Mt. Hood guide book

[brettinnj]

Is there a guide book for Mt.Hood? How about a topo map with climbing routes?

[Braydon]

Closest thing I've found

[Frikadeller]

Oregon High by Jeff Thomas. But it is out of print, so you have to hunt down a used copy. Ignore the jackass trying to sell a copy for $151.00

 

 

[ivan]

if billbob can turn up the fire under some asses...i done writ'up the reid!

[brettinnj]

Thanks for the info guys. I can't believe there there isn't a guide book (in print)to such a popular mountain.

 

I live in Northern NJ. Whenever there is an accident on Mt Hood, it is all over the TV news here (NYC stations). I never once heard the media talking about Mt Rainier or any other mountain. What makes Hood such a media magnet?

[ivan]

much more traffic

[billcoe]

I can't believe there there isn't a guide book (in print)to such a popular mountain.

We all use Ivan as our guidebook.

 

I never once heard the media talking about Mt Rainier or any other mountain. What makes Hood such a media magnet?

Much like a slut, it's probably the easy access. Rainer takes more planning, equipment and time as it's a larger mountain.

 

hmmm, Or it might be the Rams Head bar right there in Timberline at the 6,000 foot level. The media can move right into 4 star quarters as if on vacation then step out into the howling wind and sleet for the dramatic 2 min. broadcast about the unfortunates lost on the mt, then walk right back into the bar and warm up with a hot toddy.

 

2nd most climbed Mt in the world they say, behind Mt Fuji in Japan.

[brettinnj]

No shit, 2nd? That sucks. I was looking to climb Rainier (Nisqually Icefall)the first week of March. I had problems with my partner. I don't want to give up the trip. Do they let people climb Hood solo? If so, what whould be a good two day route? I'm an avid ice climber and I'm in good shape.

[Water]

let people? hood has nothing of the restrictions that rainier has.

you can solo all the live long day on mt hood as far as 'they' is concerned. no fees no climbing rangers etc

[billcoe]

You'll get lots of opinions on the best route on Hood to do solo (it's fine to solo Mt Hood BTW). For myself, depending on conditions anything on the North side. I just prefer being away from folks and they'll all typically be on the other side.

 

I'd plan on doing Cooper Spur, sleeping at tie in rock. It's awesome there and you should have it to yourself, then if it looks great, slip over to the left North Face Couilar and cruise that with 2 tools. It it looks like it's not in condition or you don't feel up to it cause of the weather etc, and in March as warm as it's been, it may be too late (it's a bowling alley when it starts warming up) I'd climb Cooper Spur with a single axe. Either route, I'd just pick up my stuff in the tent at tie-in in rock on the way out.

 

But that's me, I'm actually old and haven't been up there for years. When I was younger and kidless I use to do exactly that.

 

Alternatively, try and connect with someone on CC.com to climb Rainier with.

[ivan]

you can solo on mt rainier too, though in theory the Man has to look you over first and decide if Your Balls Are Big Enough and give you permission

 

pretty certain i wouldn't do the nisqually icefall sans rope though - gib ledges would be more the ticket

[billbob]

Looking like the new Mt Hood Climbers Guide should be out this summer. Now waiting on the latest LIDAR-based GIS data for Mt Hood to arrive, the new high-res topo images will be a great improvement over current maps. Nicely complements John Scurlock's aerial photos with digital overlays by Tim Olson. It is a big project with over 20 individual contributors (including the amazing Ivan :-)

[billcoe]

Here's some general guidelines for you:

[ivan]

Looking like the new Mt Hood Climbers Guide should be out this summer. Now waiting on the latest LIDAR-based GIS data for Mt Hood to arrive, the new high-res topo images will be a great improvement over current maps. Nicely complements John Scurlock's aerial photos with digital overlays by Tim Olson. It is a big project with over 20 individual contributors (including the amazing Ivan :-)

sweeeeet! - you promised on a stack of bibles that this would keep me in beer money in perpituity, right?!?

[brettinnj]

Thanks again for the info. I looked into the Cooper Spur climb. I called Mazamas hoping to find some info and the woman there told me the snow is too soft to climb. She said it's post holing all the way. Is this the case? Does it look like it will get better soon?

[Water]

found a lot of postholing down low last sunday at timberline lodge.. but stuff could change between now and the start of march. You could use flotation of your liking and go just the same.

[billcoe]

Thanks again for the info. I looked into the Cooper Spur climb. I called Mazamas hoping to find some info and the woman there told me the snow is too soft to climb. She said it's post holing all the way. Is this the case? Does it look like it will get better soon?

Careful who you talk to at the Mazamas. Some are real skilled and world class and some are wankers, it's a real large and diverse group of people. On the spur, once you get where it gets steep you'll be fine. You're talking 1 month from now. Who here can predict a month out?

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/940983/Re_TR_Mt_Hood_Eliot_ice_craggi#Post940983

Mitochondria was just up there and you can see for yourself, click the link. On the Mazama lady recommendation, while that was true a while ago for the S Side, I'd recommend you avoid the S Side. Seriously. The weather is better on the Spur in March as well. Occasionally it's in a wind and snow shadow. The S side can be total shit, and yet there's a manageable breeze over on the NE side.

 

Her 3rd pic down shows you tie in rock very clearly on the ridge to the left, and the couilar doesn't look as deep as it really is. This is a relatively easy hike, and that ridge there often has the snow blown off of it as well so once you get there it's pretty firm. I've soloed that route where the snow was waist deep on the upper Spur, and its so awesome to be wading through that stuff on a 45 degree slope in perfect weather with everyone else someplace else. If you traverse in to the couliar instead of the std Cooper Spur, you actually avoid some pretty good steep stuff down low BTW. Don't think this pic shows it clearly. But the 3rd pic down is a great shot of what it looks like right now.

 

ps - Raineer is a better mt to climb, but seems like if you are only coming out here for a weekend climb, Hood is often better weather in the spring. I think Rainer height gets it more wind up high and or heinous cloud cap freak weather. That's my "OPINION" only BTW, wish I had a fact for you, but none for now.

 

 

[Maine-iac]

LIDAR data for Hood??

Holy shit that would be awesome!! The current data is lacking quite a bit. When that new stuff comes out maybe i'll remake my Avy Danger map of hood.

[brettinnj]

Cool pictures. It doesn't look that bad. Hoping it gets cold in the next few weeks.

 

I was looking to come out there for a week or so. I was giving myself plenty of time to climb Rainier in case of bad weather. It costs a fortune to change flight plans at the last minute.

 

I'm still looking to get on Rainier at the very least. I have a call into the climbing ranger there. Hoping if I kiss his ass he will let me climb. Even if he says no, I will have enough time to climb Hood and get on Rainier (high camp)

[billcoe]

 

My advice (I never gave any to the dudes from NY who turned out to be the TV story you are referring too), is to give yourself enough time, be flexible on your plans, but make your trip primarily process based, not goal based goals. ie, you're say, coming out and will "try to get as much good climbing in as you can", VS, "my goal is to summit Hood via the N couilar route" or something like that. Then you come out and make the best of the hand you are deal and your trip will be great cause you went up and ice climbed on the lower Elliot in a blizzard....and you would have a good trip despite the weather.

 

I'm kind of an old wanker myself, so take it with a grain of salt. ...aw heck, better just grab the whole salt shaker.

 

Sounds fun. Remember rule v1 above -no unnecessary Yodeling.

[YocumRidge]

On the spur, once you get where it gets steep you'll be fine. You're talking 1 month from now. Who here can predict a month out?

 

Her 3rd pic down shows you tie in rock very clearly on the ridge to the left, and the couilar doesn't look as deep as it really is. This is a relatively easy hike, and that ridge there often has the snow blown off of it as well so once you get there it's pretty firm. I've soloed that route where the snow was waist deep on the upper Spur, and its so awesome to be wading through that stuff on a 45 degree slope in perfect weather with everyone else someplace else. If you traverse in to the couliar instead of the std Cooper Spur, you actually avoid some pretty good steep stuff down low BTW. Don't think this pic shows it clearly.

 

Right on, Bill. Totally agree to avoid SS at all cost.

 

I think this pic has more light on the upper CS and shows the couloir Bill is referring to more clearly.

 

 

Also, Sunshine is another nice alternative on the N side of Hood. Not so technically demanding, just long, especially when the gate is closed.

Last Sun/Mon was the perfect timing to hit it though and while we were so tempted to bivy on the Snow Dome, Oleg had to be back to work on Monday.

[YocumRidge]

Looking like the new Mt Hood Climbers Guide should be out this summer. Now waiting on the latest LIDAR-based GIS data for Mt Hood to arrive, the new high-res topo images will be a great improvement over current maps. Nicely complements John Scurlock's aerial photos with digital overlays by Tim Olson. It is a big project with over 20 individual contributors (including the amazing Ivan :-)

 

Bill, when is the publishing party?

[Lucky Larry]

You'll get lots of opinions on the best route on Hood to do solo (it's fine to solo Mt Hood BTW). For myself, depending on conditions anything on the North side. I just prefer being away from folks and they'll all typically be on the other side.

 

I'd plan on doing Cooper Spur, sleeping at tie in rock. It's awesome there and you should have it to yourself, then if it looks great, slip over to the left North Face Couilar and cruise that with 2 tools. It it looks like it's not in condition or you don't feel up to it cause of the weather etc, and in March as warm as it's been, it may be too late (it's a bowling alley when it starts warming up) I'd climb Cooper Spur with a single axe. Either route, I'd just pick up my stuff in the tent at tie-in in rock on the way out.

 

But that's me, I'm actually old and haven't been up there for years. When I was younger and kidless I use to do exactly that.

 

Alternatively, try and connect with someone on CC.com to climb Rainier with.

Bill shame on your one tool advice; I'm with Ivan-two tools is more fun (personally safer too). Edited February 12, 2010 by oldlarry

[brettinnj]

How is the descent on the North Face? Is it something that you need to rap down off a snow bollard or is it not that steep?

[slogon]

Don't think that Coooper Spur is that easy - it's exposed and people fall off almost every year it seems, especially if descending it. If you're coming from the east coast and not familiar with the mountain the south side might make more sense. You can go mid-week or do a variation (w. Crater rim, etc.) to avoid people.