Mixed training crags?

[chris]

Hey team,

In four weeks I'm finally moving back to Seattle after a long "sabatical" down in California. When I left, I knew of two crags available for mixed training. Is there anywhere new? I'm really wondering if there's a new wall amongst the Exits that it might be ok to scratch up in the not-ice-season.

Way excited to be coming home - see you soon!!

Chris

[jpark42]

There are four dry tooling areas that I'm familiar with. There is one at Exit 38 near the trail, one off of 156 outside of Issaquah, a smaller crag with over hanging stuff at Alpental, and a small one near Mt. Baker. Help

[Alex]

I'll give you two answers:

1) the crags jpark42 mentions are specifically developed for mixed scratching around. I like the SR900 crag outside of Issaquah best as its the closest and actually has some of the best rock, and I was the one who installed all the bolts to correct tension so I know it's bomber.

 

2) Most people who are serious about mixed and are Jonesing end up going to Banff for a long weekend starting mid-October through Thanksgiving.

 

[DPS]

Chris,

 

Welcome back. We will have to get together when I am feeling a little better.

 

Dan

[chris]

Dan - definitely have to get together. Hope everything is ok.

 

Alex & JPark - thanks, that was exactly the information I was hoping for.

[bigwallpete]

where is the Mt. Baker spot?

[Farrgo]

Right next to Pan Dome Falls... ~10 min walk.

 

Anybody know if the Rap Wall is overhanging enough to merit a rainy day session? On that note, anybody interested in getting on those routes this fall... big plans for the winter.

[jpark42]

Most of the stuff at SR900 and at Exit 38 are pretty slabby with small vertical moves. If you are looking for overhanging, I'd check out the stuff Roj put up at Alpental.

[Alex]

@Farrgo - Its overhanging enough, but the rock is quite downward sloping so without a bit of ice coating plastering the walls (ie if you are doing pure drytooling) it's only mediochre climbing.

[Edlinger]

Sadly both the SR 900 and the Exit 38 rigs suck really bad for mixed training and aren't even worth the drive from even Seattle.

[summitchaserCJB]

oh...

[Alex]

I guess that's all opinion, as I and many of my friends have had fun at SR900 for sure.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Depends what you are training for I guess, if you want to work on your M-superhard overhanging figure 4s and 9s then yeah, the E38 and 900 crags suck. But if you want to work on the sort of stuff you'll find in the alpine or otherwise "easier" mixed climbs that don't go beyond vertical, then I've found the local drytool options useful if not stellar. A good place to go in the rain too (and get wet).

[Vernman23]

A good place to go in the rain too (and get wet).

 

Was there in the rain today. Any more beta on the Mt. Baker area (not sure where the mixed place is at) or anywhere known that is closer to Bellingham?

 

Thanks

[genepires]

keep your eye open for any road cut that is on a rarely traveled road. (like a logging road for example) Find a super strong tree for a TR anchor and have the belayer anchored and away from base of the climb in case rock comes peeling off.

 

It doesn't have to be pretty to be mixed climbable. In fact, the uglier the rock, the better it is.

[lancegranite]

I'm no ice climber, but I've often looked at those road cuts a couple miles up the Icicle as possible mixed training areas. A little close to the road, but it might fit the bill for you winter climber types.