[TR] Index Chimney Spectacular - Index Chimneys 10/18/2010

[summitchaserCJB]

Trip: Index Chimney Spectacular - Index Chimneys

 

Date: 10/18/2010

 

Trip Report:

So Mark and I did a number of routes at Index, and I was thinking today that 4 out of the 6 had some sort of chimney or off-width which is weird for Index and was a complete coincidence except for the fact that I like them.

So we warmed up in low 40 degree temps on Sagittarius. Nice little warm up. Mark wasn't feeling it so I cleaned on rap. Then we went searching for Private Idaho. I had been there before but we ended up at the top of Lookout Point, which was interesting in and of itself. We descended and found Hag Crag by accident. We could see Private Idaho but were lured into Hag Crag Crack a dirty 5.7 with a cool chimney feature. Mark tried but ran out of the right size of gear so I fired her off. Definitely dirty and only recommended for the adventurous. On rappel we noticed a sport line that looked pretty clean. Mark fired it off on top rope. I wanted to lead it, but the line is really weird. It basically shares a bolt with a 5.11d instead of following the obvious line. I wasn't feeling it so we moved on.

We were going to go straight to Magic Fern but saw Battered Sandwich, a sweet off-width to chimney and had to send it. It was sweet and I will go back and do it again. Then it was time for Magic Fern, which went great. Then back to Senior Citizens in Space.

Incredible climbing and weather. But dang I'm sore today.

Sorry no pics.

Here's an old one.

[img:left]http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_67D5eDoFD0U/S_tcghIZD3I/AAAAAAAAAEE/JKIFbAahZvw/s1600/IMG_4230_edited-1.jpg[/img]

[kukuzka1]

those pics show index at its finest, steep granite!

[rocketparrotlet]

That was a fun day! And yeah, I'm pretty sore myself. I am going back to the Hag Crag slab (End Run it's called) again for sure.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Sounds like a good day. I liked Battered Sandwich as well. The last pitch of Rattletale is a fun stemming chimney too, go check that one out next time you are on that side.

 

Anyone think of any other good chimneys out there?

[summitchaserCJB]

Yes Rattletale is good.

[DRep]

There is a wall past Rattletale that has a 3 pitch broken chimney on it (5.10. It was put up about 4 years ago. Go get it.

[DRep]

Or the Stamper-Holland in the quarry.

[Sherri]

 

Anyone think of any other good chimneys out there?

 

Happy Puppy(5.9) is a fun one with a handcrack finish. It's on the Trap Balls Wall, I believe(uphill and to the right after crossing the stream before Toxic Shock).

[ryanb]

There is that giant black chimney behind the great northern slab and defoliator (above and to the right of the GNS above breakfast of champions) has some chimneying particularly if you continue up to the top of the wall.

 

I seem to remember some intriguing looking chimney called the flu on the mid wall but we never did it.

 

If we include grovely flares then we get to add a number of other lower wall classics, dr sniff, p3 japanese gardens, tatoosh.

 

There are also a number of dirty chimneys on the upper wall.

[Crillz]

Or that squeeze on the left side of the final pitch of Rattletale.

 

It needs a cleaning, but....

[stevetimetravlr]

you haven't lived until you've led that second pitch chimney of Town Crier when its wet. That'll get your blood boiling.

[summitchaserCJB]

What's that like?

[stevetimetravlr]

The chimney is pretty casual and nice when its dry. Takes ya right up to the big bivy ledge. A worthy 2 pitch 5.9 jaunt on the upper Town wall if you don't feel like continuing up the aid climbing.

[Teh Phuzzy]

Wishing there was some granite near PDX...

 

Looks real nice

[rocketparrotlet]

What's the offwidth/squeeze chimney directly left of Battered Sandwich?

[summitchaserCJB]

It's not really a squeeze chimney. Just offwidth.