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Airyourmomma

Beta for Baker car to car

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Then again- it might not matter. What do you need to know- cause it's doable. Couple hours is conservative estimate to the snow for a reasonably fit dude. If you're doing the North ridge give yourself 9 hours to summit from there, at least. The descent is easy.

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I am planning on trying Baker car to car next weekend, any beta would be great!

 

The car-to-car strat:

 

1. Drive the car to the trailhead.

2. Leave lots of valuables in the car, tell me where you'll hide the keys

3. Go climb

4. Return to car

5. Find valuables missing, blame it on the local meth heads.

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It'll be my first car to car so whatever's the most straight forward is probably best. Did Rainier last weekend (Emmons) and Adams (Adams Glacier) the weekend before that.

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Andrew - it was nice running into you guys on Adams two weeks.

 

Baker c-to-c is a way to go. For the dog route (Easton) last year, it took me 15 hrs and my ass is probably the slowest on this forum.

 

Also we had to be creative looping around the crevasses which should be much more straightforward this year and save you some time.

 

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Ya I think if you are in shape for Rainier you probably will be disappointed if you don't do it in a day. Just what I felt when we got to basecamp for the North Ridge, ate dinner, and said screw it lets just go for it.

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Beta for a car-to-car... hmmm...

 

Leave your sleeping bag, stove, and tent behind.

Finish that day.

The early bird gets the worm.

Leave the rope (or at least take a short one) behind - if you see a hole just don't step in it.

Don't take too much water from the car, you can usually find a trickle higher up on route to refuel.

Save weight on food, eat marmots.

Coleman-Deming or Easton will be as technical and as fun. IMO the views from the CD are better.

Do it now before the days get shorter.

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climb the coleman-deming. it's faster than the easton.

And more scenic (I've done both Easton and CD car to car), did this several times. Slept at trailhead, took light gear, two waterbottles and fill as you go up. Recommend light rope and glacier gear.

TTT

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climb the coleman-deming. it's faster than the easton.

And more scenic (I've done both Easton and CD car to car), did this several times. Slept at trailhead, took light gear, two waterbottles and fill as you go up. Recommend light rope and glacier gear.

TTT

 

 

What time did you head out from the car?

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I think people usually try to summit between 6 and 9am, which gives you frozen conditions on the way up and softer conditions on the way down without post holing (which isn't much of a concern at this time of year). Typical times on the Coleman Deming should be:

 

Car to 6000 ft camp - 2 to 3 hours

6000 ft camp to 9000 ft Saddle - 2 to 3 hours

Saddle to Summit - 1 to 2 hours

 

 

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CD c2c, mid July, left car at 12am, we were the 2nd team on the summit

Easton c2c, early July, left car at 1030pm, we were the 1st team on the summit

 

I like to leave early so there are as few climbers as possible ahead of me on the roman wall.

 

 

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Thanks for all the intel. We did it by leaving the car around 1:00am, summited about 7:50, lounged and made breakfast until about 9, back to the car about 1:30. I think our exact round trip including lounging and talking to folks (we saw probably 50+ people on their way in to summit Sunday morning) was 12 hours, 26 minutes. No blazing speed but a fun trip to be sure.

Edited by Airyourmomma

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