brettinnj

Thanks Hugh. I had read that article on winter climbers. Even though the article is 2 years old I still figured the numbers were low. I thought a lot of people skied on Rainier (and others). Someone at this site said that Mt Hood was the second most climbed mountain in the world (2nd to Fuji). You would think that the Federal Government would throw more bucks that way.

Obviously I pissed you guys off by asking what I thought was a simple question. So why does CO have a staff of 15 professionals and the NW doesn’t?

The report for Mt Washington is put out by: USDA Forest Service White Mountain National Forest. Uncle Sam writes their paycheck. Point being, why doesn't the NW have better reports? CO has reports to 11,000'. NOAA has weather reports for over 12,000' on Rainier. Where are they getting the information from? How high is the telemetry?

I can't believe the poor avalanche forecasts there is for the Northwest. On Mt Washington in NH,(6200') they have snow rangers that put out a detailed forecast. They even break it down to the gully and it's available around 8:00am. I have been watching www.nwac.us for the past few days. First they only give forecasts up to 7000' and at that it doesn't come out until 11:00am. Who waits until 11:00 to go out? I spoke with a Ranger at Mt Hood asking if there is any other place to get a better forecast and he told me to check out CC.com. What gives? They are both National Parks (N.H. is White Mountain). It's not like Hood or Rainier doesn't see the traffic.

So did they ever catch the MF-ers?

Is this a picture of the S.S. on a Saturday?

Cool pictures! Sounds like your SUUNTO can't tell the correct time or elevation. How steep does the Cooper Spur route get? What are the snow conditions like on the steep stuff? Thanks for the great TR.

sledneck???

You got some really nice shots. I like the way you captured the light. Very well done.

Me neither. Then again, I don't know any strangers.

How about details?

No hate. I just don't know how he can come off saying that any post of someone looking for a partner is a person looking for a free ride on someone elses planned trip. Besides, you have to admit that Bug's post of the video record in a snow cave is funny as hell.

First off, I recently made a post looking for a Partner to climb Rainier. I clearly stated that I had the plans and my partner stuck me. Who are you to say that posts made looking for a partner are just people looking to "trail along". If this is not a guided climb and you are looking to make up a "team", then who are you to pick the route? Shouldn't that be a "team" decision?

Sounds good. Now let me get this straight. I park at the entrance to the Tilly Jane ski trail and take that to the base of Mt Hood (north side). Where is the Tilly Jane ski trail parking lot and how do I get there?

That's funny. The only thing is I'll have a rental and they will have my credit card info for tickets. Someone told me (from one of the ranger stations) I needed a wilderness permit? Is that to enter the woods or for parking? They were not sure but they thought I got it at a sporting good store. On a different note: I was talking to someone at Whittaker Mountaineering about a Mt Baker guide book. I figure if I'll be out there for a week or so I'll climb as much as I can. I told them I can't get a solo permit for rainier but how it's not a problem for Hood. He told me that "Mt Hood is just a hill". I guess he's not a fan of your mountain.

I need to start a new string for this one. I'm looking for info on climbing the north side of Hood. I called the Mt Hood Info center. They sent me to the Zig Zag ranger station. They sent me to the Hood River ranger station. They tried sending me back to the Zig Zag station. All I want to know is: What is the approach for the North side? What road is open and where can I park? What permits do I need to park and enter the woods and where do I get the permits? They don't seem like hard questions to me. Everyone I spoke with was very nice, just not very helpfull. Any help would be greatfully appreciated. BTW for anyone who has been following my posts... The ranger at Rainier told me I could fill out a solo request but not to hold my breath. They don't like giving them out this time of year.

I've climbed a few frozen waterfalls that "talked" to me the whole way up. One I was really nervouse about sinking a screw in. Major horizontal cracks. I got within 6' from the top and fired in one screw just before I stepped onto the snowcrust.

I don't think it's too much. I was just looking for some beta. I'm not looking to take the easy way up. That's not my style. (I think I would rather fail on a hard route than cruise an easy route) Besides, I'm in no rush to get off the mountain and back on a plane to come home to the daily stuff.

What does coming from the east coast have to do with what route I climb? We have ice here too. I was just wondering if one route was used more for a descent route. I will get down. I'm a union ironworker. My life depends on me paying close attention to every single step I take.

How is the descent on the North Face? Is it something that you need to rap down off a snow bollard or is it not that steep?

Cool pictures. It doesn't look that bad. Hoping it gets cold in the next few weeks. I was looking to come out there for a week or so. I was giving myself plenty of time to climb Rainier in case of bad weather. It costs a fortune to change flight plans at the last minute. I'm still looking to get on Rainier at the very least. I have a call into the climbing ranger there. Hoping if I kiss his ass he will let me climb. Even if he says no, I will have enough time to climb Hood and get on Rainier (high camp)

Thanks again for the info. I looked into the Cooper Spur climb. I called Mazamas hoping to find some info and the woman there told me the snow is too soft to climb. She said it's post holing all the way. Is this the case? Does it look like it will get better soon?

No shit, 2nd? That sucks. I was looking to climb Rainier (Nisqually Icefall)the first week of March. I had problems with my partner. I don't want to give up the trip. Do they let people climb Hood solo? If so, what whould be a good two day route? I'm an avid ice climber and I'm in good shape.

Thanks for the info guys. I can't believe there there isn't a guide book (in print)to such a popular mountain. I live in Northern NJ. Whenever there is an accident on Mt Hood, it is all over the TV news here (NYC stations). I never once heard the media talking about Mt Rainier or any other mountain. What makes Hood such a media magnet?

Is there a guide book for Mt.Hood? How about a topo map with climbing routes?