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Posted

This topic intruded into some other topics.

Many climbers of all disciplines (rock, alpine, ski mountaineering) smoke. Some climbers feel it enhances their climbing. I personally feel like a gumby and can't/won't do it.

What is your opinion of weed combined with climbing and in general?

Would you climb with someone if you knew they were stoned?

SL

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Posted

I can't climb and smoke. I have, but I try and avoid climbing with people who like to smoke befor climbing.

For me skiing is the opposite. I may be able to ski clean, but I don't like it. grin.gif

I've never been able to do anything other than cause trouble when I've been drinking.

Posted

back in my highschool days of bouldering and gym climbing, I smoked and thought it improved my ability to climb, ski whatever. I tought I became in sync with my ability to move effortlessly and push my climbing beyond my comfort range. When training I could maintain focus and not get distracted or make excuses (Iknow it sounds like the opposite of what most would expect). After my freshman year in college I quit smoking. It was a good thing because I could not imagine climbing in any real sense (rope management, placing pro etc..)while being high. Its just plain dangerous and stupid. For the actual climbing part, things like bouldering are fairly harmless I suppose. I now know that I can get in sync with my movement without the high and Im a much better climber/skier because of it.

Posted

When I first started, I didn't smoke before climbing- I smoked after, or at the top. This Spring I got scared for the first time, like blindingly, paralyzingly scared. There was no reason for it, I was totally protected and there was nothing wrong on the climb. There were no drugs involved. The next few times I climbed, I was still way-too-easily spooked. Determined to enjoy climbing again, I started sparkin' up before a climb, and in a modest amount, it seems to help get me focused and relieve the initial anxiety.

Dunno if I'd lead stoned, but sometimes for me smoke does serve a purpose.

Posted

it would be interesting to hear what/why and where you got scared so bad. share your story please. sounds like you are using herb to escape, personally i don't think that is the proper use of the herb. masking your fears instead of dealing with them can only create problems in the long run.

have fun!

Posted

ana,

i wuld say that your partner does not toke with you, not cause you are a girl. but sounds like that he might feel that he needs to be in control of the situation since you are just starting out. it is great that you did not allow the fear to keep you from climbing.

personally you kinda sound like a poor me, i'm a girl feel sorry for me plz. i think it shouldn't be like that, go climb and have fun, be content with your abilities. i have been climbing for 10 yrs and i still suck!? though i have fun oushing myself beyond my self percieved limitations..success is the best drug period, it make you desire it more and more...and you can feed off that and improve not only your climbing but other aspects in life. i have learned alot fform climbing....but in the end the lessons i learn that i carry with me or not hard sequences, the sickest route or what the next person thinks of me...but what and how i feel about myself. i use climbing to teach myself control over my emotions and physical being. it is fortuante that they relate to climbing and the outside world.

have fun! cause i always am!

 

[This message has been edited by erik (edited 06-08-2001).]

[This message has been edited by erik (edited 06-08-2001).]

Posted

I'm not catching the pity-me-I'm-a-girl part, Erik, but some of that is excellent advice - thanks.

[This message has been edited by Anayajay (edited 06-08-2001).]

Posted

I was on the first pitch of a climb called Johnny Vegas in Red Rocks, NV. I don't have a guide handy so I can't tell you too much about it, but I think it's a 5.8.

That was my first climb of a weekend trip my partner and I took, and the first time I'd climbed outside of Washington. The approach was (to me) long and shitty. The area was pretty isolated, but there was another party a pitch ahead of us. I had brand new rock shoes and neither my partner nor myself thought to keep em untied or off while belaying. My partner was not visible when he reached the next belay point, and verbal communication was nearly impossible with wind and echoes. My feet were cramping really badly from the shoes, and I had a hard time even getting started. The whole climb felt like dental work and about 2/3 of the way up the pitch, I suddenly got The Fear. No muscle exhaustion, no fall, no slip. I just suddenly, inexplicably, got very scared. At first there was no real tangible threat, I wasn't exactly afraid *of falling*, I was just afraid. And once I was scared, it all built on itself, I knew that I put everyone in danger by panicking, and that made me panic. My amazingly capable partner managed to get me to the belay point, and ordered me to get a grip. I managed to rappel down, and as I looked at the rock, it wasn't a hard climb.

I shook and cried and swore I'd never climb again. We spent the night playing blackjack and drinking, and the next morning it was me that dragged my partner back to the rock. We spent that day, however, on sport climbs next to the road, and I was fine.

I got The Fear inexplicably again at Peshastin in April. No real trigger, except maybe frustration.

My earlier post was inaccurate. I don't have to get high to climb, but I do occaisionally have a day where it's a boost.

In response to the other questions SL posed, I think that people can be stupid without chemicals, and I think some people get especially stupid with them. I think it's a pretty situational thing. My partner has usually toked in the past, but doesn't with me, explaining that climbing with me has made him more careful (probably since I'm a girl.) Conversely, it was actually him that suggested it might be the thing to get me back up off the ground. I know there's people that climb drunk, however, and that to me seems like a death wish.

P.S. I realize this post is off topic - I'm not sure of the etiquette on this board when responding to questions. If I should have created a new subject, I apologize.

Posted

rap off the royal arches! man you might be token up a little too much! i can save ya an hour or 2 if you run off the north dome gully. no more sketchy than s.c.w. descent!

Posted

~ 15 years ago, I used to hang with a small crowd of regulars at the Gunks & we all enjoyed partying before, during, and after climbing, pretty much non-stop. I can't say that it made anyone climb any better, (though it defly made me more likely to get gripped on lead), but it sure was a lot of fun... I only wish I could remember more of it =)

Posted

SMOKING IS STUPID.

WHY DO IT?

CLIMBING ALREADY DEMANDS A HIGH AMOUNT A MENTAL COMPETENCE SO WHY DEMINISH THAT.

shame on you all for going into the mountains under the influence. you are lucky. and it will run out sometime.

be careful and please dont be stupid. i dont want to read your name in Climbing Accidents of North America 2002.

Aidan

 

Posted

Aidan,

Comments respected but speak for yourself.

I can recall people climbing drunk and I think it is much more dangerous but legal rolleyes.gif

I personally would not climb fried up with someone that did not take to it as ok.

As far as diminishing mental competence maybe you are right in a sense. But how many brain cells does it really take to pull on a piece of rock and stick in pro?? Not much if you ask me.

It has helped me and hindered me a time or 3 in the past but most of the time it niether hinders or helps much but simply relaxes me to enjoy my mountain experience. People have been doing it for years and many of the greats I might add...

-Cpt

Posted

What about John Middendorf and Walt Shipley dropping acid and soloing 5.11s to train themselves for the bizarre mental states they would encounter half-starved, fatigued and oxygen-depleted on high Himalayan big walls?

Personally I prefer to wait till the day is done to inhale but that's because A) I tend to lose my motivation when baked and B) I have a poor memory at the best of times, wouldn't want to leave my rack hanging on a tree at the top of a route and walk away....

 

But, I have done the drinking and climbing thing too. Lighthouse Park, blindfolds, topropes, beers hidden on certain holds, a sunny evening, girls to go skinny dipping with - smile.gif

Posted

Hey Erik--

BTW, I've hiked the North Dome Gulley, in the dark, mind you, and it is no cake walk. The rap saves at least an hour over the hike, the added bonus being you avoid traversing across the wet dirty runnout slab at the end that's far scarier than the rest of the climb.

All this aside, the point I was trying to make was it's better to wait until your feet touch the ground before you toke up. The crux of many climbs is in the decent.

Don't smoke crack on Liberty Crack, but if you're just clipping bolts on Pot Ash Road....

Posted

matt,

i would have to say that it is personal preferance, i have done the route several times and would say that anytime you can run off, that you are better off. that way your feet are on the ground.

now pot hash rd, last time i was there i was jamming the goods and saw people clipping drilled/glued angles. just watch out for the sketchy govern(mental) sepertist hiding in the bush with his un-american handouts. and the weak-ass beer!

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

If you were to study the history of ascents on El Cap you would find most of the climbs done in the big Y in the 70's were done by guys who dropped acid on a regular basis on and off the rock. I recommend a Chuck Pratt slide show.

Posted

I know, old topic. Sorry but,

Matt,...one mind, one body, one soul, ONE BOARD.

Dru,...acid solo training?! Holy shnickies! I've heard personal accounts of weed and wine being important enough parts of climbing to haul along. Acid just might be too much of a trip. Has anyone ever tried those mushroom things while climbing?

s.lo. Eerie.

Posted

AlpineK - - A slide show by Chuck Pratt would be awesome to attend. I would also like to see a presentation by Warren Harding. Where did you get to see a Chuck Pratt slide show?

Posted

Tangerine Trip, Mescalito, Peyote Dreams... no drugs involved in putting up those those routes.

When Henry Barber did the second free ascent of Stannard's Foops at the Gunks he went up took a fall, lowered down, drank a beer, went up again and fell, lowered, drank another beer, went up and sent it.

Just Remember: "Smoke Pot - Check Knot"

Posted

There are a lot of us that would like to see a Chuck Pratt slideshow, but it's unlikely now, considering that he died at least a few months ago frown.gif

RIP

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by AlpineK:

I recommend a Chuck Pratt slide show.

I'm in no hurry to be in the same place that Chuck is, may he RIP.

BTW, there was a memorial celebration of Chuck's life yesterday at the Ranch in the Tetons...possibly the last chance to catch those stories from those who accompanied him in those journeys.

 

Posted

Pratt was one of my heroes. The guy had a hard time with Offwidths in his younger years so he went off to JTree and climbed every one he could find so he could get good at them when he had to climb them on the bigger routes. Cracks me up too smile.gif

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