Which rope?

[jdiede]

Hey guys I have a few questions reguarding rope. I am new to the climbing scene and in the market for my first climbing rope. I Have started to lead climb and set up top rope. On top rope my skill level is about 5.10 pushing the acasional 5.11 . My leads are 5.8 - 5.9 . I would like to stick under a 10mm rope somewhere around 9.5 mm. I love the mammut ropes I have climbed on, but I am open to any suggestions. Let me know what you think. Thanks

[mountainmandoug]

I have loved Mammut and Stearling the most. Get either one and you won't regret it.

[Julian]

I have a Mammut Supernova 10mm 60m dry rope. Get it (or something equivalent from them if they've done some model shuffling) and you won't be sorry.

[jdiede]

which mammut and sterling models did you like?

[RJRiha]

Hey guys I have a few questions reguarding rope. I am new to the climbing scene and in the market for my first climbing rope. I Have started to lead climb and set up top rope. On top rope my skill level is about 5.10 pushing the acasional 5.11 . My leads are 5.8 - 5.9 . I would like to stick under a 10mm rope somewhere around 9.5 mm. I love the mammut ropes I have climbed on, but I am open to any suggestions. Let me know what you think. Thanks

 

What are you going to be doing with this rope mainly? Is it primarily for TR, or is this going to be mostly for leading? I'm assuming you're just rock climbing, and not doing any alpine climbing with it. Why under 10mm? Usually newer climbers are more likely to do lots of TRing, and are less likely to recognize risks for rope wear (running over edges, not extending anchors, etc). For a first rope, I'd generally recommend a >10mm, with a thick, durable sheath.

[mountainmandoug]

I love my 9.2 Stearling Nano. I also very much like the 8.4mm Duetto and I've gone climbing on there 10.4 craigging rope and I think that's probably what I will get after I wear out my Biel fatty.

 

I've climbed on Mammut 10mm Galaxy and thought it was very fine, and I love my friends 9.5mm Mammut. The Genesis 8.5mm doubles are sweet as well.

[bstach]

+1 on Malcom77b's comment

 

If you are not alpine climbing, get a 10 or even better 10.5mm for durability. Don't worry about dry coating either. Duodess is nice and makes rope handling a bit easier (thats where each half of the rope has a separate weave pattern).

 

I love Mammut ropes, i find they are supple (not stiff) and handle well.

[jdiede]

yea a combo ofy TR and leading. I have yet to take any wippers. I appreciate the rope advice guys.

[JosephH]

I love my 9.2 Stearling Nano. I also very much like the 8.4mm Duetto and I've gone climbing on there 10.4 craigging rope and I think that's probably what I will get after I wear out my Biel fatty.

I wouldn't recommend a sub-9.8 rope to someone new to climbing no matter what level they were climbing and if a lot of TR is going to happen then I'd recommend a 10.2.

[billcoe]

It's good advice up there, but one thing not noted is that getting a mentor is more important than a rope X5. The whole rope question is insignificant in comparison.

 

Any rope will work for you if it's UIAA rated #1 (single rope rating), but a mental error, and these are easy and plentiful- believe me, will kill you in seconds. If you are hanging with a group of experienced folks, after climbing you can have the rope conversation and also see what they are using. So forget about the rope, get an experienced partner.

 

Good luck!

[Dedman]

Do yourself a favor any pony up the extra bucks for a bi-color rope. If it only saves your life once it's probably worth it.

[Buckaroo]

It's a little bigger than your stated preference but if I only had one rope without a doubt it would be the Edelweiss Sharp 10.5. This is a second generation edge rope, the first was the Stratos.

 

all ropes are not created equal just because they meet UIAA. This Edelweiss has edge protection, it's more resistant to getting cut on a sharp edge. Most rope failures are due to getting cut on sharp edges. UIAA doesn't do edge tests anymore because they were having consistency problems but Edelweiss does their own tests and their cut resistance technology is the most advanced.

 

Whatever you get make sure it's dry also, in addition to the water resistance it makes it slide through the beaners better for less rope drag.

 

you don't need a bi-colored rope if you're on a budget, just get a special rope marking pen and mark the middle yourself.

[rocky_joe]

Edelwiess are shit ropes. Absolutely awful.

 

I stick with Beal, Sterling, Mammut or Millet. I'm currently using a Beal 9.4, it's great, but I usually lead just as much as I TR on it. (I won a Petzl 10.3 in a raffle, so I TR on that!)

[mountainsloth]

Do yourself a favor any pony up the extra bucks for a bi-color rope. If it only saves your life once it's probably worth it.

+1

[max]

Do yourself a favor any pony up the extra bucks for a bi-color rope. If it only saves your life once it's probably worth it.

 

+2

 

I don't see bicolor ropes on sale much, so that sucks, but I'm a fan simply for the safety factor.

[jmace]

What is the point in having a bi colour rope ? Dont you just coil from the ends any way?

 

If your not using this rope in winter there is no need for dry treatment

[denalidave]

What is the point in having a bi colour rope ? Dont you just coil from the ends any way?

 

If your not using this rope in winter there is no need for dry treatment

It is a really nice feature, especially easy to find the middle when setting raps.

 

I'd wager that there is plenty of opportunity to soak ropes year round, especially in the NW.

[Winter]

I recently picked up a 70m Petzl Nomad 9.8. Its gotten a pretty good work out and has held up really well. Pre-coiled from the factory, soft and supple feel, middle marking (which has faded a bit), durable.

 

There were rumors that Petzl ropes were having sheath problems, but they seem to have fixed that and they've been on sale b/c I think they're having problems moving them. I got a good deal.

[markwebster]

that was no rumor. I had a $200 petzl rope last 20 days of climbing. True, it was at jtree which is rough, but that thing was a major hairball. REI took it back. They may have fixed the problem as my buddy Craig got the same rope a year later, took the same jtree trip and his rope is fine.

[Crillz]

that was no rumor. I had a $200 petzl rope last 20 days of climbing. True, it was at jtree which is rough, but that thing was a major hairball. REI took it back. They may have fixed the problem as my buddy Craig got the same rope a year later, took the same jtree trip and his rope is fine.

 

I had a blue Petzl, 10.3 I think. It was sketch after one season. I could pinch the rope between my fingers and fold it in half like a piece of cardboard. Fuzzed like crazy too. Always had static shock syndrome after rapping.