[TR] North Buttress (IV, 5.10), Bear Mtn - 7/31/2010

[Steph_Abegg]

Trip: North Buttress (IV, 5.10), Bear Mtn

 

Date: 7/31/2010

 

Trip Report:

The 2000-ft steep north face of Bear has some of the best and most intimidating alpine rock climbing in the Cascades. Better yet, getting there requires a passport and a grueling bushwhack. This last weekend, Aaron Clifford and I climbed the classic north buttress (IV, 5.10). The climbing was some of the best we've encountered in the alpine areas of the Cascades.

 

As usual, I've posted a full TR on my website. This TR has a pitch-by-pitch description and photos of the climb. Check it out at:

http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear'>http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear

 

Here are some photos:

 

Link to larger version of photo overlay.

 

Again, a link to my full TR on my website:

http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear

Edited August 2, 2010 by Steph_Abegg

[goatboy]

Outstanding!

[wbk]

nice work you two! way to get after it.

 

 

Looking mighty handsome there Aaron!

[JoshK]

Nice job, that looks excellent! Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'(

[Steph_Abegg]

Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'(

If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=)

[JoshK]

Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'(

If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=)

 

Yeah we looked at going in "the long way" but schedules didn't allow for all that extra hiking. (though that might just be my excuse for being lazy...)

[ivan]

Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'(

If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=)

 

Yeah we looked at going in "the long way" but schedules didn't allow for all that extra hiking. (though that might just be my excuse for being lazy...)

the long way holds an unacceptably high risk of running out of wine n' smokes along the way

 

fortunately the path to our criminal rehabilation only takes 5-10 years

[JoshK]

fortunately the path to our criminal rehabilation only takes 5-10 years

 

I wonder if I force myself to rock bottom sooner I could speed up the Canuckistan rehab program.

[stevetimetravlr]

Nice photos~!

[John Frieh]

Very nice! Fully agree this route is one of the best in the cascades *even if* you factor in the approach.

 

Maybe I missed it but did you two do the 5.10 twin cracks up higher or did you take the right hand option?

[Steph_Abegg]

Maybe I missed it but did you two do the 5.10 twin cracks up higher or did you take the right hand option?

These them? Fun pitch.

[mountainsloth]

Been dreaming about that buttress for a while... thanks as always for the beautiful photos!

[Ed_Hobbick]

Hello Steph,

 

Something to consider on your overlay would be to add Mark Fielding to the route that you have marked "Becky Route". I know Mark and believe that he led the crux on the first ascent. He was AWOL from the ARMY at the time, he turned himself in after completing this climb. He said that the ARMY was "really pissed" when he got back. He said he spent A LOT of time filling sandbags during his time in Vietnam. I have his phone number if you want it.

[mattp]

I love this picture:

 

I like all the pictures, but this one shows a meat hook bolt hanger, similar to what I removed and replaced in Darrington some years ago. I bet these were installed by the same climber.

 

Thanks, as always, for posting fun stuff here on cc.com.

 

 

[pink]

I love this picture:

 

I like all the pictures, but this one shows a meat hook bolt hanger, similar to what I removed and replaced in Darrington some years ago. I bet these were installed by the same climber.

 

Thanks, as always, for posting fun stuff here on cc.com.

 

 

bomber!!

[Steph_Abegg]

Hello Steph,

 

Something to consider on your overlay would be to add Mark Fielding to the route that you have marked "Becky Route". I know Mark and believe that he led the crux on the first ascent. He was AWOL from the ARMY at the time, he turned himself in after completing this climb. He said that the ARMY was "really pissed" when he got back. He said he spent A LOT of time filling sandbags during his time in Vietnam. I have his phone number if you want it.

 

Ed,

Thanks for the tidbit of interesting info, I like knowing the history of the route. I'll add some of the history to my TR on my website (probably won't update the uploaded topo though).

Thanks!

[LostCamKenny]

Nice job, that looks excellent! Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'(

ha ha, ivan told me all bout that - i couldn't stop laughing, 'specially when he got to the part about you guys turning around and having to go back thru US customs w/ dawgs everywhere n shit...

[denalidave]

Very nice Steph, as usual. Love the night photos.