Crillz Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 Anybody do this on their own? I've got a 70cm that I want to chop down to 50cm. Seams easy enough: Removing/ reinstalling the spike is the part that I'm most worried about. I think I want to do this to a BD Raven Pro - is the spike just tightly fit and glued in? I don't see any rivet or screw. Quote
DPS Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 (edited) There was a post here from a fellow that shortened a BD X-15 BRS to create an alpine wall hammer. He had to use a heat gun to melt the glue holding the spike in as I recall. Edit: found the post: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/913446/New_BD_Alpine_Hammer#Post913446 Edited October 28, 2010 by danielpatricksmith Quote
fern Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 I chopped my Raven Pro. Couldn't get the spike out with all kinds of blow torch and hacksaw and chisel trickery. I ended up just cutting the shaft on a miter and calling it good. Sometime I'll get around to installing a plug to stop the snow ramming up the shaft, but otherwise I am happy with it with no spike insert. I only use it on snow/ice so it is wearing well. But if it dulls I will just slice a 1/8" off on the saw again. Quote
robpatterson5 Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 any idea how high the spike plug goes up the shaft on the Ravens? I'd like to attach a slider to mine but need to put some stopper screws into the base. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 28, 2010 Posted October 28, 2010 Just use some expanding foam from the can to plug the shaft, and if you are real particular you can seal the foam itself with epoxy or polyester resin. Quote
threeladsdad Posted November 27, 2010 Posted November 27, 2010 I "shortened" a cassin superflash ax about 15 years ago, cutting it down from 65 to around 55cm. I reset the spike with a decent epoxy and ground down the head to make it more comfortable to drive in to the snow. Creatively modifying your gear in the garage is part of the fine tradition of alpine climbing. After all didn't chouinard make pitons with a portable forge out the back of his van? Go for it. Quote
mountainmandoug Posted November 29, 2010 Posted November 29, 2010 I shortend my Raven Pro by finding a shorter one at Second Ascent and selling them my long one. I guess I'm lazy. Quote
genepires Posted December 1, 2010 Posted December 1, 2010 if it is just glued in, maybe some heat would loosen the hold. (campstove?) Then some dynamic forces could get it out. Maybe a funkness device clipped to the spike hole. To cover my ass, safety is a major concern with the possibility of flying sharp stuff. So have things locked down (axe in a vice) and area safed off. Maybe even wear personal protective equipment. maybe a better idea is to just buy a short axe. I broke the spike off of my long-ish ice tool a long time ago doing something foolish. Was able to cut the shaft square and re-glue the spike in. Quote
YakCLimber78 Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 I know this may be a bit late in the conversation, but I shortened my old Mountain Technologies axe from 80cm down to about 63cm about 15 years ago. I cut the axe to length first then drilled-out the spike rivet. After I 'persuaded' the spike out with a vice and a hammer, I epoxied the spike plug back in and re-rivetted the end. I have had absolutely no issues with it since. Quote
Autoxfil Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 If you didn't do it yet I'll swap you for my 60cm Pro. Quote
kurthicks Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 I've seen a picture of a shortened Raven Pro online on some Canadian forum. It was 38cm to fit in a Bullet pack. The spike was reinstalled. The guy who did it was Janez Ales. Perhaps you could email him. Quote
Crillz Posted January 3, 2011 Author Posted January 3, 2011 I did the modification. It was pretty simple. Cutting the shaft was a no-brainer and went pretty easy with a hacksaw. I fired up a campstove to try and cook the spike out of the bottom. This went well too. Do it outside because it smells. After a minute or so, the existing epoxy got hot enough to fail and started to blacken and get brittle. I levered the bastard out with a hammer (it tore the aluminum - got week from being hot), but the spike came out easy with no dammage. Epoxied it into the shortened shaft and done. Quote
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