gschryer2

Very Sad, Galen was my photographic idol and inspiration. Through his photography, I believe I was inspired and lead into the world of climbing. Two things I consider to have been primary passions in my life. Though I have never met him, I would say he has had a profound affect on my life's direction. He is a great loss.

Last February I fell a LONG way from the top of a climb and am lucky to be alive. I am sure I did something stupid (like at least not having any of pro in for the last 40 feet or so),.... but I have no memory of completing the climb or anything else after. Probably a good thing! Bummer thing is I have no words of wisdom to learn from on this matter. GS

quote: Originally posted by Attitude: Speaking of Canada and guns .... That IS hillarious... especially since my Dad was on the first crew on that ship when they transported it from Halifax (where it was built) to Victoria (in about 1996). I am sending him the link for kicks. Thanks.

Later that afternoon, a boyscout troupe shows up... very scarry scene. "leader1-to-leader2:"How are we going to get the rope up there? leader2-to-leader1: "Oh, we'll jsut throw it up to someone already on top!" Later still... Visualize: "leaders" using hip/shoulder belays. 8 year old kids standing on platform above the "slab", unanchored, with last draw clipped on slab, below his feet. Wearing hastily tied webbing harness. "Leader/belayer": "Just stand still!". Kid: "How do I get down?" "Leader": "sit down and lower yourself over the edge", Kid: "I'm scared" Me thinking to myself: "No kidding!" ... all this with no adult supervision up on the ledge! Note to self: Don't EVER let your kids be in boy-scouts or similar yokel organization! [ 08-07-2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: gschryer2 ]

quote: Originally posted by gschryer2: I'll come up with a climbing related one soon.... Ok, I was thinking about starting a post on this a while back... related to the recent rise in gumby accidents... Marymoor Climbing Structure: Watching a couple rope up for leading the pinnacle (left hand side). Man "looks" competent. Woman, not a climber, weight included. All gear is shinny and new. Clearly struggling with rope, harness, grigri, anchoring etc... Other climbers about to boulder across lower face of pinnacle... Woman (In irritated tone): "EXCUSE ME, we are going to be climbing here!" Ten minutes later, they are ready to start. No, Wait, Grigri is threaded backwards.... Leader starts out. Struggles to first bolt. Wife looks worried. Leader makes it to first bolt -Puts finger through hanger. Struggles to exchange draw for finger. Hangs onto draw, clips rope. Doesn't this guy know he is on one of the more difficult climbs at Marymoore? Should I recommend an easier climb? No, its considered rude to impose your concerns on others... I watch with baited breath... Leader struggles to make next moves. Belayer has ten feet of slack in rope. Leader gives up on first bolt, side steps to the right, finger in RH bolt hanger. No, don't use a new draw, unclip first draw and transfer to RH hanger... requiring another biner-finger swap while in tenuous position. I walk away to do a climb to ease my tension. Several minutes later I return to see if they are still alive... Leader has somehow got around onto the left hand arete (Draws cleaned off face). And he is finally nearing the top of the climb. (His climbing looks ok, but his concept of leading is what is severely lacking) I can't recall, and you don't want to hear the remaining details, but suffice to say, Leader's management of the rope/anchor at the top was also excrutiatingly painful to watch. Now how is he going to get down? He plans to be lowered, ignorant of obvious pendulum around the arete... and completely oblivious that his belayer has NO IDEA how to use the Grigri to lower. I watch for a while longer as she gets frustrated, lowering/jerking the leader's way down the route, 1 foot at a time. I give up, I can't bear watching accidents waiting to happen. So I go over and ask the belayer if she knows what she is doing? Belayer: "No, he never taught me how to use this thing!" Me: "I can see that!" I take over and lower leader to the ground. Leader: "Thanks, its her first time" Me: "I can see that! Please go take a lesson somewhere before she kills you." I walk away.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: "why can't i bring my gun into Canada?" And my favorite, US/Canada question: (Sorry, not climbing related, but Dru inspired me. American: Do you guys drive on the other side of the road in Canada? Me (Canadian living in States): Yeah, you should see the giant lane interchanges at all the border crossings! I'll come up with a climbing related one soon....

quote: Originally posted by klenke: 4. Boston Peak (Cascade Pass), I didn't think East Face was that bad and hence its bad reputation overblown Are you P Klenke? Anyway, I agree the way up the E Face of Boston is loose, but not too bad. The scarry part was rapelling off the top. rock falling on your partner below or chopping the rope were highly possible outcomes. I don't recall the anchor block being all that comforting either. G

quote: Originally posted by klenke: Yes, Gordon, you've got the right P. Klenke. - - - Paul Cool, how's it going? I can't seem to PM you, so drop me a line sometime. Did you hear about my ride this winter? Since then, I haven't had much opportunity to check out Chosse-piles this season. later, G

Golden Ears - in Golden Ears Provincial park. I remember reading the park pamphlet describing the serious mountaineering effort it requires.... you know, all the regular scare tactics governments are required to disclaim... It was a couple years later that I finally felt the confidence to be able to tackle it. Even then, I recall it being a long hike with a snow field and a rock scramble (class 2) to finish. The coolest memory is of my partner screaming down the snowfield in an out-of-control sitting glissade then miraculously popping up onto his feet and back down onto his ass in order to avoid a potentially ass-reaming rock protrusion! G.

quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne: I believe there are three or four major loopholes, and I think they have been successfully challenged. 2) Using forest land for free speech and/or protest purposes. I believe this does require more blatant evidence of protest activity. Plaster your car with anti-fee demo propaganda, and have anti-fee demo literature in case confronted by USFS enforcement. Somehow I missed this one in the past... why don't we all pack along a handfull of pamphlets whereever you go and "hand them out to fellow trail/crag users" - IE exchange them... If enough people do this, any given day can appear to constitute a demonstration of protest. If you are caught with ropes and rack in hand you can claim that you intend to deliver your propaganda to climbers on high.... again, with a good compliance of the demonstration between climbers and other trail users, you could actually demonstrate an exchange of propaganda material at each belay. My one concern would be non-compliance with the demonstration leading to paper liter everywhere, so... You can start a whole movement of token exchanges... no paper, but if everyone carries just one token representing your anti-fee demo position and exchange it with others... all is well, you only carry one token at a time. Maybe in the beginning you carry a stack to hand out and build critical mass... but in the end you not only safely demonstrate your protest, but you also build community awareness and widespread support. Ok, a bit of a ramble, I'm done now... G [ 07-02-2002, 10:26 AM: Message edited by: gschryer2 ]

I would have liked to see the note you wrote for Doug.... his response sounds like you burnt his ear off. There would be no reason for DG to have the hostile edge he had in his response had you made a reasonable comment to him.

quote: Originally posted by v: I am celebrating my birthday tomorrow night at the Nickerson with my friends including some fellow pub club regulars. V, Thanks for the invite... as an occasional cc lurker who skipped reading yesterday I didn't realize I would be falling into my first pub club too. Was cool to put some faces to names. I may feel more inspired to rant like the rest of them now. Happy B-day! G

quote: Originally posted by cj001f: I prefer TNF's Mountain Tent/Mountain 25 - it's a bit bigger than the Bibler which is nice for skiing trips, and when your stuck in a tent. I have a North Face VE25 that I could sell to you for $100. Its in pretty good shape - I have only used it 3-4 times in the last couple years and the previous owner also claimed minimal use. PM me if interested.

Beyond mere speculation, a little un-sexually biased photo analysis would reveal... those nimble shoulders and arms of yours, Amber, have narry a pulled on a climbing hold, nor have those slender digits dabbled in neither cascade grime nor chalk bag. I suspect most of the boys around here seek a woman with a little grit in her teeth to be fully satisfied. GS

quote: Originally posted by trask: Heh Stormin Norman, you mean to tell me you were worried about a little precip?? Shame on you. I used to have a similar bike commute to Norman's... and yeah... the three block commute in the rain is worse than a 10 mile ride since you are typically "dressed for work"... IE no special rain nor mud-stripe-rejectin wear required.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Yeah, except if you happen to fall just while you're "walking" it. Then it can be "just like taking a huge whipper". That's why I've been known to use two cams... in a leap-frog fashion.... Actually, I also tend to do this when I place a "psychological piece" and two feet later find a bomber placement. Place the new and clean the old.... repeat as necessary. Highly effective when you are running out of gear.

quote: Originally posted by msgehard: Chicagoians .... Looking for a snow and ice climb. Ideas?? I like: Sloan Pk - corkscrew route (small glacier, followed by nice rock "scramble") Mt. Daniel - Lynch Glacier. (Like Sloan, more glacier, less scramble) Buckner - SW slope. (steep snow slog) Adams - south spur will do too, if you want a big one. Sloan, Daniel and Buckner are far more scenic with a better cascades feel than any of the volcanoes. GS

quote: Originally posted by savaiusini: I was looking for some REAL info. not Ranger info. which can be wildly inaccurate. Actually, I've found the ranger info on ROAD access to be pretty reliable.... about the only reliable info you can get from them. Once you get on a trail, or worse, off-trail, I'd agree, Ranger knows NOT. GS

quote: Originally posted by philih: newbie to forum needing beta on Ingalls North Peak, South Ridge Cracks... whats a good read? See some notes I made... including rack beta. http://members.tripod.com/Schryer/1999/ingalls99.html Have fun, GS

Bag: A 20F bag is a hair too much... but probably alright. (25-30 is better, like always - depending on how cold you sleep) Boots: As long as you bring something really light to wear on the loooong trail, you will be fine with either choice... though plastics/ice boots are overkill. There is some rock scrambling to the summit(s). Gortex: is always brought along here on the left coast... though if you have a great weather window forecast, you should forgo the bibs. Go with lighter pants and gore jacket (I wear schoeler fabric pants for most conditions). Tent: Megamid+bivy is always a fine combo for 3 people. Cold Temps: I suppose if you really want hell-fire worst-case, you might see 0 F overnight. But really I'd be surprised with anything much less than freezing. GS

I'm gonna hafta go with Ottawa now... trounced the flyers in 5! (Though Detroit looks like some potential)

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: You should go. There will be at least 4 or 5 people up with us. Sounds like a Mountaineers trip to me... but that's another topic. As for Wings, Canucks.... OUCH!! I left work at 4 yesterday and the game was over by the time I got home a 4:35... Canucks in 7!

How 'bout those Canucks!!! If we're talking close enough to home, with no-one better to support, I'd say the Canucks are highly worth watching and cheering for. If you watch, I don't need to add praise for the second half of their season. Now the real problem that I'd like an answer to is: WHERE in Seattle can a guy sit and drink a beer (or several) and count on a hockey game being on the big screen instead of a baseball game. Better yet, since it's NHL play offs, where is the hang-out with at least a room half full of any team's hockey fans? Nothing irks me more during NHL playoffs than that some local pub displays a run-of-the-mill regular-season ball game over a Stanley Cup Championship NHL game. I understand the supply demand laws... but there must ba at least one cool place to watch hockey. Anyone? GS (BTW, I do go see the Ms a couple times a season. They were great to watch last year. And this year looks to promise nearly as much excitement).

The other night I went home and connected over streaming audio to the Vancouver CKNW sport radio station airing the canucks/wings game... the only way I could be a part of the game. So really the Alki? what about on the eastside... I got some results last year at the Kirkland Ale house... Maybe I'll head there today at 4PM.... Go Canucks

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: Look, Steve only brought that up because I said that the mounties only promote restoration of thier own cabins/clubhouses, etc. I still get the monthly newsletter and have yet to see a front page or any page for that matter, article about cleaning up trails, approaches or anything like it. They may require it but they don't promote it. I guess it depends on what you mean by promote. I would agree that these are not written up on Mountaineers external promotional literature. However, the basic classes have a direct component on promoting leave no trace ethics. They then go on to suggest and promote various opportunities where their conservation requirement can be satisfied. Yes the promotion of WTA is internal and directed to the students that are most likely to take part in the effort. quote: All Steve did was take my post and make it his by saying that we should support the WTA and the Access Fund by supporting the mountaineers. What the hell does that mean? If I'm going to support the WTA, which I do, I'll go to the WTA, not the mountaineers. His invitation to help support other organizations through his was idiotic. The concept of conservation and restoration of the areas they use is NOT something they promote. On these points, I suggest you re-read Steve's post. Steve wrote: quote: {.. WTA and Access Fund praise...} We invite you to join us in providing them the support they deserve. Try reading this with the idea of offering a toast at someone's wedding... If I say, "please join me in raising a pint..." I am not asking you to join my club, I am asking that you join in the spirit of the recognition offered. I really do not think you can read into any of Steve's messages that he is on a membership drive. But if I can read more clearly into some other things you have written... I think your real point is: "how can someone contradict themselves in promoting leave no trace ethics, while supporting an organization that promotes driving hordes of people into the hills." I see your point (if that is your primary point). One might take solace in this position by presuming that it is better to send the inevitable hoards to the hills with SOME notion of environmental ethics than to allow the same hordes to descend without. Same position taken in terms of safe mountaineering basics. Going beyond what the mountaineers teach in terms of both climbing skills and envirnmental ethics requires the individual to take responsibility themselves in their continued growth... The Mounties don't/won't/can't/shouldn't hold your hand forever. Just hoping to clear the air, GS.