Moolack

[shapp]

Sadly Moolacks days are numberd for climbing this year (too wet and snowy soon). You'll have to wait till next year. On another note. I think what happened to Flagstone is a pittyful excuse for new routing. However, I do not think that any of the over bolted BS routes should be chopped. On a face climb (i.e. no trad gear placements) it is up to the FA to determine bolt spacing. That doesn't mean we can't heckle the shit out of the Tvedts and call them out for it. But not the chop. However, I would be 100% in agreement with chopping the boltes that were added to all the routes, hydrotube, and others around to the right side, the bolts that were added several years after the FAs by who? I sure would like to know why more bolts were added to the tube, sometime after 1994. It was perfeclty safe although a little bit spicy when I first found a little scrap of info and found myself at flagstone in about 1993. Who ever did it man or woman-up and admit you have no shame.

Shapp

Edited November 11, 2009 by shapp

[el jefe]

interesting post. you must be truly new to climbing if you think you can earn your bones by offering to chop someone else's route.

[rocky_joe]

chill out dude. no reason to chop the bolts. if they really bug you that bad then just don't look at them. Better worry about actually climbing something than about complaining about routes you don't even want to climb being over bolted.

[el jefe]

i haven't been to flagstone but that doesn't matter, either. the route offends you, that's clear, but what isn't clear is why you have a right to chop it just because you don't approve. why are you right and they are wrong? you assert that "someone else most likely climbed those routes before the bolt ladders for midgets were installed", but you are just talking out of your ass if you can't tell us who this someone is and when they did the route. those routes have been around for a long time and the local community has made peace with them or they already would have been chopped. now you come along and presume for some reason that it is your job to set things right? i call that highly presumptuous of you.

[el jefe]

dude, you aren't just a noob but a tool as well.

[el jefe]

it doesn't matter to you because you are an asshole who naively thinks he'll earn cred with the moolackers if he offers to chop a route at flagstone. i have teenage kids who have a more mature approach to the world than you do.

[el jefe]

good luck finding moolack, young atreides, that boltless nirvana where only the pure of heart may gain access. may you, too, prove worthy of earning the trust of the initiated and learn the secret handshake that gains you entry into that blessed place.

 

 

[Pilchuck71]

good luck finding moolack, young atreides, that boltless nirvana where only the pure of heart may gain access. may you, too, prove worthy of earning the trust of the initiated and learn the secret handshake that gains you entry into that blessed place.

 

[KirkW]

I guess not everybody thinks you're so funny...got what I came for...later asshole.

[el jefe]

it appears young atreides was abducted by aliens (or was it moolackians?), leaving only his contribution to the climbing communnity in place of his earlier posts. except for one last epithet, all evidence of his existence has been removed from this world...

 

now its off to smith rocks for me (where did i leave my spandex and quick draws?). there's not much chance the moolacks will grant me entry into their new yosemite. i'm just going to have to make do with the tired old tuff...

[letsroll]

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Moolack

[shapp]

I don't support boneheads Idea of chopping routes at flagstone, but I am curious what people think about restoring at least the hydrotube to its original bolt count. Does anyone know who retroed it? I think the original bolt count added a lot, by that I mean a little brain control, to the experience. However, it was by no means dangerous. That being the question, I wouldn't go restoring it unless the FA party was actually POed at the retro.

Thanks,

Shapp

Edited November 11, 2009 by shapp

[powderhound]

whoever heard of moolack? is that in eastern oregon? heard there was some really good granite sport climbing there...

[shapp]

Ha ha

 

Hey Pow, did you ever check out the Quartzville Crag?

[powderhound]

Ha ha

 

Hey Pow, did you ever check out the Quartzville Crag?

 

naw...feel to the time/motivation curse and ended up spending most of my summer climbing in Idaho, Montana, WY. Going to have to look it up one of these days.

[corvallisclimb]

hey why did you delete your posts? you scared of the oregon climbing community? what BS! i wish i coulda read what you said... but what i gather, you claim your going to chop at flagstone then delete after you get called out. wow fucking weak dude!

[KirkW]

I actually came here and posted looking for some info about moolack not to start a bolt debate. I got off subject and realized I was dealing with a moron so I got rid of it. Don't really think sitting around flaming each other on CC is really a worthy endevour. As for it being weak. No deleting it wasn't weak...posting it in the first place was. I won't piss on the local climbing communities consensus but it's my right to think that you're all full of shit when you talk about climbing ethics. It's a fucking bolt ladder (2 actually) that starts on the ground for christ's sake and no body seems willing to call it what it is. Disgusting. With that said thanks for your hard work with bolt replacement. Whatever your opinion about flag I respect your work.

 

And everyone can just settle the fuck down. Tvedts' bolt ladders are safe...for now.

[billcoe]

Wow

 

how about a group hug?

[corvallisclimb]

no worries we all talk shit from time to time... yes they are bolt ladders, the tvedts know it, but they are not my routes so im not going to chop em. as for moolack if you wanna find it. its located off the fisher creek trail found via FS 1944 in the waldo lake wilderness. its no secret go find it and add some anchors for me.

[el jefe]

whoa! moolack the mysterious outed by corvallisclimb!

[Checat]

powderhound

 

you crack me up, still sending people elsewhere (eastern Oregon...lol...) theres not enough plum boltless lines out there for you...

 

To those that do climb there and who have visited over the years there should be no big surprises about someone asking around about the place on a website like this: (the new base of Lost Art/Pedestal info bucket, more bouldering developing, trails getting more obvious; I ran into 4 new people and learned of two more just last season).

 

 

What surprises me is that he got flamed so severly to the extent that he/she would remit his remarks/questions and completely retreat?

 

In that old thread

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/876229/1

 

you guys make it pretty intimidating to talk ethics in crags around oregon...

 

Shapp is right about the rain, but you might still run into me out there in full waterproof hoisting the old wire brush and crowbar...

 

don't get it twisted Flagstone - don't chop, it is what it is - learn from the mistake of what it stands for as a climbing area,

 

bolts at MOolack - Will be chopped - no question and I might not be the quickest on the draw to do so - there is a line of people ready to chop any bolts at Moolack....

 

Edited November 12, 2009 by Checat

[justinp]

If I recall correctly the hanger on the fourth bolt of hypertube is lose and needs to be tightened back up. As for choppin bolts out there I say leave em in the Walts Wall and Hypertube area…. Yeah it’s over bolted just like the Callahans, but it’s a great place to gain some confidence for bigger and better things. I would rather have bolts spaced close on Walts Wall rather than increasing the cheese grader effect. As for the base of the North Bowl area I would not mind seeing some of those go as u can pretty much walk up that to access the Upper Bowl routes. Judging by the traffic I seen out there this spring and summer I am wondering why this even came up.

[Checat]

so is this thread about moolack or is it about Flagstone...

 

Its fine if the topics moved on. I've waited 5+ years for more folks to be interested and involved with the area so waiting a bit more is no big deal...

 

For those who have sneaked a peak at any of the early manuscripts to the Moolack area I look forward to putting forth some printed material regarding the routes and the areas history and ethics in the near future. The style of route development is the areas story on top of killer cracks of a multitude of size, height and angle.

 

As far as of retro-bolting, retro-choppoing etc... at the flagstone beyond its current state (other than tightening swingers), let it rest - there are far too many other crags in the region that do need bolts - lines established the same way Fralick, Arrington, etc... and other early developers at flagstone put routes in - ground up, on lead, bolting from stances, with at least reasonable (objective) distances between bolts. If you need one - PM me

 

Is there anyone out there really defending the Tvedts activities at Flagstone or Callahans? Do they (please feel free to post) defend there actions at these areas?

 

I always made my assumptions that they were more involved and interested in their children safely climbing routes than the hundreds about hundreds who would have loved to climb routes at the flagstone in its original state.

 

Edited November 12, 2009 by Checat

[shapp]

Both, I think yin and yang

[justinp]

It would have been a bit easier to figure out wtf is going on if dude didn’t delete his posts as I caught this thread on pg 2.

 

However, I do like Bills suggestion of a group hug