Steph_Abegg Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) Trip: North Buttress (IV, 5.10), Bear Mtn Date: 7/31/2010 Trip Report: The 2000-ft steep north face of Bear has some of the best and most intimidating alpine rock climbing in the Cascades. Better yet, getting there requires a passport and a grueling bushwhack. This last weekend, Aaron Clifford and I climbed the classic north buttress (IV, 5.10). The climbing was some of the best we've encountered in the alpine areas of the Cascades. As usual, I've posted a full TR on my website. This TR has a pitch-by-pitch description and photos of the climb. Check it out at: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear'>http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear Here are some photos: Link to larger version of photo overlay. Again, a link to my full TR on my website: http://sites.google.com/site/stephabegg/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/bear Edited August 2, 2010 by Steph_Abegg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Outstanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 nice work you two! way to get after it. Looking mighty handsome there Aaron! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Nice job, that looks excellent! Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'( If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'( If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=) Yeah we looked at going in "the long way" but schedules didn't allow for all that extra hiking. (though that might just be my excuse for being lazy...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'( If you have the time for the longer approach via Whatcom Pass, the route might be worth it....=) Yeah we looked at going in "the long way" but schedules didn't allow for all that extra hiking. (though that might just be my excuse for being lazy...) the long way holds an unacceptably high risk of running out of wine n' smokes along the way fortunately the path to our criminal rehabilation only takes 5-10 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 fortunately the path to our criminal rehabilation only takes 5-10 years I wonder if I force myself to rock bottom sooner I could speed up the Canuckistan rehab program. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Nice photos~! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Very nice! Fully agree this route is one of the best in the cascades *even if* you factor in the approach. Maybe I missed it but did you two do the 5.10 twin cracks up higher or did you take the right hand option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 Maybe I missed it but did you two do the 5.10 twin cracks up higher or did you take the right hand option? These them? Fun pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Been dreaming about that buttress for a while... thanks as always for the beautiful photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Hello Steph, Something to consider on your overlay would be to add Mark Fielding to the route that you have marked "Becky Route". I know Mark and believe that he led the crux on the first ascent. He was AWOL from the ARMY at the time, he turned himself in after completing this climb. He said that the ARMY was "really pissed" when he got back. He said he spent A LOT of time filling sandbags during his time in Vietnam. I have his phone number if you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 I love this picture: I like all the pictures, but this one shows a meat hook bolt hanger, similar to what I removed and replaced in Darrington some years ago. I bet these were installed by the same climber. Thanks, as always, for posting fun stuff here on cc.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 I love this picture: I like all the pictures, but this one shows a meat hook bolt hanger, similar to what I removed and replaced in Darrington some years ago. I bet these were installed by the same climber. Thanks, as always, for posting fun stuff here on cc.com. bomber!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steph_Abegg Posted August 7, 2010 Author Share Posted August 7, 2010 Hello Steph, Something to consider on your overlay would be to add Mark Fielding to the route that you have marked "Becky Route". I know Mark and believe that he led the crux on the first ascent. He was AWOL from the ARMY at the time, he turned himself in after completing this climb. He said that the ARMY was "really pissed" when he got back. He said he spent A LOT of time filling sandbags during his time in Vietnam. I have his phone number if you want it. Ed, Thanks for the tidbit of interesting info, I like knowing the history of the route. I'll add some of the history to my TR on my website (probably won't update the uploaded topo though). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Nice job, that looks excellent! Ivan and I were hoping to do that this summer but unfortunately Canada doesn't want me. :'( ha ha, ivan told me all bout that - i couldn't stop laughing, 'specially when he got to the part about you guys turning around and having to go back thru US customs w/ dawgs everywhere n shit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted August 8, 2010 Share Posted August 8, 2010 Very nice Steph, as usual. Love the night photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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