robpatterson5 Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 So my BD Blizzard is on its last legs and I've been looking for a replacement for some time. Seems like there are a few options and I thought I would ask around what people like? I'm looking for one harness for everything, ice, trad, sport, whatever mountains/skiing/glacier travel I do, ect - although the BD Colouir does look nice for slogs/skiing. The BD replacement for the Blizzard looks nice, as does the Xenos - I'm not sure if the Xenos is worth the extra cost though, and the Arcteryx 350a beats both of the BD harnesses on weight/bulk... That said I'm not sure about the durability and have heard that the ArcTeryx harnesses do not carry a bunch of trad gear well. What are people using, what do you recommend? I'm looking for something with 4ish gear loops, clipper slots and a haul loop, and leaning towards the BD replacement for the Blizzard b/c of price - still the arcteryx is tempting, not least b/c it packs down so small - to be honest its nice for packing and nice for going to the gym mid-week Any recommendations? Quote
kevino Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I've had the arc'teryx 350a harness for about two years now. I purchased it on sale, which was my way of justifying the price - that and using student loans. I use it as my only harness, so its been ice climbing, rock climbing (sport and trad), alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. It is awesome. I have had no problem with durability, happy with its comfort and packability. I have noticed when I load up a large rack (think >#4 camalot) the harness can use a tightening, but its not excessive. My only piece of advice would be to use the petzl caritool with the arc teryx harness, rather than the BD style. Good luck. Quote
Coldfinger Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I've got a Petzl Hirundos I picked up cheap and it's really pretty sweet, very small in the pack and pretty darn comfortable. Great gear loops. Quote
RafalA Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I've got a Petzl Adjama and it's been great all around: comfortable for hanging around on sport, sheds snow on alpine, two clipper slots for screw racking on ice and big gear loops for big racks. No haul loop on mine though. A buddy has the Arcteryx and his one complaint is that the ice-clipper slots are not placed ideally, especially the third one. I think my next harness will be the Xenos - I'd like to have four clipper slots (two for screws, two for tools) - and that harness has six. Quote
Nitrox Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I have an Adjama that I've been using for the last six months. Its light weight and fits well. The leg loops don't crush my balls like my last BD harness (Momentum AL). However, the Petzl doesn't pack down very small because of how they sew the leg loops. If I were buying the same harness today I'd buy the Sama because as it turns out my adjusted leg loops are set the same size and its cheaper. My buddy has the Xenos and likes it. But, if I were spending over $100 on a harness I'd probably look closer at the X350a. I couldn't justify the price which is why I didn't buy one even though the Arcteryx fit the best and had the best features for my use. Quote
ColinB Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I have an Adjama that I've been using for the last six months. Its light weight and fits well. The leg loops don't crush my balls like my last BD harness (Momentum AL). However, the Petzl doesn't pack down very small because of how they sew the leg loops. If I were buying the same harness today I'd buy the Sama because as it turns out my adjusted leg loops are set the same size and its cheaper. My buddy has the Xenos and likes it. But, if I were spending over $100 on a harness I'd probably look closer at the X350a. I couldn't justify the price which is why I didn't buy one even though the Arcteryx fit the best and had the best features for my use. I really like the Sama for rock or ice cragging and found its way more comfortable than expected. Not being able to drop trow in it makes it a no-go for alpine stuff, but I found the CAMP Air CR for that and its half the price as that dead bird stuff. Plus its way more technical of a piece too (back gear loops fold down under a pack, etc) Quote
Nitrox Posted December 4, 2010 Posted December 4, 2010 I have an Adjama that I've been using for the last six months. Its light weight and fits well. The leg loops don't crush my balls like my last BD harness (Momentum AL). However, the Petzl doesn't pack down very small because of how they sew the leg loops. If I were buying the same harness today I'd buy the Sama because as it turns out my adjusted leg loops are set the same size and its cheaper. My buddy has the Xenos and likes it. But, if I were spending over $100 on a harness I'd probably look closer at the X350a. I couldn't justify the price which is why I didn't buy one even though the Arcteryx fit the best and had the best features for my use. I really like the Sama for rock or ice cragging and found its way more comfortable than expected. Not being able to drop trow in it makes it a no-go for alpine stuff, but I found the CAMP Air CR for that and its half the price as that dead bird stuff. Plus its way more technical of a piece too (back gear loops fold down under a pack, etc) Why can't you drop trow in the Sama? Quote
robpatterson5 Posted December 4, 2010 Author Posted December 4, 2010 Thanks all, think if I was just getting it for alpine I'd grab the really light petzl harness, looking for more of a all rounder - anyone know how small the Xenos folds down? I just heard from the arcteryx rep that the 350a is not going to be changed this spring, which is too bad - I had hoped for another clipper slot and a tag loop Quote
trainwreck Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 The 350a is hands down the best harness I've ever used. Quote
robpatterson5 Posted December 5, 2010 Author Posted December 5, 2010 Thanks all, sounds like the 350 might be the ticket - anyone have experience adding a 6in quickdraw around the waist loop as a haul loop? Quote
bearbreeder Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 buy the dead bird 350a from mec/rei ... that way when the drop seat and haul loop wear out you wont need to ship it back ... ive swapped out my 350a twice Quote
wdietsch Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 Thanks all, sounds like the 350 might be the ticket - anyone have experience adding a 6in quickdraw around the waist loop as a haul loop? save yourself some time and a lot of $ Camp Quartz CR3 Quote
divnamite Posted December 5, 2010 Posted December 5, 2010 For that price, why not just get BD Aspect and Couloir. Use Aspect for any technical stuff, Coulior for snow and easy stuff. Quote
robpatterson5 Posted December 5, 2010 Author Posted December 5, 2010 honestly thats what Ièm thinking - Ièd also like to know what about the Xenos makes it so much better then the aspect lol leaning towards the arcteryx béc I dont always do easy stuff and just like the packability, nice for after work, also lets me get by with a smaller pack and there is less wearing the harness on the approch. Probaly will get the Aspect if the 350 doesnt go on sale soon Quote
Julian Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Lots of harnesses on sale (including most BD and Dead Bird) at Backcountrygear.com. Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 pretty psyched on my new quartz CR3, but still havent used it enough for a full report. It was on sale pretty cheap at REI. Quote
Nitrox Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Does the CR3 have slots for ice clippers? Quote
G-spotter Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 buy the dead bird 350a from mec/rei ... that way when the drop seat and haul loop wear out you wont need to ship it back ... ive swapped out my 350a twice that sounds like you need better technique Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 Does the CR3 have slots for ice clippers? 2 slots Quote
bearbreeder Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 that sounds like you need better technique sounds like my BD is more durable ... im not the only one with this issue ... Quote
OlympicMtnBoy Posted December 6, 2010 Posted December 6, 2010 I've had good luck with my Peztl Adjama but I never really use the adjustable leg loops either so might replace it with a Sama. I've used it for cragging, ice, alpine, and the gym. It's not quite cushy enough for aid and I use an CAMP XLH 95 ultralight for slogs and ski stuff. I hung out in the Arcteryx ones a couple of times and found them not to be as comfy as my Petzl, might just be personal taste, would trade comfort for packability if the weight is pretty close. Make sure you go somewhere to try a harness on and see how it feel for you to hang in. I have heard good things about the CAMP CR3 too. Quote
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