Chopped bolts

[LostCamKenny]

isn't anyone interested in those pitons?

she sold em today and i missed gettin em by about an hour - to who ever it is that beat me to it, "you sir are an asshole!"

[LostCamKenny]

Topping out into the poison oak sucks my friend.

you could not be more right!

[kevbone]

[geoff]

Yea, can't remember if there are any bolts.

[kevbone]

[denalidave]

isn't anyone interested in those pitons?

she sold em today and i missed gettin em by about an hour - to who ever it is that beat me to it, "you sir are an asshole!"

I almost bought em myself till I realized I'd likely never use em...

[stevetimetravlr]

I've always looked at crags as training grounds for the real thing, that place Ivan went to.

 

[ivan]

so...back from the yosylum and glad to see the local inmates have been flinging poo at each other like the true hairless monkeys we are

 

my attention span is tre-limited and my time precious - anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2?

 

hmmm...i should load up a recent pic of white granite n' golden sunny skies n' climbing in shorts, no?

[dhrmabum]

Uh, yeah, I think it's that time.

[ivan]

here ya go

seconding the pendulum on p5 of da s face of warshington's hairy column - nice n' snowy on half dome, no?

[dhrmabum]

Very nice. Early spring climbing in Yosemite. Excellent.

[ivan]

dammit - wrong pic actually - that was the indomitable tvash clenaign p4 while i jugged back up a seperate static line - thiiiiiis is him cleaning p5

[ivan]

suppose if those'ens don't work there's these tidbits...

[Julian]

my attention span is tre-limited and my time precious - anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2?

 

Everyone was hankering for an Oregon bolting argument since there hasn't been one in a couple of weeks,

[JosephH]

Not clipping bolts usually means they aren't necessary like most of the bolts on p1 of YW. That said, not clipping them doesn't give you the right to chop them in most instances unless the pro is solid and obvious. But dumbing crags down by bolting them to the lowest common denominator and then saying "just don't clip it" is also about as sad a construct and attitude as I can think of. And let's be clear, the experience available in gyms and most sport climbing venues is only a small part of climbing and you don't reclaim that by simply 'skipping bolts' (or even soloing for that matter).

 

As far as anchors go, the notion of littering trees with webbing at Ozone or DZ/FS is an idiosyncratic throwback and on many lines simply leads to ridiculous topout drudgery that also dumps dirt back down on routes. In almost all cases out at both crags anchors are the way to go. The tops of both crags are also susceptible to erosion and the less traffic above vertical lines at either, the better. In the case of Ozone, given the clientele, you might as well consider the slope above the rock a deathzone. At either end of DZ/FS it's a debatable point, but make no mistake that being above the rock at either crag is a very dangerous affair on par with the Butte.

[LostCamKenny]

my attention span is tre-limited and my time precious - anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2?

ok, i explain... no there is too much. i summarize... prince humperdink is going to marry buttercup in little less than half an hour...

[kevbone]

[ivan]

awww...probably wasn't jim then...perhaps a doppleganger? the real jim is currently being held in captivity on the other side of alpha centauri?

[denalidave]

 

anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2?

 

 

Jim screwed up.

Rock Police - Chop. My crag, my rules. What we have here, is a failure to co-mun-i-cate. Kiss & make up. Everybody happy again. Now we can go back to bashing the MAN and all that the "system" represents. (That was my take on it anyway.)

[el jefe]

looks like you guys had some decent weather down in yosemite, ivan. how were the temps?

[G-spotter]

anyone capable of condensing htis thread to a paragraph or 2?

 

the typical pdx circlejerk

[crimper]

what a twit.

i mean, what wit.

[ivan]

looks like you guys had some decent weather down in yosemite, ivan. how were the temps?

certainly cooler than the 110 temps of last july

 

sunday was glorious - wonderfully warm in the sun and climbed in shorts and tshirt but ended up in shorts and downjacket when i landed in the shade and the wind started howling - full moon and gorgeous night on dinner ledge but monday high clouds led to shrieking winds and by midnight driving cold rain - very happy to resolve the awful stuck rope from dinner ledge before all that shit went down!

 

a buncha driving for only 2 days of clambering but the respite of sun and white granite made it worthwhile

[Corduroy Man]

This is so crazy! I can't belive it, I am new to the online climbing message board thing and this is just crazy how rude you guys can be. I hope when I get a chance to climb with some of you bad ass guys there is no drama! Comeon now were all grown ups, a lot this thread sounds like a bunch of kids whining! Seriously ROCK ON!

 

 

Edited April 1, 2010 by Corduroy Man

[justinp]

This is so crazy! I can't belive it, I am new to the online climbing message board thing and this is just crazy how rude you guys can be. I hope when I get a chance to climb with some of you bad ass guys there is no drama! Comeon now were all grown ups, a lot this thread sounds like a bunch of kids whining! Seriously ROCK ON!

 

I don't think anyone takes any of it to serious (or at least I don't). It's a farce right Kirk

 

As Ivan pointed out at one point we usually don't call each other cock smokers in person