Design an Alpine Rock Shoe

[ARob]

If you were to design an alpine rock shoe, what would you construct? Do you believe a synthetic shoe is better for the alpine environs or a leather? High top? Mid top? Would you do something different with the leather? Laces? Not laces? Just want to hear some creative thoughts. And for further fun, what would you call it?

Edited July 27, 2010 by ARob

[ryanb]

Anasazi velcro but with c4 and a more relaxed heel. Like a synthetic and more aggressive version of the ascent or v-Mile...good for standing on tinny edges fiddling in gear, able to pull them off at belays.

[boadman]

I would probably call it the TC-Pro

[ARob]

Do you think the TC Pro is the perfect shoe? Aside from the price, do you think there are some things that could be improved?

[stevetimetravlr]

The only drawback to the TC Pro that I have found is that it is difficult to get it on without the tongue having a little fold in it which makes it painful to wear. So you have to be very careful putting it on. I have to turn the shoe almost sideways to get it on right so the tongue lays flat. But once its on, oh the comfort is sweet! It does it all. It is not quite as sensitive as the Mirua but that little bit of sensitivty loss is more then enough trade off for its all aroundness. Wait till you do a foot jam with the TC Pro, it is padded and you can just crank off your foot jams. Pretty impressive shoe.

[jfs1978]

Not sure what an "alpine shoe" is...other than a comfortable shoe that climbs really well. Seems like it's pretty much the same thing you'd want at the home crag...

 

The TC Pro is pretty damn good though. Just used mine on Liberty Crack and loved 'em (although that "5.10" sh** was STILL hard dammit...wtf). I'm still breaking them in so I took em off at a couple belays...but they climb as well as my LS Miuras (edge on nothing, climb all crack sizes, and I managed to finish an alpine climb w/o ripping open my ankles on any offwidth - !!!). And they are way more comfy.

 

Freakin' spendy even if you have a hookup though. No way to justify them at full price imho.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

The high top is essential for me for alpine. I always manage to scrape up my ankles in the usual offwidth pitch otherwise. I also like a higher top because it keeps the gravel out better on those ridge climbs that always have a short walking bit somewhere along the way. I love my old blue Kaukulators but a little bit more modern shape like the TC Pro would be nice. I hear the 5.10 Grandstones are alright too and way cheaper, but I haven't tried either one.

 

Leather vs. synthetic doesn't matter much although I like leather. I don't know how you could do anything other than laces for lots of crack climbing.

[TMO]

 

Great topic. One that I have thought of often. I have always wanted a shoe that is somewhere between an approach shoe and a Kaukulator.

 

High top for sure. I am fond of leather and laces (good song) but it would be interesting to try some things that Salomon has been doing with their running shoes;

•Breathable mesh uppers

•Gore-Tex seam-sealed inner booties

•Kevlar Quickfit lacing system (to the toe of course); lace pocket hides lacing away for safety.

 

Don't laugh too hard... but seriously, I have often thought that the ideal climbing shoe would mimic a goats hoof.... hard (not too hard) around the edge and a softer, slightly raised "pad" in the middle so it would both edge and smear well, maybe....

 

I would call them "Goat Shoes". Google it, it's pretty funny.

[ryanb]

Here is a question:

 

Do you guys want a shoe that you can both approach and climb in or two shoes one for each purpose?

 

I find that the security I get on small feet from a modern shoe (anasazi or miura if it fits your feet) outweighs concerns over comfort, walkability or even ankle protection.

 

Maybe the ultimate would be a two shoe solution... a light high top approach shoe with an edging toe patch for approaching/scrambling and a modern rock shoe for harder pitches.

 

I'd like them both to be velcro for easy swap-ability (why aren't there any velcor approach shoes? seems like it would be perfect for cragging/bouldering). I actually prefer velcro in cracks... if you can get your foot that far in pretty much anything works and i've never worn through the velcro straps on my shoes mid climb.

 

[Rad]

It seems there are two kinds of solutions:

 

Two pairs of shoes. A pair of rock shoes good for friction, cracks, and edges (many options), and a pair of sturdy, lightweight approach shoes (also many available).

 

One pair of shoes. This is a tough nut to crack because anything with decent rock performance will be tight, not have padding, not be stiff enough to take a crampon or work on hard snow, and wear down and get dirty quickly on trails.

 

 

[bstach]

I would design a high-top slipper that can take crampons. And it must have sticky rubber soles. Leather would be OK because i would just slather it with sno-seal. Plastic would be a good choice too b/c it would support front points better. But it must be flexible plastic for comfort on the approach. It should also have a removable overboot for insulation when used in extreme mountain environemtns like the Himalaya.

 

I would call it the Toe Tally Ghey All Around Alpine Shoe. Its the only alpine footwear you will ever need.

[ARob]

How heavy are the Kaukulators? When did La Sportiva stop making them?

[Le Piston]

Until you design and market this boot (I'll buy a pair!) I guess I will continue to utilize the multiple boot/shoe approach. I find that if the climbing is lower 5th class, I use my La Sportiva Trangos. If there is little or no snow on the approach and the rock climbing is up to about 5.8ish, I use my Guide Tennies. Anything more difficult I go for the real rock shoes (Mythos, Huecos, or my multi-resoled Kaukulators).

[tomtom]

How are people sizing the TC-Pro, as compared to say Mythos?

[summitchaserCJB]

[keenwesh]

I'm sorry to say it but I really don't like the TC pros for cracks, maybe I need to break them in more? for crack nothing beats the mocasins, and the fact that you can pull them off quickly and easily at belays is super nice too. the TC pros are realy nice for edging and face but they just hurt to footjam in. I couldn't stay on the split pillar with them because it was too damn painfull, when I went up the next time marc did the left side so I didn't get to try the moccs on the same pitch but they felt much more secure and comfy in the hand through offwidth splitter section. (I aided the 12a thin part...)