Jump to content

[TR] Goose Egg Mtn - Dirty Sanchez 5/30/2010


Recommended Posts

Trip: Goose Egg Mtn - Dirty Sanchez

 

Date: 5/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

Distel-style photo assault TR follows...

 

Justin (summerprophet) and I did the Dirty Sanchez on Sunday, and arrived at the parking spot as jessbee and partner were reaching the belay on top of Pitch 4. No worries about party-inflicted rockfall by the time we started up, although Justin did bounce a golf-ball-sized one off my helmet on Pitch 3. Four and half hours up, one hour down; used the descent gulley and one rap off the tree. Fabulous day, and the rock really ain't all that bad, especially for basalt.

 

 

Sobo contemplates Kloochman's and Strobach Mtn. from atop Pitch 1 while waiting for Justin to arrive

DSCN0142.JPG

 

 

Justin blasts up Pitch 2

DSCN01392.JPG

 

 

Justin tops out on Pitch 3

DSCN0143.JPG

 

 

Sobo in the fun off-width of Pitch 3

nikon_stitch_01_small.JPG

 

 

Sobo nearing the top of the OW - despite the expression, this really was a fun pitch!

nikon_06012010_DirtySanchez_014_small.JPG

 

 

Sobo launching off on Pitch 4

nikon_06012010_DirtySanchez_018_small.JPG

 

 

Justin pulls into the belay atop Pitch 4

DSCN0151.JPG

 

 

Surveying the looseness of Pitch 5

DSCN0144.JPG

 

 

Sobo cleaning the short bolted pitch, #6. I really should have taken this lead...

A small cell moved in and it got a bit windy and spitted rain at us between Pitches 5 and 7.

Thanks, Justin, for the loaner shell. :tup: :tup:

nikon_06012010_DirtySanchez_026_small.JPG

 

 

Sobo on the Jenga Traverse, the knife-edged ridge of Pitch 7. It warmed up a bit and the wind died down.

nikon_stitch02_small.JPG

 

 

Justin relaxing at the top of the climb. The cell had passed, and the descent gulley awaits...

DSCN0157.JPG

 

 

Sobo coiling up at one of the cairns marking the trail to the descent gulley.

I'm about as fuq'n charged as a guy can be before heading in for surgery.

Mad props go out to Justin, for getting me out before the knife falls!

nikon_06012010_DirtySanchez_045_small.JPG

 

With everything taken together, this really was a fun climb: a great partner, beautiful alpine setting, multi-pitch route, decent enough weather, loose enough rock, good bolts, mostly solid gear, and every pitch had something interesting to be said for it. Don't swallow the hype in the guidebook about it being too manky. It's an adventure, so go get some!

 

We never made it to RTL on Monday because of the rain. We'll be back...

 

Gear Notes:

We brought waaaaaaaay more than we ever used.

Take a standard rack of nuts/cams, nothing larger than a #3½ Friend.

Add half a dozen QDs and a half dozen long slings.

 

Approach Notes:

The guidebook nails it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 22
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nice work guys, I thought that was a really fun climb. The loose rock made it a little spicy for leading but all in all 'twas a great way to spend the day! I'm glad we didn't send anything down on you. I only pulled one hold off on the sporty pitch 6.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great pics and looks like you guys hit the weather window to get a nice climb in before your surgery!

When we were up there a few weeks ago, we thought about doing Dirty Sanchez but heard it was a bit loose. I fiquared it can't be any worse than Gangsta Rap, which was not that fun especially with a bit of rain.

Best to you with your surgery and a toast, with a good Porter, for a speedy recovery!

Teresa

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, Teresa, it was sa-weet! Don't buy the hype about it being too loose. Justin only pulled off one hold all day, and I only got beaned once. :crazy: Do wear a helmet, though, even if you're not under anyone.

And thanks for the well wishes. I'll drink with you anytime! :wave:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dane! WTF, d00d?? Thought you were in Boise for the long weekend.

 

Add the fact that you did RTL on Monday, while I was drinking with Justin because it was freak'n pouring rain in E-burg all morning and we couldn't muster the motivation to drive over to GE to even check on RTL, and you really make me look like the flake that I truly am... :)

 

Got any pics? A TR coming? Who'ja partner up with for the outing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry it was yesterday, Tuesday..not Monday. It was after midnight when I was writing. Nice all day. I was a pussy because of my feet so we bailed and left around 4PM. I've soloed some chit bitd but YOU were nuts to have solo'ed that first pitch Sobo!

 

The mighty Klewin was me guide for the day :)

 

Got rained out of Boise and it is raining hard here in 'quah again today and Doug said it was raining in 'berg this morning.

 

No TR but I really like the rock (but am a terrible face climber) and the area. I'll be back.

 

The dougie styl'in the corner.

 

agt.sized.jpg

 

And your stellar first pitch which I found rather hard btw :)

 

ags.sized.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've soloed some chit bitd but YOU were nuts to have solo'ed that first pitch Sobo!

Clarification required, Dane. Not as bold as you think I am... I soloed up to the first bolt on the pitch and then a little bit higher. Realized if I kept going I was gonna orphan my new (at the time) son, so downclimbed the damned thing and ran home crying like a lost calf. :laf:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to see some pictures of you and Justin! Did he tell you about time we started up the route but it was like 100 degrees out? Take care and heal up well!

As a matter of fact, Kevin, that story did come up. I asked Justin, "WTF were you two thinking, getting on RTL in freak'n JULY???!!!" :crazy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...