cheap slider nuts?

[layton]

http://climbtech.myshopify.com/products/tech-nuts-camming-wedges-various-sizes

 

$14

 

???

[genepires]

Hasn't the newest cams made slider nuts obsolete? (like the zero cams and other really flexible stem cams)

[layton]

not in my opinion, slider nuts cover more surface area and in a narrower placement. The tiny (size 1-3) zeros only get used (for me that is) for aid placements.

 

 

these are by the same guys who make removable bolts...which are only available in 1/2" - i.e. they are useless

[genepires]

what type of rock is slider nuts good for? (obviously they would work where cams would work but it there a type of rock or climb in particular where the sliders work well and nothing else does?)

 

I would think that other gear (nuts and cams) would fully cover granite. I can't think of ever needing them for any chunk of granite I have been on. But then, I don't push things that hard.

 

Not an arguement Mike, just trying to figure it out.

[layton]

They work great in basalt and compact granite and sometimes sandstone. They also don't freeze up and bite better under icy conditions when you don't want (can't) hammer a knifeblade in (or the knifeblade placement is too shallow)

[Lodestone]

I wish they had a better/bigger picture of them. They appear to be a little different than ballnuts.

 

Chad

[chirp]

Those look like quickies.

[G-spotter]

Slider nut in a super thin crack is easily to get permanently fixed.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I really like Ballnutz for clean thin aid, often easier to deal with than a fiddly tiny nut in a nearly parallel crack. I've also used em (rarely) for thin cracks in basalt on free climbs. These look like the non-ball version that have been around for a long time under various names. Good price, but I think most agree the ball nut is superior.

[fenderfour]

#1 and #2 ballnutz are great for LA sized cracks. You could use that crazy purple Zero, but I'm too fat for that thing.

 

Cleaning ballnutz isn't too hard if you filed off the corners as HealyJE suggests in a post somewhere on this site. Before you even try the trigger, rotate the Ballnut around the Ball to pop it loose. Sometimes you have to yank it pretty hard. Once it's loose pull the trigger and remove.

 

edited to add:

 

The nuts from climbtech start at 8-10mm, much larger than ballnutz.

Edited March 30, 2010 by fenderfour

[spotly]

Cleaning ballnutz isn't too hard if you filed off the corners as HealyJE suggests in a post somewhere on this site. Before you even try the trigger, rotate the Ballnut around the Ball to pop it loose. Sometimes you have to yank it pretty hard. Once it's loose pull the trigger and remove.

 

My search skills suck - couldn't find that post I'm guessing the end nearest the cable? Just smooth over any sharp edges? I understand that the flat surfaces and the slide area are what's providing the friction but could filing the edges lessen holding ability to any degree?

 

I use these (ballz) (occassionally) in small, nearly parallel cracks where a nut might not set. I suppose a C3 would work in most cases that I've seen. Haven't had any problems with removing one yet but haven't fallen on one either

 

 

[marc_leclerc]

They seem to be really useful on harder gritstone routes.... I was planning on picking up a set before I go to England... i can see them being good for clean aid too, less scary than an RP catching on a crystal too small to see

[tomtom]

Hasn't the newest cams made slider nuts obsolete?

 

No.

[fenderfour]

Cleaning ballnutz isn't too hard if you filed off the corners as HealyJE suggests in a post somewhere on this site. Before you even try the trigger, rotate the Ballnut around the Ball to pop it loose. Sometimes you have to yank it pretty hard. Once it's loose pull the trigger and remove.

 

My search skills suck - couldn't find that post I'm guessing the end nearest the cable? Just smooth over any sharp edges? I understand that the flat surfaces and the slide area are what's providing the friction but could filing the edges lessen holding ability to any degree?

 

I use these (ballz) (occassionally) in small, nearly parallel cracks where a nut might not set. I suppose a C3 would work in most cases that I've seen. Haven't had any problems with removing one yet but haven't fallen on one either

 

 

I couldn't find it either.

 

File off all sharp edges on the face of the ball and on the ramp. These edges get caught up on crystals and bumps and get your ballnuts stuck. They can also make a bad placement seem good.

 

Joseph also had a trick to melt and flatten the tube covering the trigger on the smallest ballnuts.