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randyjgoat

First time out west,Things to bring?

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I'm not at all new to climbing,but I have never climbed in the west before.I've done some mountaineering in Ecuador but that's it for glacier experience.I will be going to Mt.Olympus in eary August.Heading in on the Hoh river trail.My questions are these.What weight[temp.rating ]bag should I bring?Is 20 too much or to little?Will light plastic boots[Koflach Paras],or my leather ice boots[salomon super guides] be too heavy on the glacier?How about using a mid weight hiking boot with strap on crampons,maybe with a super gator?Should I have full on gortex bibs/jacket or lighter weight rain/wind gear?What is the coldest temps I could expect to get on the Blue Glacier?Any thoughts on a Megamid /bivy sack combo[will be 3 people]for Glacier Meadows?Any info will be greatly appreciated. [big Grin]

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It shouldn't be too cold, but prepare for rain, and not east coast storm and clear type of rain. I have done summer climbs in the Olympics that started in a light rain and 4 days later it is still a light rain. The Hoh is rainforest if you get out of there dry count yourself lucky.

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Bag: A 20F bag is a hair too much... but probably alright. (25-30 is better, like always - depending on how cold you sleep)

Boots: As long as you bring something really light to wear on the loooong trail, you will be fine with either choice... though plastics/ice boots are overkill. There is some rock scrambling to the summit(s).

Gortex: is always brought along here on the left coast... though if you have a great weather window forecast, you should forgo the bibs. Go with lighter pants and gore jacket (I wear schoeler fabric pants for most conditions).

Tent: Megamid+bivy is always a fine combo for 3 people.

Cold Temps: I suppose if you really want hell-fire worst-case, you might see 0 F overnight. But really I'd be surprised with anything much less than freezing.

 

GS

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The Olympus approach is a long one--if you're planning on doing the approach and the climbing in the same footwear, I’d suggest you go with your leather (Salomon) boots.

 

I’ve never been a fan of the “mid weight hiking boot with strap on crampons” alternative. Generally speaking, this isn’t a very good idea, unless the boot’s sole is quite rigid--without quite a bit of rigidity, strap-on crampons have a tendency to come off.

 

My choice of clothing would be something like this (just my personal preference--works for me, maybe not you): Long-sleeve polypro shirt, wind-resistant vest, waterproof shell, with either a fleece or down jacket in my pack to throw on if I start getting cold. On the bottom, polypro long undies, and light water-resistant pants--if it’s windy, or wet, I have waterproof pants in my pack that I can zip over everything else.

 

Coldest temperature--don’t know--it can vary tremendously. Considering that Olympus isn’t that high, and since you’ll be going in August--I’d personally feel comfortable with a 15 deg. bag; however, you if you find you usually sleep cold, you may want to go warmer.

 

I’d go for the bivy--remember that the approach is long and a bivy sack will save some weight. If you do decided to bring a tent, just make sure your friends carry it. [big Grin]

 

Iceguy

[big Drink]

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Thanks for the quick responses.Most answers are confirming what I figured would be right[or most likely best choice] but every area offers different conditions.I do appreciate all the intellegence[to make up for my own lack of]that I can get.

Son of Cave man,the Fleshlite never came to mind ,but if pack weight permits that could be lighter and more entertaining than the deluxe monopoly board I was going to bring.The sharing thing could get a little sticky though. [Eek!][big Grin]

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Hey another question for you.In the North East our black fly season is still going on ,but slowing down in august.These little[compared to bats I guess]buggers have ruined many a trip for many people.Do you have the same or similar problems in the North West?

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The bugs out here ain't shit. Maybe bring some bugdope just to run the occasional little bastard out. I've never needed the shit, myself.

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mosquitos! I am usually fine with a lightweight longsleved shirt and a hat with a misting of bug repellent. My wife seems to get eaten no matter what she uses.

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That's cool.I work outside,often in the woods[had 4 ticks today],and am pretty tolerant of moderate bug rage.There is no tolerance when it comes to the feasting black hoarde.What is Maines state bird?....The Black Fly.

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JGoat, I started climbing on the East Coast, and the bugs out here really are nothing compared to black fly season there. A little OFF or something, but no 100% DEET required

 

Gordon S and iceguy had good beta, I would suggest you try to go as light as humanly possible - no plastic boots, use aluminum crampons, leave the bibs behind and get lightweight wind pants, get a real lightweight shell, eat astronaut food, use megamid or bivy or Bibler, etc. The Hoh River trail is long and flat, minimize your pain == more enjoyable trip

 

Alex

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the Maine State Bird is a shitbag. I will take months on end of rain rather than a month climbing Maine in the spring and summer.

As for whatever this thread was about? Go lite, go fast, and bring a windproof lighter for uninterupted bubbler service...

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Hey Gidget,you're here. [big Grin] Right on.How are the Black flys in your neighbor hood? I just got chased away from some after work bouldering last night.Black flys don't bite,theySUCK!!

 

Alex,yeah I'm trying to go as light as I can.Just kind of limited by budget for new gear.Also want to find out what I really need and what I don't.Some stuff I'm replacing ,some I have to make do.I think the Megamyd is in our plans.

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Randy,

We generally don't get black flies except for near the lake. I was recently in Northern Ontario where the evil little bastards are starting to appear. One of my old ice climbing partners moved out to La Grande Oregon. I will ask him if has done anything in the area you are heading to. I was hoping to get out there this summer to do some climbing. Later [big Grin][Cool] Gidget

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Hmm... I don't know what people are talking about when they say the flies here are nothing compared to the east coast!

They *can* be unbearable. Once last summer, sometime in July I think, they were horrible at Cascade Pass.... as bad as I've ever experienced in the 23 years I lived on the East coast. The instant you stopped, you were covered in biting flies. Even running did not keep them off you.

 

Also we once bailed on climbing Hozomeen (WA/BC border) because of totally intense mosquitoes (again July).

And once on Mt Logan in September they were pretty nasty.

 

Most of the time they're not too much of a problem though. There doesn't seem to be a particular "season" like there is out east, it's more random. And varies tremendously from spot to spot.

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I second that, ran into some pretty bad flies up in Boston Basin last summer...even above the tree line! At leats the majority were the little kind, and the big ones were slow enough to catch and sacrafice to the fly catcher gods.

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vicious black flys encountered in the Mt. Index neighborhood late one summer. bit right through my t-shirt. [Mad]

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Here in the East we are VERY limited to above tree line.Only have it in a few areas.I've ussually tried to get up early and get up high before the get active usually around 9 or 10 when things warm up.Almost better to come back down by headlamp than to deal with them. [Eek!]

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I don't know if I will be able to get new boots for the trip,but if I do I'm open to suggestions.La sportiva Makalus are pretty easy to come by in my area.Is there anything else that could be recommended more?This is with the hope of having only one pair of footware.

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Hey Randy

try Salomon pro ice or pro rock comfy boots with the rock being better for allaround [geek][Wink]

 

[ 05-17-2002, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

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on Cham3s for about $210 delivered in the US $300 plus delivery and/or taxes

so far these are rocking boots [big Grin][big Grin][Cool]

BTW the bugs problem is gone once the weather is breezy and cooler like early morning or at night also when u break the tree line also think about misty rain (no need for GoreTex) and very lightweight approach torward gear (like Schoeller top, aluminum crampon for up to 55 snow slog, DMM fly or a like for anything tech, hex and nut instead of cams and pitons etc) [Wazzup]

 

[ 05-18-2002, 02:50 PM: Message edited by: IceIceBaby ]

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