marc_leclerc Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 that most certainly does SUCK.... my condolences. make sure you know how to make sure your rappels are all safe and properly backed up and bombproof as possible. Make sure all your friends also know how to properly set up and back up all rappel methods too... Quote
marc_leclerc Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) don't really understand what happened... poor guy did the rappel where you tie a single line to a 6mm cord with a big ass knot, the knot jams against the rap ring and you rap off the single line. At the bottom you pull on the sinny line to pull the rope. You can put a clove hitch on a locking biner to jam against the ring just above where the cord is tied on to make things MUCH safer... he didn't take this precaution and his knot slipped through the ring and he fell to his death. Edited May 10, 2010 by marc_leclerc Quote
ivan Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 luckily i'm far too stupid (yet embracing my retardation ) to experiment w/ such fancy things... as a retard w/ a half-wiped ass intellect i like to stay deep w/n my comfort zone for technical systems - experimentation is for upper-end-teenage-thai whores, dig? Quote
JosephH Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 Works when done right, but skipping this kind of shennanigans is why a lot of locals climb on twins in Vegas. I much prefer twins to dragging along a small cord solely for rapping. Quote
denalidave Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 Especially since many routes wander anyway... less drag with the twins. I pretty much only climb on doubles there, at least for long routes. Condolences to the family & friends. Be careful out there... Quote
Crillz Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) Sad news. Be safe. Edited May 10, 2010 by Crillz Quote
Sherri Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 ... this is why a lot of locals climb on twins in Vegas. I much prefer twins to dragging along a small cord solely for rapping. +1 Vegas is where I learned to appreciate the advantage of the twins. Though I am grateful for the discussion on how to utilize the other(tag line) method safely. Very sorry for the loss of a fellow climber. Quote
jmace Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 Especially since many routes wander anyway... less drag with the twins Twins climb like a single, there is no reduction in drag. They fit in your pack real nice though Quote
Stefan Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 I do not do this kind of rappel, but I do know of it. Can someone explain to me why you would NOT put the 6mm line through a rappel device like a black diamond atc? I thought that if you have the 6mm line right next to you, why not put it through your rappel device anyways? I guess it comes down to tension? Is that correct? Quote
ann Posted May 10, 2010 Posted May 10, 2010 (edited) Some folks on the SuperTopo and related threads were saying that due to the unequal friction on the different-sized ropes through the belay device, the two strands quickly become unequal, increasing risk of having one thread end pass through belay device prematurely. Fixes for this scenario suggested are knot the strand ends making passage impossible and use the locker backup shown above. Edited May 10, 2010 by ann Quote
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