Thanks Dave! BTW, you don't look a day over 55. Keep up the good work... Seriously, I figured you were about the same age as me. Quote
The Ospray Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Hey all so as I've lurked on the boards the past few years and out at Beacon for 15 or so years. I feel like I may as well voice my opinion on this one here. I know I'll get shit for this one and everone will want to see pictures, but hopefully not from Pink, since it turns out we acctually know eachother and have some close mutual friends. Anyways but ya sorry Ivan I've got to agree with Andrew here. I've totally witnessed you beacon guys aid reniassance through the boards here and gotta say am pretty dissapointed in it. It seems as though you guys wanna dumb aid climbing down and make it an everymans game. As I read it on here you guys as aid climbers added bolts to a FREE climb? I mean comeon, I hear plenty about free climbers adding bolts to AID routes, but this just sounds bad and down right makes aid climbing look stupid, silly and as archaic as most people think it is now a days. I aided plenty of free climbs in my day, but never once felt the need to spew about it and make videos for all to see, I always thought it was a little embarrassing. I think you guyse need to take a look at what went on in the late 90's in Yosemite guys like Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner, Bryan Law, Eric George & Steve Gergberding had an aid renniassance of their own, but this was a little differnt. The object was new lines with as low of a hole count as possible. By the sounds of it here you guys placed about 56 bolts and fixed peices in 500' feet. So if this where a 2500' route on elcap that would equate to about 270 holes on a route, any one in Yosemite would consider this an abortion. Plus if you ever left fixed pins on any real aid route they would be gone in a heartbeat. Now albeit this is not Yosemite were talking about but as a bunch of aspiring big wall climbers you guys gotta see it like this eh? Beacons all we got so treat it like its our own El Cap. And also I gotta say it but sorry stevetimetravlr you just sound like an ass when you say its a good route and you have not even climbed it yet. I have not said if its a good or bad route yet so don't attack me, I just see some numbers and some well respected opinions and points of veiw here. Lastly Ivan please don't take this personally, I will still gladly share a beer with you and maybe even hop on some real aid pitches once the time comes to get in the rhthym for my El Cap solo in the fall. Cheers Todd Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 (edited) I am interested in doing some aid on "Stone Soup" this winter! That looks rad!!! No need for hammer or pitons?!? Maybe next week? Not sure if my regular parter is availible or not so anyone else maybe interested? I have some aid experience, Skull Queen in Yosemite, and West Face & East Face of Mokey Face, nothing harder than C2+ but I want to get better to maybe get on Mescalito this year! Rock on! hey cord man, you better jump on it soon if your looking to nab the second ascent. i heard there's a few valley hot shot's eyeing this NW test piece. i'm sure if you're really nice time traveler steve can throw a camera crew together, i heard he's filming peter mortimers next climbing sage Edited February 8, 2011 by pink Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 You guys are full of it. Sprayin about a route none of ya have ever done or even looked at up close, except maybe Pink free climbing part of it low down on the route years ago. I had no contribution to the first ascent, wish i would have, but from what I can see from doing the first 2 pitches it is a proud line and pretty bold, done in winter and adverse conditions. For one thing, its not a free friendly area being the NW face area it is mossy and slimey overall. This is no "aid renaissance" but simply one of the only alternatives at Beacon since the closure kicked in going up in a area where no one ever ventures. I have no desire to free climb the route and I doubt anyone else really does either. Its really bold of you guys to get on here and spray about it and talk smack, but I haven't and doubt I will see any of you on it. Harden the fawk up and get on it and then we can talk or serve yourself up another helping of WEAK SAUCE. Quote
ivan Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 You guys are full of it. Sprayin about a route none of ya have ever done or even looked at up close, except maybe Pink free climbing part of it low down on the route years ago. I had no contribution to the first ascent, wish i would have, but from what I can see from doing the first 2 pitches it is a proud line and pretty bold, done in winter and adverse conditions. For one thing, its not a free friendly area being the NW face area it is mossy and slimey overall. This is no "aid renaissance" but simply one of the only alternatives at Beacon since the closure kicked in going up in a area where no one ever ventures. I have no desire to free climb the route and I doubt anyone else really does either. Its really bold of you guys to get on here and spray about it and talk smack, but I haven't and doubt I will see any of you on it. Harden the fawk up and get on it and then we can talk or serve yourself up another helping of WEAK SAUCE. hey, you just had a bday - shouldn't you be busy nursing a hangover this morning? Quote
billcoe Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 This kind of internet shit talkin ain't good for climbers as a group, even if raging like a 4 year old makes Andrew (or anyone) personally feel good. It probably goes without saying, but it would be nice if some of the totally needless savaging, bitching and whining that goes on online about Beacon and from mostly Beacon climbers would just stop. The management gave us the forum cause this group in particular seemed to always get carried away yelling at each other for no good reason on all kinds of other forums. A while back I had asked Jim Anglin for help and leadership on the keeping the Beacon open thing and he was not interested at all. In fact he specifically wanted to totally avoid all the needless petty little sniping and backbiting this group seems to bring: but in his response turning me down I think he said it best when he said that what we all needed was to take a road trip and climb at a few other areas in the winter and spring instead of just sitting by our computers and bitching about things which really don't matter. This was a leader of men, who's life was lived around collaboration and yet he was not going into this hole. I fully understand Jim A's feelings. This is just sad. Why even bother trying or sharing a damn thing here for any of you? Step up and share it in person sure, but this internet raging stuff is total bullshit. I'm done posting on this thread, it's a bad thing and you dudes have way too many needless bad vibes. Good by! opps, edited to have a picture of the rock in question so you guys can remember what you are all upset about and maybe it will calm you down. LOL! PS, TT Steve, you seem like a righteous dude and that's a damn good point. My wife drug home one of your antique pieces of Chinese furniture from Bend while back (you transferred it to the NW PDX store). My boy and I stuffed a 47" widescreen High def TV in there. Good stuff. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Alrighty now, thanks for the business Bill! and yes Ivan, I did have a birthday and fell asleep on the couch before they cut the cake. So I am fresh as a daisy today. and Jim Anglin was the MAN! What a great dude, who was always out there getting after it, always something positive to say, just a animal. Wise words. He did me a super good turn right before he passed and I never got to say thank you to him. Quote
denalidave Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 I'm getting a good laugh out of this whole saga... Guess I need to get on this Barney Soup thing to see what all the fuss is about. I think Pink has some good points, but he could have spoken up a long time ago when Ivan and crew were putting the line up... You know a there is not a day of climbing for Ivan that is not instantly put up on the forum. Just sayin, this info aint really nothing new... Quote
selkirk Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 You guys are just so precious in your righteous indignation. It gives me warm fuzzy's all over to see the love! Quote
ivan Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 You guys are just so precious in your righteous indignation. It gives me warm fuzzy's all over to see the love! indeed, what asshole put this in spray instead of within the magic force field bubble that contains columbia river gorge craziness? Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 I'm getting a good laugh out of this whole saga... Guess I need to get on this Barney Soup thing to see what all the fuss is about. I think Pink has some good points, but he could have spoken up a long time ago when Ivan and crew were putting the line up... You know a there is not a day of climbing for Ivan that is not instantly put up on the forum. Just sayin, this info aint really nothing new... i was under the impression that ivan had a completely independent line, i talked to him on the phone about it. my beef is on the second pitch, i have not climbed the rest of the route but i did free climb the first pitch of smoke signals and good portions of the second pitch of smoke signals. i didn't realize it was my pitch until i saw the pics that stuff posted of ivan leading up. apparently ivan knew he was on traveled ground and did a bolt variation and called it his own. Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 This kind of internet shit talkin ain't good for climbers as a group, even if raging like a 4 year old makes Andrew (or anyone) personally feel good. It probably goes without saying, but it would be nice if some of the totally needless savaging, bitching and whining that goes on online about Beacon and from mostly Beacon climbers would just stop. The management gave us the forum cause this group in particular seemed to always get carried away yelling at each other for no good reason on all kinds of other forums. I had asked him for help on the keeping the Beacon open thing and he was not interested at all. In fact he wanted to totally avoid all the needless petty little sniping and backbiting this group seems to bring: but in his response turning me down I think Jim Anglin said it best when he suggested that what we all needed was to take a road trip and climb at a few other areas in the winter and spring instead of just sitting by our computers and bitching about things which really don't matter. I fully understand Jim A's feelings. Why even bother trying or sharing a damn thing? Step up and share it in person sure, but this internet raging stuff is total bullshit. Good by! PS, TT Steve, you seem like a righteous dude and that's a damn good point. My wife drug home one of your antique pieces of Chinese furniture from Bend while back (you transferred it to the NW PDX store). My boy and I stuffed a 47" widescreen High def TV in there. Good stuff. Good by???? more empty promises Quote
pink Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 You guys are full of it. Sprayin about a route none of ya have ever done or even looked at up close, except maybe Pink free climbing part of it low down on the route years ago. I had no contribution to the first ascent, wish i would have, but from what I can see from doing the first 2 pitches it is a proud line and pretty bold, done in winter and adverse conditions. For one thing, its not a free friendly area being the NW face area it is mossy and slimey overall. This is no "aid renaissance" but simply one of the only alternatives at Beacon since the closure kicked in going up in a area where no one ever ventures. I have no desire to free climb the route and I doubt anyone else really does either. Its really bold of you guys to get on here and spray about it and talk smack, but I haven't and doubt I will see any of you on it. Harden the fawk up and get on it and then we can talk or serve yourself up another helping of WEAK SAUCE. it's even weaker to call it a great climb having not even climbed it, the north face it great for free climbing. i've free climbed on it, go do "forbidden slab" it's wet slimy and very free climbable. it's a great route. i'm not bagging on any thing past the 3rd pitch cause i have not traveled that section of rock. and yeah!!! i'm pretty bold for defending something i believe in. shame on me for giving a fuck. i'll go stick my head in the sand now Quote
ivan Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 apparently ivan knew he was on traveled ground not true, but feel free to go on thinking it Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Welcome to the Petty Forum. No Pink, the Stone Soup crowd wasn't aware of your amazing first ascent of the...1st pitch...or was it two whole pitches...wait, what was it again? Obviously, everyone's very impressed down here. If this is what middle age looks like for ya, that sucks. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.