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How to start to place own Pro and lead trad


KingsMM

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I would like to start to lead trad routes. I have lead a few bolted climbs at smith rock. How should start to learn it. Do i need to clean for someone? I don't know anyone i could do that for.

Can i get a book on it. Or do you think someone needs to teach me. Basicly i want info. on how to learn. any comments are helpful.

thanks

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quote:

Originally posted by Highlander:

Find a good mentor and learn as much as you can from them. Clean lots of routes learning the different gear placements. Start on easy climbs placing lots of pro.

I'll second that and add that books help and practice as much as possible at placing gear while on the ground. Starting with easy routes where there are really good stances to place gear from is key for those beginning trad leads.

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quote:

Originally posted by Chepe:

drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear.

yeah crazy jamie!!!!!!

 

i dunno if he is still alive....anyone seen him at index recently???

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quote:

Originally posted by Chepe:

drop some acid and lead Godzilla. I personally know one dude who did this (first lead) with a set of nuts and he still lives from what I hear.

I'm shocked you would post such irresponsible advice to a beginning leader. What's next free soloing? [laf][Wink][Wazzup]

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