Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

[512dude]

Climbing over at the Gun Show and jumped on a couple of newer lines not in the guide. This is what we thought they were and the 10+ was short but sweet. Note that GS3 is in the guide.

 

Is there any place where the newer local 38 routes are being recorded? Maybe someone can start a Wiki page for Exit 38 and related routes.

 

[Rad]

Cool. There's an excellent new 11b (Tea Time) that takes a line just right of an 11c down the hill (11c shares an anchor with the super soft 10c). CC.com was working on developing a route wiki. Not sure where that stands.

[512dude]

Rad

 

have you done the second pitch to the routes shown in the pic? It seemed a bit grim and there looked like some rock had popped off. Curious to know if it gets much traffic and if there are top anchors - couldn't see them.

 

Thx

[Rad]

Nope. I think the guide shows it as a short 10d but it didn't look appealing when I was up there a year ago. So I don't know much. I've never seen a climb at X38 or X32 without top anchors as most were bolted on rappel...so wear your helment and go for it and let us know.

[512dude]

There is another new route just left of Rat Face on the Deception Wall. 10 clips about 11- is the claim.

 

Anyone know what the route 2 left of Ellie Sweet Kiss on Middle Eastern Block is? 5 bolts

[RJRiha]

There is another new route just left of Rat Face on the Deception Wall. 10 clips about 11- is the claim.

 

Anyone know what the route 2 left of Ellie Sweet Kiss on Middle Eastern Block is? 5 bolts

 

Are you referring to the 10c/d short roof route with the uber-closely spaced bolts? If so, it is called 'Hurricane'.

[markwebster]

Hurricane huh? Cool name. It feels more like 10a or b. Ellies is much longer and more sustained, with more exposure. Really fun roof move on hurricane. Like the belly flop finish on Canary.

[RJRiha]

Hurricane huh? Cool name. It feels more like 10a or b. Ellies is much longer and more sustained, with more exposure. Really fun roof move on hurricane. Like the belly flop finish on Canary.

 

You're probably right about it REALLY being a 10a/b. The c/d rating is from the bolter. Supposedly the original proposed rating was 11a (quite a bit of difference between 10a and 11a).

 

These are x38 grades at their finest. Have you done the route to the right of Tunnel of Love (can't remember the name). It's 10b in the book, but felt no harder than 5.9.

[markwebster]

yes, that one is awkward, but only for a few feet. Definitely a soft 10b.

[512dude]

The route left of Rat Face is in Burdo's EXIT 38 guide (1996, Rhinotopia Productions) but when I looked for it back when there were no bolts on it. Spoke to Bryan about it and he recalled not bolting it 'yet'. Looks like someone else got to it recently.

 

Bryan called the route Black Market and offered a couple ratings 5.9 and 5.12a/b. Sort of indicates to me he hadn't finished it and maybe didn't update his draft before releasing his guide.

Edited July 12, 2010 by 512dude

[LUCKY]

The route left of Rat Face is in Burdo's EXIT 38 guide (1996, Rhinotopia Productions) but when I looked for it back when there were no bolts on it. Spoke to Bryan about it and he recalled not bolting it 'yet'. Looks like someone else got to it recently.

 

Bryan called the route Black Market and offered a couple ratings 5.9 and 5.12a/b. Sort of indicates to me he hadn't finished it and maybe didn't update his draft before releasing his guide.

 

Bryan’s route left of rat face called Black Market was never put up and Smoot’s book Washington rock climbing has a route that does not exist as 5.9 copied from Bryan’s book …plagiarism?

I have some abandoned anchors in that area if anyone is look’n for a new route

The new route is La Veda Locomotive 5.11+ FA Ricky Martin/Rusty Smith

 

[RolonRolon]

Yeah, that's the new one Rusty and I put up. I think it's one of the better ones at Exit 38 and would love to hear some peoples' feedback as it's my first time putting up a new climb and am fuzzy on the grading. I'd say between 5.10 and 11b/c.

 

If I get a chance, I'll put up a picture of the climb.

[RolonRolon]

Pic of my girlfriend at the crux roof move. Nice crimper to the big 'ol horn.

[summitchaserCJB]

very nice.

[LUCKY]

Pic of my girlfriend at the crux roof move. Nice crimper to the big 'ol horn.

 

Dude you are new to this site I'll show you how to post your pic's

When you guys told me you fix'd a draw under the roof I though it was like old junk not first class stuff, way to go guys :tup:...destined to be a classic

[MrGecko]

That is quite a point spread on a potential rating - 6 grades.

 

Thanks for the work on the route!

 

 

Yeah, that's the new one Rusty and I put up. I think it's one of the better ones at Exit 38 and would love to hear some peoples' feedback as it's my first time putting up a new climb and am fuzzy on the grading. I'd say between 5.10 and 11b/c.

 

If I get a chance, I'll put up a picture of the climb.

[Rafael_H]

Pic of my girlfriend at the crux roof move. Nice crimper to the big 'ol horn.

 

What's that orange stuff in the upper left corner?

[Quarryographer]

Well we're still working on a solid consensus. So far five strong climbers that I know have done it. The majority so far is 11b, but I've heard the range from 10d to 11c. I guess it's a style thing. One thing is for sure, everyone who has sent it loves it! Get on it!

And btw, Burdos climb black market is 10 feet west, when you get to the ledge under the roof look west and you can see a directional bolt cleverly placed.

 

Rusty

[RJRiha]

From reading this thread, it is not entirely clear what area of x38 this new 11x route is in. Could someone please clarify?

[MrGecko]

Malcolm - see 512's earlier post:

 

There is another new route just left of Rat Face on the Deception Wall. 10 clips about 11- is the claim.

 

This is the north facing wall up above the old railway line and between the Change Creek and Hall Creek trestles

Edited July 27, 2010 by MrGecko

[MrGecko]

Climbed at the "new" Shakespeare wall yesterday and found it a bit dirty. Not sure how much traffic it has seen and pulled a hold off Macbeth.

 

I did see a route on the way up to the wall across the talus that looks new. Anyone have any beta to share on that one?

[Rad]

Climbed at the "new" Shakespeare wall yesterday and found it a bit dirty. Not sure how much traffic it has seen and pulled a hold off Macbeth.

 

I did see a route on the way up to the wall across the talus that looks new. Anyone have any beta to share on that one?

 

Thanks for getting out there and for the update. MacBeth is very solid rock except for one band between the slab and steep face. We cleaned that as much as we could, but stopped short of a full-on mining effort. Hopefully you got on Midsummer Night's dream, the best route there. It's on the far right and traverses under and then over a diagonalling roof. I haven't been up in that area for a bit, but I remember anchors on a wall on your right as you're heading up the trail. Didn't look particularly appealing, but maybe you're thinking of another line.

 

 

[Otto]

The OP said:

Is there any place where the newer local 38 routes are being recorded? Maybe someone can start a Wiki page for Exit 38 and related routes.

In the Garth Bruce guidebook, he says to check for route updates on the website: info@northbendrock.com

So I had high hopes for some good info there, but sadly it is not kept up to date. It's rather a shame, since he has built a nice format; it looks ready to add stuff to. There is a nice b/w photo of Endless Bliss, though...

[Rad]

GB did updates after the first edition. Not much since then. Several folks are contemplating writing new I90 corridor guides, but talk is cheap.

[dom]

Thanks for putting this new route up ricky and rusty! I havn't tried it yet, but it looks great. (I'm the guy that talked to you two when you were cleaning it a few weeks ago.) Does anyone know any other names or grades of the new routes at x38. I did the steep line across from the tunnel of love, I thought 11c/d, there is also a R-L bolted traverse there that looked fun. I also did the dirty bolted line just up from the block of doom, I thought about 10b, but wouldn't reccomend it. I did hurricane and it felt 10c to me, the mantle isn't obvious. I've also noticed a few more new routes/random bolts at Motherland and across from Squishy Bell. Anybody have any more info on these or any other new routes at x38?