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rocketparrotlet

Index is hard

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Rattletail is awesome, although the bottom needs a scrub.

 

You're up. :tup:

 

I hate to agree with CJB, but seriously. Too often I hear people say things like this. There is no committee for the cleaning of your favorite crag. There are no employees that maintain the place. It's you and me, spending a little time to make things a little nicer.

 

Wire brush at Home depot: $5

a few hours of your time: free

 

Clean start to your favorite route: priceless

 

BTW - Rattletale is a handcrack. Sissies....

 

Bringing back the pagetop: :pagetop:

 

Edited by fenderfour

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Single guys get to scrub.

 

Married guys with two kids get to climb on the rare occurrences they get outside.

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Hah, I resemble that remark. Ever find a new crag and think, now if someone else would just come and put these routes up so I could just show up and climb a half dozen pitches some day when I can get out?

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It sounds to me like you are progressing well but the two routes you mentioned below are hard for the grade so don't let them discourage you too much.

 

Libra Crack-deifinitely a sandbag if your short or try to jam it the entire way is as very tough. As someone mentioned earlier get creative with your stemming and get as high as possible that way you only have 1 or 2 thin jams before things get solid.

 

P1 or Aries. The top is a little wide and akward. I kneebar with my right leg, place a #3 camalot in so I am effectively on TR, and and then get a fistjam in and commit. It will be a litte scary because you have to swing left a bit to weight your jam but just go for it.

 

Also, try TRing Blockbuster (the short 5.9+ splitting the boulder above Stcle Crack and left or Aries P2). It is wide and akward but a good spot to try some commiting moves in a wide crack.

Edited by RideT61

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Hah, I resemble that remark. Ever find a new crag and think, now if someone else would just come and put these routes up so I could just show up and climb a half dozen pitches some day when I can get out?

 

Actually, I have the opposite reaction when finding a new crag. In a choice between having ticked off a bunch of routes on my to do list and a legacy of establishing a few really fun, high quality routes I'd be unable to throw all my marbles in one pile or the other. I'm married w/kids and have been putting time into route dvpt for the past few years, at one local crag and occasionally in the mtns. I really enjoy sharing these routes with others. Sometimes new routes and fun outings with friends merge (put it on your list!).

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Index is hard indeed. You mention crack pitches and if you want to get lots of practice mileage, bouldering as mentioned by several people is the way to go. Unfortunately you appear to be from Everett because husky peak is one of the best places to work on cracks of all sizes/difficulty but perhaps there is something equivalent in your neck of the wood.

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