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Oregon Ice update


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Today 12/31/2010 Pete (MtnHigh) and I went on ice recon to the Pete's Pile.


Here is our summary:




Right side of Pete's Pile:




Soloable and unprotectable (yet) ice under 30':








Mixed lines:




Left side:








We soloed a bunch of WI3-WI5 stuff that we had to downclimb thanks to the tricky topouts.


MntHigh likes traverses:




While I prefer the free standing pillars with scary finish:







Obligatory shot:









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Nice! Good effort and beta. How was the hoof up there? I'm thinking I might have to take the topout trail and use some top rope anchors until its gets phat but thats me, I'm not so bold.

Was the Schoolroom area in(where the bench is)? Seems like that might be a optimun place with the midpoint anchors, and it has a constant drip even in the summer time.

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Pete's Pile info plus responses to various questions and comments


The area with the belay bench and mid anchors is dry. No ice forms there. The ice climbs are all south of there.



Establishing an anchor on top for most of the ice lines is challenging. Trees on the bench above the wall are more than 200' back except for the far right side of the cliff(pic #1).

There are no anchors above the climbs in the first 5 pics. There are chains above the climb in the middle of pic #6 (labeled left side).


The bench above the cliff is littered with large boulders. Bring long slings to wrap them or you might get lucky with rock pro.


Some of the walls at Pete's including the wall in pic #8 has spring/summer/fall climbing restrictions because of a rare plant that resides there. That's probably why there are few anchors on obvious ice lines.



The pullout for Pete's, located south of the Cooper Spur road on hwy 35 at the south end of 8' high netted rock catchment fence along the east side of the hwy, is blocked in winter by a snow bank from plowing the hwy. Park on the west side of the hwy about a half mile south of the normal pullout. ODOT has a large pullout plowed for the campground and access to trails.



From the normal pullout on the east side of the hwy hike up and left through a steep forest. The cliff above is about a half mile long and parallels the hwy, so it is difficult to miss the crag. In summer the approach is under 15 min.


Just follow the tracks we layed down on Friday. It is not suppose to snow/rain until Wednesday, so our tracks will be there for a few days.


Now I must get back to the Badger game.

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Appreciate the scouting report Pete and Mito! Inspired me to go check it out for myself late today. Followed your steps right on up - thanks! Same as you - soloed several lines up to my comfort level and then down-climbed. Thought there might be several others there after your report but had the place all to myself. Would like to return tomorrow with someone and get some TR laps in. After two aborted attempts to get to Strobach this week, this hit the spot.

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I went out to the Gorge today 1/2/2011 and took some pics of Mist and CrownJewel. I climbed on mist a bit on the left and far right side. there were a few times where big stuff (basket ball size) fell off of the top down onto the climb. I talked to some climbers that were just leaving as I got there. (awesome people) and they said they got at least some 18 CM ice screws in fine with out hitting rock/moss. I was using my short screws when I soloed the left side. kind of cauliflowery but ok. not sure how well the skrews would have held but put some wieght on them and they stayed in for me.


hope to be back out on the 3rd in the AM.









Edited by bozeb
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We climbed Mist Falls yesterday morning - a route on climbers left. Not too bad, we were able to get a couple screws in. Middle and right looked a little thin yesterday morning - and there was some ice fall coming down from above that was hitting the middle and right climbs (and a little bit on the left). Lots of spray with the wind, we got pretty wet. Still can't beat climbing close to home!





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