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Rise and Fall UTW


keenwesh

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does this get done with any regular frequency? sounds like a classic hard route for washington but I've never heard of anyone doing it. does it have the sketch bolts that failed on calling wolfgang or something? I am nowhere near skilled enough to climb it I just want to hear some history!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I tried this route yesterday. Maybe the hardest route I've been on at Index. I think this would be a harder redpoint than Town Crier (5.12+) or Green Drag-on (5.13-)

 

This is the ultimate sandbag! I've heard people say that maybe some holds have broke but I doubt this is the case. The hardest parts are on perfect rock and have no visible signs of broken holds. The real problem is that there just aren't that many holds... The only pitch I sent was the 5.10 pitch. The other three pitches (5.12a, 5.11D, 5.11b) took some serious figuring out before I could do the moves, like 10 tries on the 11b.

 

This is an amazing route and deserves a full redpoint at some point.

 

I've also heard rumors that this thing never saw a second free ascent. I doubt that is true but in all reality I wouldn't be that surprised that anyone who has seriously tried it got their ego hurt to much to see the project through.

 

Anyone know about the history?

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