ARob

It's all in. It's cold. But it might be the last chance. Haven't swung tools in a couple of seasons. I know a couple of spots for easy leads or top ropes. Just want to get out and have some fun. Should be a nice day. Hit me up if interested. Alex 406-550-0452

Ben, Yes I did summit. Perhaps I can make that more clear. Thank you so much for taking the time to read it, and I appreciate your feedback. Hope you are spending your time well as we wait for the snow!

Cascadian Paradigm - A Blog by Alex Roberts Going solo we leave behind a lot of security and can gain a lot of freedom. Lonely Exploits is a short story I would like to share with the climbing community. The link above will take you to my blog: Cascadian Paradigm. Thank you so much, I hope you enjoy.

Thanks for the beta

Great TR, great pics. Just wanted to echo the sentiments about Joe and the 59er Diner. When one of the Lifties at Stevens got injured early in the season (has a family etc) the 59er Diner sponsored a benefit party for him and provided a bunch of food that we scarfed down in exchange for donations. So please go get a milkshake or some food from them. PLUS THEY HAVE $1 BEERS, THAT'S RIGHT, $1 BEERS!

A buddy got a hold of me and asked if I was down to ski Rainier at the end of the month. I said 'hell yeah' and then realized I really needed to get training. So I am looking to get out a ton this month before the snow melts. Got out today, did Moonlight Bowl and it was fucking sweet, didn't see any other tracks the whole day and the snow was excellent. Mid-week is best for me as a I am usually raft guiding on the weekend. White Pine Cirque, Lichtenburg, and Mt. David are at the top of my list for day trips around here, but I just want to get out and push it. Let me know if you are interested, I have spare bed and couch to crash on if that helps. I live in Leavenworth. Thanks, I hope everyone is having as good of a spring as I am. -Alex

I can tell you as a Stevens Employee that these guys already tried to shut down employee transportation that most of us rely on and keeps the parking lots open for the public. Thanks to the dept. managers, that didn't happen. But there are already big cuts happening and I know several people who just moved to the area for a job, that they were promised two weeks ago would be there for them this season, and are now out of work because of these cuts. It'll be interesting to see how high the ticket prices go in the coming seasons.

FYI - As for learning how to ski, I just went through the Ski Instructor Seminar up at Stevens and I really like their approach. Super professional, they cut out the extraneous bull shit that I remember as a kid. My sister is an instructor at Snoqualmie and according to her it sounds like kind of a shit show down there. But I really dig the approach at Stevens. Now I just gotta ace my on hill interview this saturday.

Does anyone want to go look for some moderate alpine ice on Tuesday or Friday this week up here around Leavenworth? I'm still building my base of experience, but I'd love to get out and the weather forecast is looking great.

Thanks again to everyone for pitching in their thoughts. I thought this one of the more enjoyable threads to read since everyone was so informative and encouraging. I got a lot to learn ahead of me, but I'm as stoked as ever. I hope to run into you lot out at the crag. Hope everyone had a great Memorial Weekend. I did.

Here's a question about fixinig lines and sleeping on the ground and what not. I totally feel like I would just be in the way of others. Obviously, you want to be as fast as possible while still being safe. But are you just kind of saying tought titty to others while you are working the route (at hyper-slow n00b speed?) Just trying to figure out the protocal (that's not the word I'm looking for, but close enough) as far as sharing the rock and not stepping on toes. But I do really appreciate everyone's input. And I will be living in Leavenworth in about three weeks so getting to Index will be no problem. Thanks

Like I said before...

Right on, thanks everyone for the suggestions. I know that WA and OR is not exactly big wall territory. I was thinking maybe Baffin. Nah, just joking. But Squamish and Yosemite are probably where I will be looking to. Liberty Crack sounds perfect, but honing skills at Bacon and Index sounds like good ideas. Thanks again everyone. Here's to a good Memorial Weekend to everyone and blue skies wherever you are venturing.

The definition of a big wall thread sparked this question for me, but folks were getting a little off topic there, so let's try this. I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion for someone's first big wall. I'm not looking to push grades, and I have minimal aid experience (working on that), and I don't have a portaledge and would love to avoid the cost of one. But I would love to get a taste of a big wall experience. So if anyone has a suggestion they'd like to throw out there, I'd really appreciate it. I guess I am defining big wall as a climb that takes the 'average' climber more than one day. Thanks

Great trip, glad you guys had fun. I believe that's Mt. Pugh that you forgot the name of. I could be, and often am, wrong. But happy birthday and way to not get deturred by the weather.

Out of shear curiosity - why didn't you want the AAI to use your photos. I'm nowhere near your climbing level, but I'd be flattered. Were you wanting to sell the photos?

I am sorry to pass on the sad news that Nawang Gombu has passed away. He lived in Ashford for many years and formed many great friendships with climbers on Mt. Rainier for decades. I got the chance to go to Nepal with him in 2001 on a trip that changed my life. He eternally had a sunny smile and disposition, was patient, and compasssionate. There are plenty of amazing climbers out there, but there are few who make such a positive impact on the history and future of climbing. I have a fond memory of a day spent in he and Phursumba's double wide in Ashford where he helped me nurse a flu with Indian Tea while we watched Westerns and Jackie Chan movies. Gombu, you will be missed. Thank you for vision and hard work. A Brief Biography and Obituary on Nawang Gombu

I've been meaning to send a shout out to Jeremy and the rest of the crew over at the Mountain Shop in Portland. These guys really have the expertise to get you the best boot fit possible. They take the time to figure out what's up with your feet and they have a whole kit of tricks up their sleaves to get you in the most comfy fit possible. They helped me with my AT boots and my scarpa summits, now they fit perfectly and I have been enjoying my days out even more. Just wanted to give credit where credit is due.

:tup:

i was looking at the forecasts around Monday Tuesday and I saw that it said snow all day, then some rain after 10, then snow again, and that just seemed weird to me. Can anyone with more weather knowledge help me understand this? Is it just part of this Pineapple Express? Warm air getting kicked up from the ocean Monday and getting pushed in that night? Just interested, seeing if anyone wants to discuss. By the way it was snowing pretty good today up there. There was a good half hour of grapple followed by fatty flakes the rest of the afternoon. Snow on the west side of Kendall was powdery but stable. Good skiing. It was raining just off the pass. Did anyone see if the rain made it up to the pass?

There are some great huts in the Wallowas too. Great skiing and good powder for the PNW.

Holy shit, what a story!

Well I thought this whole thing was hilarious until this point. Now if this is post is totally in jest, I still think it's funny. But dude, you gotta stop using the word 'fag.' That was so middle school, and even then we all sounded stupid when we used it. Now hit me right back.

Doing OEC through Ski Patrol is good advice and a great way to find a job in the outdoors. I am currently a volunteer on Mt. Hood Ski Patrol and plan on moving to Pro Patrol in a couple seasons. I know that John Race at the Northwest Mountain School is on the AMGA board and would probably be happy to answer some specific questions. I have climbed with a few guides and guide companies and I can tell you there are great climbers who make shitty guides. Just to echo what others have said, you are there to care for and often teach first and climb second. There are a lot of outdoor programs these days that take folks climbing. To build your resume you can get top rope certified as a start and work your way into more multi-pitch guiding. RMI is usually looking for snow sloggers to take gear up to Muir most years too.