Lodestone Posted October 18, 2010 Posted October 18, 2010 Trip:Coethedral Date: 10/17/2010 Trip Report: Josh G and I went out to Coethedral for the day with the hopes of adding a direct variation for the first pitch of Bewitched. We started by going up P1 of the standard version of Bewitched. I threw some SS quick-links and rap rings on this intermediate anchor. I hope that’s OK with you Bill(?). We were then able to TR Bewitched Direct. There was a bit more loose rock in the direct section than I had remembered. It got a pretty thorough shakedown and should be fairly solid now. Maybe still PG 13 rated. There’s a bit of a shelter that the belayer can duck into to dodge any errant rocks. Anyway, the direct route follows the Bewitched spine with the crux being a jug covered bulge 15’ below the anchor; instead of heading right after the seventh bolt, keep going, clipping four more bolts before hitting the P1 anchor. Couple knuckleheads. Me after leading Bewitched Direct. Most of P1. Another climber tried it out today too. Next we checked out Coecoenut Bridge. Very fun and unique route. Josh about to come through the hole in the rock on Coecoenut Bridge. Lastly we got on the Lava Flow (no pictures). We were running out of time so I tried to make this a half-pitch climb. I ended up running off to the left and used the first pitch anchor to Trench Warfare. There ended up being a fare amount of rope drag because of this. Not a very good way to do this route. Chad Quote
Plaidman Posted October 18, 2010 Posted October 18, 2010 Nicely done dudes. Glad folks are getting out there and getting it done. Quote
billcoe Posted October 18, 2010 Posted October 18, 2010 (edited) AWESOME! Glad to see you lads getting it done! Hey, that stuff if steeper than you pic shows, you got to line the camera up so the trees are vertical and not at an angle to show how steep it is. Like tip it to the left 20 degrees. Something like this. Nice to see folks on that stuff! Righteous, you need to get in gear to get some routes in there before the weather closes it down and it's too cold to put in new routes and Tim puts it in the guidebook. Edited for the Hound! Edited October 18, 2010 by billcoe Quote
powderhound Posted October 18, 2010 Posted October 18, 2010 Be interesting to see what the ice climbers can find up there this winter. shhhhhh...... Quote
LostCamKenny Posted October 19, 2010 Posted October 19, 2010 Be interesting to see what the ice climbers can find up there this winter. shhhhhh...... too late, word's out Quote
Corduroy Man Posted October 27, 2010 Posted October 27, 2010 Awsome! This place looks sweet! Talked to someone about it at the gym but they had not been their either, is it too late to climb out there this year? Anyone looking for a partner, mine moved away for the winter so I'm itchen to get out! Rock on! Quote
Lodestone Posted October 27, 2010 Author Posted October 27, 2010 Awsome! This place looks sweet! Talked to someone about it at the gym but they had not been their either, is it too late to climb out there this year? Anyone looking for a partner, mine moved away for the winter so I'm itchen to get out! Rock on! If you're talking about rock climbing, I doubt there's going to be a dry day out there again this season. But if we get a nice weekend, I'll go out there with you. Chad Quote
billcoe Posted October 27, 2010 Posted October 27, 2010 If you get 2 clear days in a row consider going and putting up a new route up the front face of the Steeple. 250-280' of unrelenting knobiliciousness. Someday there will be 13-20 routes on that thing whereas right now there is but a single, easy one. The rock is noticeably harder and less friable as well. The top: knobiliciousness...route name? hmmmmm....... Quote
hanman Posted October 27, 2010 Posted October 27, 2010 Hey Bill- Looks like you need to get up here to Big 4 to take advantage of the cobblishesness. Most of these actually stay put M. Hanna Quote
The Ospray Posted December 23, 2010 Posted December 23, 2010 Checked this place out the end of October. Don't remember the exact routes that we climbed. LOTS of loose rock but TONs of bolts makes this place worth checking out. I think one of the routes may have had 30 bolts in 45-50 meters!!!! Mostly a 5.8 bolt ladder. So you don't have to be a choss master to get to sample something a little differnt. I give mega props to who ever equipped all of those route because thats A LOT of money in bolts and hangers and I'm sure dubious amounts of cleaning!!! But any of you ethically minded folk will probably want to steer clear of this one. 2.5 out of 5 stars. The setting and the adventure all make it worthwhile, but the somewhat grid bolted nature and crap rock somewhat detract from the area. I think we did your route Lodestone. Nice job! Quote
Corduroy Man Posted February 6, 2011 Posted February 6, 2011 Hey all! Does any one know if the Conethedral is clear of snow?? Seems like a lot of this years snow pack has melted and it looks sunny next week so just wondering if anyones been up yet? Also I might be in need of a partner if any one wants to check it out? Got all the beta from Climb Max so I am ready to roll! Whats up Portland climbers?!?!?! Rock on! Quote
Corduroy Man Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 Any one up for tyin to hit up the Conetheadral this week? Looks sunny?!?! Send me a personal message! Also interested in "Stone Soup" on Beacon for some aid. Rock on! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.