Mt Hood Climbers Guide

[billbob]

The new "Mt Hood Climbers Guide" is approaching completion of the first draft but we still have a few route descriptions not yet done. All route descriptions in the book are written by a climber with experience on the route and subsequently edited by yours truly. Route descriptions are also peer-reviewed by at least two other climbers having done the route.

 

We are looking for climbers who have experience on the following routes:

 

Cooper Spur

Newton Clark HW

Chisolm Trail

North Face Cleaver

Eliot Headwall

 

The book will be published in full color and should be a darn nice addition to the currently available literature.

 

All contributing climbers will be published as such and will receive a whopping 2% of profits and a free copy. There are today in excess of 25 contributors. In some cases there are more than one climber working on the route, for example the Yocum Ridge route is being done by Fred Beckey, Jim Wickwire and Laura Freeman.

 

Hopefully we can afford to throw a sweet publishing party as well, no promises.

 

Finally, we are always happy to review any great climbing photos on Hood. I promise to credit all pics to the photographer.

 

Thanks!

 

Bill Mullee

Portland, OR

bmullee@gmail.com

 

[jon]

Very cool Bill! We will give you free advertising for this and will chip in on the party.

[billbob]

Thanks, Jon !

 

[ivan]

i'll write the cooper spur one firya bill - shiiiit, can't i throw in a fun anecodote 'bout you on that one too?

[billbob]

We could use my pics of you heading up the Spur, climbing into the clouds, right before the thunder and rain had me running back to the climbers hut.

 

 

Looking up Cooper Spur and feeling un-manly:

 

 

Looking down and feeling anxious:

 

 

View from hut, drinking heavily:

 

 

[ivan]

man, that was a fun weekend! hanging out in an ancient leaking refrigarator! didn't you not have a foam pad or sleeping bag or something crazy like that? i recall the attempt to start a fire in the shelter's dicked up fireplace was a total failure

[billbob]

badass climber guys don't bring pads or sleeping bags 'cuz they don't leave them in the car at the trailhead and uhhh, I mean they don't uh forget them and they really don't need them even if they did forget them. And if they totally space and forget their bag then they obviously didn't need it in the first place because they are serious mountaineers totally capable of sleeping on the snow in the rain while someone else is warm and cozy and singing horribly off-key.

[ARob]

Can't wait for the guide. I was wondering if there is going to be any Jefferson routes in the book. I know there are some good headwall routes but finding good info can be difficult. I wish I could get my hands on my own copy of Oregon High.

There are publishing houses that print the books as they are ordered, which I see as being a viable future for climbing guides, especially very specific ones. This publishing model gets the author a much higher percentage of the profits. Just wanted to share the thoughts and wish you luck.

[billbob]

Thanks for your comments. I can't wait to get this thing published!

 

Any thoughts on publishing are greatly appreciated, as we have no firm commitments thus far and it is 90% finished.

 

Producing a really good climbing guide requires the commitment of substantial amounts of time and money. I hope to get the process refined to the point where I can do two Guides per year. Finding the best people and putting together a great team is not a trivial task. Basically this is a full-time job.

 

BTW, I found a copy of Jeff Thomas' "Oregon High" on Amazon for $40.

Edited May 22, 2010 by billbob

[billbob]

Dear Readers,

 

Last Spring began a legal battle with my ex, she is asking the Multnomah county court for permission to move our 10 y.o. daughter to Jerusalem, along w/ a request for a lot more money (have been giving her $2,500/month for last 5 years).

 

It was interesting to find in her evidence a thread of mine posted above, between me and Ivan. Guess I shoulda anticipated it. I don't think it damaging, actually seems funny and quite "human". The feeling of being stalked is bad enough. I know we posters should remember that everything posted is public info, obviously I forgot.

 

Needless to say, finishing the book has taken a back seat to saving my little girl. The relocation issue will be resolved by the judge this Friday (Aug 20). The book is still moving, albeit slowly. Sorry for the delay.

 

Bill

 

[JosephH]

Good luck with that, for sure. I'm a stepfather and we purposefully stayed in PDX so my stepdaughter could grow up near her father. I can't imagine anyone thinking separating that bond could somehow be good for a child. More power to you.

[Plaidman]

My heart goes out to you I have a not so nice ex too! She has even tried to use my trip reports and blog postings in court as evidence. She once found out I was planning on going to Yosemite by seeing a partner request online. WOW! Prayers go out to you and yours. May the judge see it your way.

 

Why is patience a virtue?

Because not many people have it.

 

Plaidman

[plaidman's ex]

just a tip, guys. billbob pointed out that everything you post is public, and when posting about ex's it's a good idea to remember that someday your kids might read what you wrote. if you have kids, complaints about the ex are better posted anonymously on a divorce support bbs than in a public venue where your real names are associated to your screen names. not saying you said anything insulting about your ex, billbob, you stuck to the facts, but it's something to think about.

 

that said, billbob, judges don't tend to allow the custodial parent to relocate a child so that the non-custodial parent doesn't get their parenting time, if the non-custodial parent has been a stable and involved parent. climbing in your spare time is irrelevant to your parental commitment and it's weird your ex would bring this thread to court, unless it's to try to show you have an undisclosed income source that would change your child support obligation (although $2500 a month is a nice chunk of change, and kudos to you for providing for your daughter). I hope you get a fair judge and a good resolution tomorrow.

 

as far as trip reports and blog posts, I don't actually care what plaidman does on his own time and on his own dime, but when there are questions of why a guy won't pay child support, but can afford to travel and buy gear, then the things posted online may end up having relevance in a courtroom, so into evidence they go. printouts of my website were brought in, too, although all they show is that I have a hobby. since my hobby doesn't take priority over my kids, it makes no difference to me to see my website in evidence.

 

and for a bit of perspective, following the blogs and bbs posts isn't about gathering evidence. I know I've been painted a certain way. it's about getting a heads up before we have to tighten up the belts and do without things like food, school clothes or even medication. it's not stalking, it's survival.

[Winter]

cc.com = the frickin jerry springer show lately.

[billcoe]

Looks like you're still stalking. I don't believe you are Plaidmans ex though, as showing up here like this would be a total 100 percent crazy stalking bitch move. What ya gonna do next? Kill his rabbit?

 

Plaidman doesn't have any money. He sold me a piece of of his gear so that he could afford to share the gas for a Yosemite trip ...which he didn't end up taking. I am still holding it for when he wishes to redeem it. As you know, he's not a rich man other than being rich in spirit and soul. Still, it's good advice to all of us. Like you, I too am wishing Bill well in court and through what is undoubtedly a stressful time.

 

just a tip, guys. billbob pointed out that everything you post is public, and when posting about ex's it's a good idea to remember that someday your kids might read what you wrote. if you have kids, complaints about the ex are better posted anonymously on a divorce support bbs than in a public venue where your real names are associated to your screen names. not saying you said anything insulting about your ex, billbob, you stuck to the facts, but it's something to think about.

 

that said, billbob, judges don't tend to allow the custodial parent to relocate a child so that the non-custodial parent doesn't get their parenting time, if the non-custodial parent has been a stable and involved parent. climbing in your spare time is irrelevant to your parental commitment and it's weird your ex would bring this thread to court, unless it's to try to show you have an undisclosed income source that would change your child support obligation (although $2500 a month is a nice chunk of change, and kudos to you for providing for your daughter). I hope you get a fair judge and a good resolution tomorrow.

 

as far as trip reports and blog posts, I don't actually care what plaidman does on his own time and on his own dime, but when there are questions of why a guy won't pay child support, but can afford to travel and buy gear, then the things posted online may end up having relevance in a courtroom, so into evidence they go. printouts of my website were brought in, too, although all they show is that I have a hobby. since my hobby doesn't take priority over my kids, it makes no difference to me to see my website in evidence.

 

and for a bit of perspective, following the blogs and bbs posts isn't about gathering evidence. I know I've been painted a certain way. it's about getting a heads up before we have to tighten up the belts and do without things like food, school clothes or even medication. it's not stalking, it's survival.

[stevetimetravlr]

as far as trip reports and blog posts, I don't actually care what plaidman does on his own time and on his own dime, but when there are questions of why a guy won't pay child support, but can afford to travel and buy gear, then the things posted online may end up having relevance in a courtroom, so into evidence they go. printouts of my website were brought in, too, although all they show is that I have a hobby. since my hobby doesn't take priority over my kids, it makes no difference to me to see my website in evidence.

I haven't seen Plaidman take any trips, except to Smith Rocks. and I paid for the gas and the food on those two trips because I know he is kind of down and out right now. I haven't noticed him with any new gear, what new gear does he have Ms. Ex-Plaidman? The guy hardly has a pot to piss in, and all I know is he is always on the hunt for work. There are allot of people in survival mode right now with the economy, and because you can't squeeze blood out of a turnip is no reason for Scott to roll over and die and give up climbing. You talk a good line and I don't know any of the particulars in the Plaidmans ex-relationship, but if you have a job maybe you should be the one paying the alimony and child support. On other words, if he can't find a job, maybe you should go to work. Sometimes thats hard for a prima donna to accept....

[Mr. Hands]

just a tip, guys. billbob pointed out that everything you post is public, and when posting about ex's it's a good idea to remember that someday your kids might read what you wrote. if you have kids, complaints about the ex are better posted anonymously on a divorce support bbs than in a public venue where your real names are associated to your screen names. not saying you said anything insulting about your ex, billbob, you stuck to the facts, but it's something to think about.

 

that said, billbob, judges don't tend to allow the custodial parent to relocate a child so that the non-custodial parent doesn't get their parenting time, if the non-custodial parent has been a stable and involved parent. climbing in your spare time is irrelevant to your parental commitment and it's weird your ex would bring this thread to court, unless it's to try to show you have an undisclosed income source that would change your child support obligation (although $2500 a month is a nice chunk of change, and kudos to you for providing for your daughter). I hope you get a fair judge and a good resolution tomorrow.

 

as far as trip reports and blog posts, I don't actually care what plaidman does on his own time and on his own dime, but when there are questions of why a guy won't pay child support, but can afford to travel and buy gear, then the things posted online may end up having relevance in a courtroom, so into evidence they go. printouts of my website were brought in, too, although all they show is that I have a hobby. since my hobby doesn't take priority over my kids, it makes no difference to me to see my website in evidence.

 

and for a bit of perspective, following the blogs and bbs posts isn't about gathering evidence. I know I've been painted a certain way. it's about getting a heads up before we have to tighten up the belts and do without things like food, school clothes or even medication. it's not stalking, it's survival.

 

 

 

HOLY SHIT!!!! BEST POST EVER ON CC.COM!!!

[pink]

it would of been so much better if she had postscripted it "plaidman's ex OUT"...

[Mr. Hands]

it would of been so much better if she had postscripted it "plaidman's ex OUT"...

 

A grainy video looking up at her nose hairs for 20 min would be ever better!

 

[Plaidman]

So you guys like my videos.

[billbob]

Trial extended to conclude this Wed afternoon. Last Friday they brought up the excerpt of my blog posts w/ Ivan above, in particular my photo caption "View from the hut, drinking heavily. The idea apparently is to make me look like a bad dad because I consume alcohol. I was able to mention the fact that we didn't actually have anything to drink but after being chased down Cooper Spur by a sudden thunderstorm I sure did want one.

 

 

 

[billcoe]

HOLY SHIT!!!! BEST POST EVER ON CC.COM!!!

 

Super, and if you're that enamored, maybe you should check out the web site www.bitchfromhell.com. You can also get your former MS Paul McCartney and former MS Billy Joel fixes there at the same time. Or one can skip all that and go directly to CC.coms own Marc LeClerc who offers up his version of Heloise, Dear Abby and Ann Landers advice rolled up into one. Marcs learning and advice center for lonely men

[Plaidman]

Super, and if you're that enamored, maybe you should check out the web site www.bitchfromhell.com. You can also get your former MS Paul McCartney and former MS Billy Joel fixes there at the same time.

 

Tried to go to site. This is what I got.

 

"Sorry, we can't find "www.bitchfromhell.com". We suggest that you check the spelling of the web address or search above."

 

 

[billcoe]

 

I make successful joke? No?

 

 

Seriously, divorces are often one of the most painful things a person will ever experience. The 3 most important things for most of us is relationships, money and health. They are all upset and threatened in a rancorous milieu tempered with fear of the the unknown in the process. I mean no harm to anyone with my attempt at humor there.

 

Regards to all

[Water]

any update on the release of this aforementioned mt hood climbers guide?