sobo Posted June 1, 2010 Posted June 1, 2010 Trip: Goose Egg Mtn - Dirty Sanchez Date: 5/30/2010 Trip Report: Distel-style photo assault TR follows... Justin (summerprophet) and I did the Dirty Sanchez on Sunday, and arrived at the parking spot as jessbee and partner were reaching the belay on top of Pitch 4. No worries about party-inflicted rockfall by the time we started up, although Justin did bounce a golf-ball-sized one off my helmet on Pitch 3. Four and half hours up, one hour down; used the descent gulley and one rap off the tree. Fabulous day, and the rock really ain't all that bad, especially for basalt. Sobo contemplates Kloochman's and Strobach Mtn. from atop Pitch 1 while waiting for Justin to arrive Justin blasts up Pitch 2 Justin tops out on Pitch 3 Sobo in the fun off-width of Pitch 3 Sobo nearing the top of the OW - despite the expression, this really was a fun pitch! Sobo launching off on Pitch 4 Justin pulls into the belay atop Pitch 4 Surveying the looseness of Pitch 5 Sobo cleaning the short bolted pitch, #6. I really should have taken this lead... A small cell moved in and it got a bit windy and spitted rain at us between Pitches 5 and 7. Thanks, Justin, for the loaner shell. :tup: Sobo on the Jenga Traverse, the knife-edged ridge of Pitch 7. It warmed up a bit and the wind died down. Justin relaxing at the top of the climb. The cell had passed, and the descent gulley awaits... Sobo coiling up at one of the cairns marking the trail to the descent gulley. I'm about as fuq'n charged as a guy can be before heading in for surgery. Mad props go out to Justin, for getting me out before the knife falls! With everything taken together, this really was a fun climb: a great partner, beautiful alpine setting, multi-pitch route, decent enough weather, loose enough rock, good bolts, mostly solid gear, and every pitch had something interesting to be said for it. Don't swallow the hype in the guidebook about it being too manky. It's an adventure, so go get some! We never made it to RTL on Monday because of the rain. We'll be back... Gear Notes: We brought waaaaaaaay more than we ever used. Take a standard rack of nuts/cams, nothing larger than a #3½ Friend. Add half a dozen QDs and a half dozen long slings. Approach Notes: The guidebook nails it. Quote
fgw Posted June 1, 2010 Posted June 1, 2010 Nice panos! (a 4-star name for a 1-star climb ...my humble opinion anyway). Quote
jessbee Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Nice work guys, I thought that was a really fun climb. The loose rock made it a little spicy for leading but all in all 'twas a great way to spend the day! I'm glad we didn't send anything down on you. I only pulled one hold off on the sporty pitch 6. Quote
Pilchuck71 Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Nice work gentlemen. Looks like afun outing. I especially like the looks of that OW. Good luck with the sugery! Quote
Tokogirl Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Great pics and looks like you guys hit the weather window to get a nice climb in before your surgery! When we were up there a few weeks ago, we thought about doing Dirty Sanchez but heard it was a bit loose. I fiquared it can't be any worse than Gangsta Rap, which was not that fun especially with a bit of rain. Best to you with your surgery and a toast, with a good Porter, for a speedy recovery! Teresa Quote
sobo Posted June 2, 2010 Author Posted June 2, 2010 Yeah, Teresa, it was sa-weet! Don't buy the hype about it being too loose. Justin only pulled off one hold all day, and I only got beaned once. Do wear a helmet, though, even if you're not under anyone. And thanks for the well wishes. I'll drink with you anytime! Quote
Dane Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Thanks for the push to check GE out. We were on RTL yesterday. Awesome place imo. I'll certainly be back asap. Quote
sobo Posted June 2, 2010 Author Posted June 2, 2010 Dane! WTF, d00d?? Thought you were in Boise for the long weekend. Add the fact that you did RTL on Monday, while I was drinking with Justin because it was freak'n pouring rain in E-burg all morning and we couldn't muster the motivation to drive over to GE to even check on RTL, and you really make me look like the flake that I truly am... Got any pics? A TR coming? Who'ja partner up with for the outing? Quote
Dane Posted June 2, 2010 Posted June 2, 2010 Sorry it was yesterday, Tuesday..not Monday. It was after midnight when I was writing. Nice all day. I was a pussy because of my feet so we bailed and left around 4PM. I've soloed some chit bitd but YOU were nuts to have solo'ed that first pitch Sobo! The mighty Klewin was me guide for the day Got rained out of Boise and it is raining hard here in 'quah again today and Doug said it was raining in 'berg this morning. No TR but I really like the rock (but am a terrible face climber) and the area. I'll be back. The dougie styl'in the corner. And your stellar first pitch which I found rather hard btw Quote
sobo Posted June 2, 2010 Author Posted June 2, 2010 I've soloed some chit bitd but YOU were nuts to have solo'ed that first pitch Sobo! Clarification required, Dane. Not as bold as you think I am... I soloed up to the first bolt on the pitch and then a little bit higher. Realized if I kept going I was gonna orphan my new (at the time) son, so downclimbed the damned thing and ran home crying like a lost calf. Quote
Dane Posted June 3, 2010 Posted June 3, 2010 Shit, just clipping that bolt out right on the smooth wall a long ways out from the corner is hard. Good place to turn around imo. Glad you did Quote
Off_White Posted June 3, 2010 Posted June 3, 2010 Given the role Sobo would play in your own survival later on, it's an especially good thing he turned around. Goose Egg is cool, but it's a real bucket of cold water for anyone who things its a sport crag... Quote
sobo Posted June 3, 2010 Author Posted June 3, 2010 Goose Egg is cool, but it's a real bucket of cold water for anyone who things its a sport crag...Now that's fuq'n funny, I don't care who ya'are. Quote
kevino Posted June 5, 2010 Posted June 5, 2010 Good to see some pictures of you and Justin! Did he tell you about time we started up the route but it was like 100 degrees out? Take care and heal up well! Quote
sobo Posted June 6, 2010 Author Posted June 6, 2010 Good to see some pictures of you and Justin! Did he tell you about time we started up the route but it was like 100 degrees out? Take care and heal up well! As a matter of fact, Kevin, that story did come up. I asked Justin, "WTF were you two thinking, getting on RTL in freak'n JULY???!!!" Quote
AlpineMonkey Posted June 6, 2010 Posted June 6, 2010 If Goose Egg isn't a sport cragg, then what is it? Quote
kevino Posted June 6, 2010 Posted June 6, 2010 Epic. Hey Craig, do you have a #5 or 6 I can borrow so I can climb backbone this summer? Quote
Dirtyleaf Posted June 6, 2010 Posted June 6, 2010 Exactly. Goose Egg is whatever you want it to be. Quote
Sherri Posted June 7, 2010 Posted June 7, 2010 Sweet! So glad to see you getting out and having a good time on the rock before the surgery, Sobo. Best wishes and hope you mend quickly so we can finally swing leads on Canary. Take care 'til then-- :kisss: Quote
summerprophet Posted June 7, 2010 Posted June 7, 2010 Kevin, I got some big cams you are welcome too. Justin Quote
Off_White Posted June 7, 2010 Posted June 7, 2010 If Goose Egg isn't a sport cragg, then what is it? It's a sporty crag. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.