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telemarker

Leavenworth ice update

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yeah banks lake sorry

 

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=47.84728,-119.117289&num=1&t=h&sll=47.842456,-119.108748&sspn=0.017109,0.044932&ie=UTF8&ll=47.846532,-119.122117&spn=0.008554,0.022466&z=16

 

punchbowl was very thin at bottom, good up top. wet though. trotskys revenge was good at bottom thin and wet at top but all in all it was great. not any big scary deathcicles above either. some small stuff came down but nothing really bad.

Edited by ConorB

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Climbed millenium wall few hours ago. Lower-mid part was still well formed despite the warm temps. Upper part felt rotten and required some excavating. Awesome day!

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Does anyone have a grid/gps location for the millenium walls or be able to tell me if it's actually on the snow lakes trail or on the snow creek wall trail that comes off of it?

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It's on Snow Lakes Trail, I guess just before the turn (fork) towards the snow creek wall. You won't miss it - it'll be 10 yards to the left of the trail.

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We climbed half of the first pitch of hubbahubba. Ran out of 10cm screws. It was only getting thinner so I bailed. The route is surly climbable for others, I just was not confortable.

 

here are some shots of the climb

IMG_08431.JPGIMG_0849.JPG

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yeah would not recommend hubbahuba at the moment. I climbed it on Tue (Dec 28) and ended up mixed/super thin ice at the top.

 

Also, update on Millenium wall conditions aren't too bad, if you're looking for ice should be even better now since we climbed it on wed (Dec 29). okay ice towards bottom, tons of snow above it 'til the tree. Just like Hubbahubba it thins out towards the top.

PC280052.JPG

 

PC290053.JPG

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This is taken on Dec, 29th of White Slab over on Snow Creek.. so if anyone wants to know conditions of that here is a photo from across the creek.

 

PC280049.JPG

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ice update:

careno routes - left maybe, right not in

rainbow - maybe, but not looking that good

Pivotal Moment - not yet

The Drip - almost touching

the pencil - looking good

Drury - looking good.

 

Rain coming on thursday!

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Lots of growing ice in the Icicle. The inversion was pretty strong the last few days and things are looking good. Rainbow routes are A-OK!

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Thanks for the update. I solo tr'd a few laps there tonight, rainbow left side, probably just after you guys left. Definitely looking better!

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Hope someone climbs in Leavenworth today and updates us on conditions. I'm trying to choose between ski touring on the west side or ice on the east side. Is Rainbow or Pencil in? Has Hubba thickened up since last week?

Thanks

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I'm curious as well as to what the ice conditions are. I want to go ice climbing!

 

Josh Lewis now ice climbs? When did this start?!!!?

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coming_soon.jpg

 

Well you didn't actually think I would allow myself to not do something so exciting did you? Although I have yet to do this, I plan on it as soon as my first chance pops up. I own my own ice tools and such (as seen in the photo) and have someone who is willing to teach me how. I'm not doing pull ups and such at home for nothing. For the longest time liability was my mile stone that held me from this. Now that there is no longer any liability, now all I gotta do is figure out a way to get there and I'm set.

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Well you didn't actually think I would allow myself to not do something so exciting did you?

 

I would expect nothing less! heard rainbow falls and some millenium climbs are in. Should be cold next week. Pandome and also some stuff out at alpental was in a little before the last warm up, dont know now. Get after it Josh! Looking forward to pictures and an epic story like always!!!

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Up at 5am and off to find ice today around the I-90 and Leavenworth areas.

 

After hitting the Alpental area we found that Aplental 1-4 were all wet and somewhat non-existent. The colder weekend temperatures didn't do much here.

 

So we drove to Leavenworth and spotted some activity in the Icicle with the following to report:

 

>> Hubba Hubba - 2 parties spotted from the road, looked clean and fairly well formed

 

>> Rat Creek Valley - climbs were not spotted and so assumed not in

 

>> Dog Dome - spotted a route that looked good and fairly fat.

 

>> Icicle Buttress - very thin verglas and a party of 2 bailing

 

>> Pivotal Moment - trying but not quite there

 

>> Rainbow Falls - a party TR'ing the left which looked good but the right side looked wet and thinner

 

>> Careno - apparently quite yet - see next post

 

>> The Smear - formed fairly well

 

>> The Silver Tongue - no

 

The next two routes provide some confusion between the guide's description and what we were observing. Plastic Fantastic Lover (PFL) is claimed to be up and right of Comic Book Hero (CBH). PFL is described as 3 short pillars and is actually up and left of CBH. From our vantage the 3 short pillars of CBH were formed but PFL was not. Another route down and right of CBH also looked to be available. See pics.

 

>> Plastic Fantastic Lover - not formed

 

>> Comic Book Hero - potential looks good

 

>> Unnamed - looked ok

 

>> The Drip - oh I think very much so

 

With the light slowly fading we spotted some ice just one gully east of The Drip. We stepped out to investigate and believe we might have snagged a FA of what we are calling Nothing Really. As in 'How was ice climbing this weekend? What did you guys climb?'

 

**** Nothing Really, WI2+, 2 Pitches ****

Park at the Lake Jollanda Dam and walk 2/10ths of a mile east to the 1st gully east of The Drip. P1 - follow the low angled ramp of ice up to a bulge and on to a single large fir tree belay in the middle of the gully. ~110ft. P2 - ascend a ribbon of ice behind the tree to slabs and rolling steps to a final steeper 25' section of ice. Tree belay. ~110ft.

 

And now the goods :)

 

Untitled52.JPG

Alpental Falls (Aka Alpental 1) - the dark streaks are running water

 

Untitled64.JPG

Alpental 2-4

 

 

Untitled72.JPG

Careno Left & Right

 

Untitled92.JPG

Rainbow Right

 

Untitled113.JPG

Rainbow Left - climber almost topping out

 

Untitled122.JPG

Hubba Hubba - 4 climbers on route

 

Untitled152.JPG

Icicle Buttress

 

Untitled173.JPG

Dog Dome Route

 

 

Untitled221.JPG

The Smear

 

Untitled241.JPG

Comic Book Hero

 

Untitled251.JPG

Unnamed

 

Route_Locations.jpg

Panoramic showing CBH in blue and Unnamed in red relative locations, PFL is up and left of CBH but not formed in this photo

 

Untitled34.JPG

Did I mention The Drip was in?

 

Untitled39.JPG

Crazy kayakers going by...

 

Untitled42.JPG

Nothing Really - P1

 

Untitled43.JPG

Nothing Really - P2

 

Untitled47.JPG

Did I mention it was a late evening :)

Edited by MrGecko

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Both Rainbow Left and Right and Careno Left are climbable and leadable as of 01/09/10.

 

Telemarker on the Careno Left:

5342644854_b3fe0d2674_b.jpg

 

5342037465_e748dea13a_b.jpg

 

 

Spionin on the Rainbow Left:

5342650000_13275b99e4_b.jpg

 

 

Tanstaafl on the Rainbow Right:

5342651174_1c6777b787_b.jpg

 

 

Myself on the Rainbow Right:

5342042111_1f127ebd7a_b.jpg

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Both Rainbow Left and Right and Careno Left are climbable and leadable as of 01/09/10.

 

Telemarker on the Careno Left:

5342644854_b3fe0d2674_b.jpg

 

Butchered...ugh!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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