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Mt Hood Climbers Guide


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saw the book for the first time today - beautiful work their bill-bob, something to jot against the tally of the Cruel Bog when yer jig is up! :)


enjoyed the history part particularly - seems like it needs inclusion of the cloud cap inn though, which i know not in detail beyond myth n' legend :)


can't help but gape at the godawful absurdity of seeing me name n' noxious mug on the same page as the Pantheon of Modern scrambly-scrambly heroes :lmao:

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I thought the best from the Modern Pantheon was "Cerebral Dream".


"I met up with Steve Elder to attempt a new line on the Black Spider of Mt. Hood. It was July. With ice axes, crampons and plastic mountaineering boots, we climbed 5.9 sulfur...The rock came off in our hands...Yocum Ridge the following week was considerably more straightforward in comparison".

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Better late than never but I bought a copy of da book today (My local shop did not stock it). Quite the tome and nicely done. Great photos and text. Like others I did find a few errors and omissions.


The FA information is out of place on pages: 69, 145, 149, 155, and 162. Typically the FA is listed after the approach notes. For the above it is listed first. The ordering should be consistent.



The labels are sometimes after the route name (page 75) sometimes before (page 92): "Devil's Kitchen Variation 1 (4a)" vs "(7a) Regular Route" they should be consistent. The latter "(number) name" is better.


The route on the Newton Clark Headwall is missing (to the right of Wy'East).


The FA information for Illumination Rock is missing except for the true FA.


There is a variation on the Reid Headwall that many have done and I think is worth noting that comes off of 8a. I'll post up a picture later.


The routes/variations for the Coe and Ladd Glaciers and Puplit Rock are absent. And as Wayne noted the Castle Crags routes are missing.


For clarity on page 150 labels for Elliot Headwall Routes 14d and 14e should be present. The original Elliot Head Wall route on page 153 is listed as 17e it should be 14e.


For the FA information on the Elliot Headwall I would suggest that the format style for the Devil's Kitchen Headwall is used (with the number first though). That is the FA information is not listed in the opening page on 149 but with the FA for each of the variations listed accordingly.


(14a) Pencil

FA: Unclimbed



(14b) Cathedral Ramp

FA: Unclimbed



(14c) The Ravine

FA: Dave Bohn, Art Maki, and Al Combs 1958 (Musiyeko, Blagoveshchenskaya modern ascent 2012)



(14d) Center Cirque Direct

FA: Wayne Wallace and Tim Olsen 1989



(14e) Right Cirque

FA: Russ McJury and Joe Leuthold 1938



I would drop the the note (variation #7 in Oregon High) on page 153. JT's book is not mentioned elsewhere so it is out of context.


Last but not least of the picture of me on page 165 is not Copper Spur but the finish for the North Face Gully.

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