Denali boots?

[sleepyq2227]

Hey guys,

 

I'm new to this forum and also kinda new to big mountain climbing. I've done Rainier a couple times now and am planning a trip to Denali in June. I've got wide feet and always have trouble finding boots that fit well. I used Koflach this year on Rainier. The Scarpa Inverno seemed a bit too narrow. Anyway, any suggestions on what brand to look at for a Denali boot? Also, aside from REI, what are some of the good shops around the Seattle/Bellevue area?

[shortstow]

second ascents in seattle is a good place

[kurthicks]

Hey Sleepy,

 

I suggest you look into more modern synthetic double boots (those with a removeable liner) than plastics for Denali. They walk better and can stay reasonably dry if you take care of them (dry the liners in your bag at night and perhaps wear a vapor barrier sock on the lower glacier to minimize sweat). here are a few models to consider (but find a pair that fits well; this is most important):

--La Sportiva Nuptse (on clearance, cheap!)

--Sportiva Baruntse

--Sportiva Spantik (more technical, but I've literally worn them out of the box to the top of the big Hill)

 

you will likely want an overboot for these for use above 14k' or 17k'. Forty Below's K2 Superlight overboot is a nice, compact, and warm choice. Regardless of the model you choose, make sure your crampons really fit securely over them. Having a crampon pop off while in overboots is a pretty good way to fall/die.

 

I'd not suggest integrated boots (those with a gaiter built in), since they are way too hot on the lower mountain and offer limited versatility unless you just want to snow slog (or if you want to be a 7 Summit chaser). They can be comfortable though since they seem to flex more than those I mentioned.

 

Have fun!

[montypiton]

One advantage to plastic boots is that most are still beefy enough to ski out from the 14000' basin on the West Butt, if you're a ski-mountaineer. You could even climb the West Butt in an AT-boot with overboot, if you choose to ski for the approach and exit... whatever you end up choosing, fit them "generously".

[sleepyq2227]

Thank you guys. I went and visited Second Ascent. Unfortunately they only had the Scarpa Inverno which doesn't fit my foot. And they didn't have any of the Koflach's in my size and can't get more since they quit making them. I'll be stopping by Feathered Friends to try on the Nuptse and I think REI may have the Spantik. I was hoping that I might get away w/o overboots but I suppose that depends on which boot I actually buy.

[Le Piston]

You could also try Marmot in Bellevue and Pro Mountain Sports in the U District. The choices may be more limited, but they often have good deals and Marmot staff and Jim Nelson know their stuff.

[pdk]

What size foot? I have a brand spankin' new pair of the Koflach Artis Expe w/ two sets of inner boots (one set is the super warm ones). I don't recall the size, but its around a 12. Would check the sizing if interested.

[Dane]

I was hoping that I might get away w/o overboots but I suppose that depends on which boot I actually buy.

 

Hate to be a buzz kill. If you are asking which boot to use on Denali then you also need to take over boots. Climbing Denali without over boots depends on a couple of things, the boot (as you know) your own experience in cold weather and the weather on your trip.

 

Kurt gave good advice based on experience.

[keenwesh]

do they make any super warm boots in the 14-15 size range? I just scored a pair of Garmont tower GTX's in size 14, but they're not warm enough by themselves, how much do overboots add to warmth?

[Dane]

You need dbl boots for Denali...singles with over boots won't do.

[sleepyq2227]

Thanks for the offer PDK. Unfortunaely I'm a size 10.

[ryland_moore]

I have a pair of Koflach Artic Expes with Forty Below K2 super light overboots in red and black. Used them on Denali amd worked like a charm. The overboots are fitted to the Koflachs. I wear a size 10 boot as well. PM me with an offer and we'll see if we can work something out. I am down in Portland.

[Bug]

I have a pair of Koflach Artic Expes with Forty Below K2 super light overboots in red and black. Used them on Denali amd worked like a charm. The overboots are fitted to the Koflachs. I wear a size 10 boot as well. PM me with an offer and we'll see if we can work something out. I am down in Portland.

I have wide feet too and used this boot on Denali. I loved them and did not use my overboots.

Still, it is highly advisable to take overboots. My trip temps only got down to -50. That's nothing compared to when a wind storm blows in.

My biggest mistake on Denali was NOT taking skiis. The skiing out of 14000 camp was stellar. I could only watch.

I love my Scarpas with Dynafit bindings. They fit like a glove and are warm. I would probably need overboots in -50 with them though.

[keenwesh]

what boots would you recommend in size 15 for denali then? I have a pair of old lowa double plastics, would they work if I got a new inner for them? I don't want to be losing any toes/toenails.

[Dane]

Lowa would work fine I suspect. Although I worry about the older plastics cracking in the cold as the Koflachs some times did. Worth doing a goggle search and see if that has happened with the Lowa you have.

 

A well fit Intuition liner and over boots will go a long ways in keeping your feet intact on Denali

[kurthicks]

The Lowas another good setup; one that I've used in the past up in AK also. Throw some Intuition liners in them (fitted at your favorite local bootfitting shop), get some overboots, and you're all set. I share the same concerns that Dane has about the plastic cracking, though I haven't seen it in Lowas yet.

 

if you're planning in skiing, I've had good success in the Spantiks as have other folks. Colin skied the Orient Express in them once when I was up there. If you can't ski well in-bounds I wouldn't even consider skiing on the big hill in softer boots and a sled.

 

Regardless what you choose to do, it is worth spending money upfront to prevent spend more later dealing with frostbite.

[RokIzGud]

I think Koflach went out of business but im not positive...

[Bug]

Ryland was offering to sell his pair second hand.

[Dane]

Not sure how many saw this on another thread but worth reposting here I think.

 

24 hrs out climbing in the Enchantments...12/2/09

 

 

Cause? Dehydration from a long day of hard climbing, 5 degree F or colder temps in tight fitting (technical fit) single boots.

 

Results? 4 to 6 weeks in a wheel chair until dead tissue declares itself. 6 or more months before he is back in boots and even more time before he'll be back in tight rock shoes.

 

Medical treatment? Emergency room, and two office calls so far.

 

Seriously......makes a new pair of Spantiks with custom Intuition liners, new 'pons to fit and a new AT set up to go with them down right cheap in comparison.