pink Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) SO! You admit to NOT freeing and NOT clean climbing Mr Pink? LOL! I'm kidding, nicely told! was never keen on having a PROJ bill, it would be a pretty hard freeclimb, all the good holds are upsidedown . Edited January 14, 2011 by pink Quote
pink Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Good story on the FA. Yeah, given the couple I've set I can imagine heads are a pretty iffy proposition out there in real small basalt flares. McGown's old, Chouinard bashies I tested seemed bomb enough, but you're definitely gambling with small heads on an FA or other not-well-traveled, dirty route out there. Were you using copper or aluminum for the small? I should think you'd want aluminum to paste and smear around as well as possible, but then you're gambling on it holding at all. And yeah, the soft eurotrash pins do worm their way around (limited) bends which is why they're so good out out there - you just wouldn't want to fall on the baby paddle blades and getting the big ones out if really sunk around bends is not really going to happen without busting up some rock (i.e. are better left fixed if used). that flare was really odd, much softer than most of the rock i've experienced out at beacon, there was no X'ing/pasting/sniffing involved i drove them into the back of the seam with my cleaning tool and mostly set the heads like nuts. guess i was trying to keep from having to fix my brass nuts. the brass just wasn't biting into the rock and when weighted was causing the rock to dissolve around it. i think the softer aluminum was giving me more of a cushion. definitely one of the more thought provoking things i've ever aided other than one the harder pitches up high on aurora that i led late at night after being up for 2 days witnessed by Andy Kirkpatrick, which he refers to me as the "tin of piss" climber in his book "Psycho Vertical". think i was more sleep deprived on that one . Quote
ivan Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Ah Blueblocker. I wonder about him from time to time. I wonder if he like jail? nice, sounds like there's an even more interesting tr to be had there Quote
kevbone Posted January 14, 2011 Author Posted January 14, 2011 Ah Blueblocker. I wonder about him from time to time. I wonder if he like jail? nice, sounds like there's an even more interesting tr to be had there He just disappeared one day, but before he did he left all his belongings on the front lawn of some climber friends of ours. He came up from Cal a few months earlier. We think he was on the run from something. I think he finally decided to face the music and return, hence the box of personal belongings on the lawn, he knew he would not be back for a while. Hell of a climber and nice guy, even if he was a little crazy. Quote
ivan Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 fuck, why the tr on an interesting beacon climb i haven't done just days before the closure, when i still have to salvage my shit off the pipeline?! Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 We still got a few weeks left Ivan. and Plaid did have to leave a pin or two, so he still needs to go back up and clean them out or apply for a fixed anchor permit in triplicate, notarized, signed, authorized and duly noted and then take a trip in the time machine so that its submitted before he left, or he'll be knocking elbows with the jailers and barking like a dog before we know it. Blueblockers, I remember those and even ordered a pair, loved em. Classic. Quote
Plaidman Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 ...several sawed-off lost arrows... You sawed-off arrows? ...baby angles... Couldn't these be Cn placements of some sort? NO! I wanted to do a pinless ascent and minimized the nailing where I could. It is a nailing route. Quote
Plaidman Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) guess i was trying to keep from having to fix my brass nuts. the brass just wasn't biting into the rock and when weighted was causing the rock to dissolve around it. I watched several of my offset brass nuts crumble the rock. That kind of speeded up my next placement. Wanted to get the next one in before that one blew. Edited January 14, 2011 by Plaidman Quote
pink Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 why wouldn't you want to do it clean? i really think tis was a silly question on JH's part, i think he just likes to talk tech no offense Joseph Quote
Plaidman Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 wtf were blueblockers? EVEN I know what blue blockers are. They were sunglasses from the 80's. Very popular. You should get a pair. Quote
Plaidman Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 I thought I would do it as clean as possible. Just to see if I could. Fun, ya know. Just a different kind of fun. Quote
denalidave Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Nice TR Pink. Seems the obvious name be retro'd to "BlueBlocker"... Quote
pink Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 I thought I would do it as clean as possible. Just to see if I could. Fun, ya know. Just a different kind of fun. unless ur a well seasoned as far as nailing goes, i think most peeps are gonna try a clean placement first. Quote
billcoe Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Those Tomahawk thinggys rule for seams! Same with cam hooks if you can get them inside the crack. Once, long time back, I was nutting the first pitch West face of Monkey. I had a new HB brassie in a marginal spot, and as I watched it, it literally was eating away at the placement. I grabbed the next piece quickly, but poof, before I could place it the hb dropped like 2 inches in the crack... and caught. Just as I start laughing, poof, it pops out of the new resting place and I took a ride on the Reading. Now 2 cam hook moves get your through there easy, fast and securely. 2 Beacon placements: Bomber. Quote
ivan Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Those Tomahawk thinggys rule for seams! Same with cam hooks if you can get them inside the crack. Once, long time back, I was nutting the first pitch West face of Monkey. I had a new HB brassie in a marginal spot, and as I watched it, it literally was eating away at the placement. I grabbed the next piece quickly, but poof, before I could place it the hb dropped like 2 inches in the crack... and caught. Just as I start laughing, poof, it pops out of the new resting place and I took a ride on the Reading. Now 2 cam hook moves get your through there easy, fast and securely. 2 Beacon placements: Bomber. someplaces though the goddamn tomahawk gets in such that you just can't get at it to get it back out - this motherfucker became a permanent addition to dirty double overhang (though you'll notice i gave the surronding rock plenty of love to make it not so) Quote
billcoe Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Did you drop your funkness? Cause that would get it out of there in short order. [/raceforbootypost] Quote
ivan Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 Did you drop your funkness? Cause that would get it out of there in short order. [/raceforbootypost] had a funkness i think, but it was a ghetto-one most likely - i'll take you w/ me next time - the picture doesn't do it justice - there's a wierd angle in there that kept me from yanking on it in the right axis - i'd just about destroyed the swaging at the eye already, so figured why worry? that route is a treat and, if it's futures continues as its past predicts, my 'hawk will still be ready for service in 2030, long after the heathen gods have swept us all away Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 The continuing saga of Plaid on Psychic, we returned the following day in a raging gale to retrieve the gear left the night before. We rapped all the way down, and cleaned the pitch. This is the day of the snowstorm this week, Tuesday evening, it started snowing as we got back to the parking lot, good timing! http://www.vimeo.com/18803267 Quote
Plaidman Posted January 15, 2011 Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) The gear rescue was.... Windy. Yes. Fun. Yes. Potential cluster f#$k. Absolutely! Thanks for taking all that cool video Steve. You are the man. Edited January 15, 2011 by Plaidman Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 It hasn't gone anywhere? You can climb there this weekend as a matter of fact. Take a number to get on the Soup! Quote
ivan Posted February 14, 2011 Posted February 14, 2011 [video:youtube] this guy sounds like he'll be a hellcat in bed Quote
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