kevbone Posted February 1, 2013 Author Posted February 1, 2013 Bye bye south face of beacon. We have lost you again to bureaucracy. Quote
kevbone Posted February 1, 2013 Author Posted February 1, 2013 This last summer was my best Beacon summer since my son was born in 06. Since I choose to be home most of the time because I love and care for my family I have not been to Beacon more than once or twice a season. This summer I made it to Beacon 8 times. 9 more than last year. We did Young Warrior 2 times and Boltless Warrior once. Which IMO is the only way to climb this amazing line. Dod's Jam went down twice. Blownout once. Jill's thrill a couple of times (love that line). Of course the SE corner was climbed multiple times even at midnight during a ledge gathering. Beacon is such a special place for so many reasons. Mostly because of the other climbers that frequent the wall. But the biggest thanks goes to Jim. You rock my old friend and thanks for being in my life. I have known Jim since 1993 long before I ever climbed. You have been such an inspiration to me for such a long time. I will miss you South Face of Beacon. I can still dream…….. Quote
rob Posted February 1, 2013 Posted February 1, 2013 Since I choose to be home most of the time because I love and care for my family I have not been to Beacon more than once or twice a season. this is WAY more passive-aggressive than even I can do, awesome! Quote
denalidave Posted February 1, 2013 Posted February 1, 2013 Since I choose to be home most of the time because I love and care for my family I have not been to Beacon more than once or twice a season. this is WAY more passive-aggressive than even I can do, awesome! I guess Ivan must hate his chill'ns... Quote
ivan Posted February 2, 2013 Posted February 2, 2013 Since I choose to be home most of the time because I love and care for my family I have not been to Beacon more than once or twice a season. this is WAY more passive-aggressive than even I can do, awesome! I guess Ivan must hate his chill'ns... sometimes, but i like'em enough to taking them w/ me occasionally Quote
ivan Posted February 2, 2013 Posted February 2, 2013 i celebrated closure day by climbing hood in spectacular sunny conditions - i'll be out to beacon tomorrow Quote
ivan Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 new year, new beatard count 1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013! 1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit 1/22 - #3 - annealed by two recent days at smith in the Big Fridge of the bivy site, mornings traversing the phantasmagorical formations of frozen sludge, mike and i had an evening run up the bacon-wand in a big olde freshet of gaudy coldness a big dry had beaten off the vast damp of days gone by - barely any ice on route - half the digits of my right foot right numb by grassy ledges, i unshod and rubbed hardly any life back into them - toes throb as i type booty nut on p2, should the original owner wish to claim it from a massive pile of such things i have growing in my garage not even a fort-night of fucknoodling about the sunny-side left - full moon fever this weekend for any half-wit warriors who might feel the urge to come w/... 2/2 - day #4 - ground hogz day, a swift demise to deadly winter predicted - 'twas the day after a wander up the hood-wand w/ an interesting feller to dispatch the doldrum of the beacon s side closure - ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme stone soup w/ geoff today - despite the distinct sense of early spring setting in as the Great Hamster foresaw, it was a mort cold and savage breezy - geoff did p1, and i managed to mangle meself on p2 - found a fixed nut at the start of the eyebrow traverse and was hanging out on it for awhile, had just plugged the next cam in when suddenly i was falling - fell/slid into a slab, instinctively grabbing an edge to stop the fall, sheared off the flesh of my pinky-tip and sprung the sprockets in the other fingers' knuckles, then went heads'o'er'tits and continued on down, getting entangled in the rope running up through the gear and ultimately arresting hanging upside down looking straight at the olde boye, who looked frankly startled blood pouring from the flensed n' flapping finger, i wrapped my balaclava about it n' took stock - had a good gut laugh upon recalling that last time i climbed on this side, last spring, i'd ended up in the e.r. too - maybe i'm just not getting the message? geoff was my hero - not only did he finish the pitch, he also figured out how, after 10 minutes, to get my damn knot untied by pounding on it w/ a jug - the big breeze blew itself out as dejected would-be hiking trail ascenders milled about the parking lot and i howled at the sky in mock musical appreciation - the climb done, we went off, each to his saturday night debaucheries and me to keen my wound w/ wanton drunkenness Quote
billcoe Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 Nice Ivan, I was wondering how you folks were faring in the weather. Multiple pitches at Beacon sounded great but decided that due to the cold weather sunshine and high winds sounded better than shade and high winds. I got a Yates (Kong) "Back Up" fall arrester and took it out to The Far Side to see how to operate it. Figured I'd do toprope laps on Tribal Therapy till I was exhausted. Had the place to myself. Got 1 lap in, barely that, sore today (shoulders are off the charts saying "TAKE THE DAY OFF!!!!). Had to traverse in from Yashua. The blackberrys have returned with a vengeance. Skirting them and the wet dirt that had accumulated on anything resembling a ledge was actually kind of fun. Once I topped out, didn't feel much like rapping through the berry bushes again, so I spent the rest of the day making the upper 30 feet look like a plate straight out of the dishwasher. The wind wasn't a factor and died down. The routes more doable now, and the handcrack on top is fun again. Got to try out the Purple LaSportiva shoes my son bought me for Christmas. They are old school snug to the point of pain. But they fit like a pair of supertight slippers. The trade off is great sensitivity on tiny edges. Felt like I was dancing...in pain. Awesome. Turns out that once I'd uncluster frigged my gig, that fall arrester looks like it will work great. Not enough to fully trust it yet, but heading that direction. Next time out, I'm taking my ice tool and digging the rest of the berrys out. So I finally burn out @ 3 and bump into the old guys doing graveyard shift a few min after I've noshed and watered down. By the time we were done bullshitting, I'd run out of time and had to head home. Wondering how you lads were faring. Thanks for the report. The guts: Quote
denalidave Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme Dude, that's like, so stoner soup 101 Huh,hu. Where the hell were you in high school? Class? Hu, hu. You shoulda been out in the parking lot with the "burnouts" get'n the ejumakation more specific to your lifestyle... Just sayin. Hu,huh, hu. Quote
matt_warfield Posted February 3, 2013 Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme Dude, that's like, so stoner soup 101 Huh,hu. Where the hell were you in high school? Class? Hu, hu. You shoulda been out in the parking lot with the "burnouts" get'n the ejumakation more specific to your lifestyle... Just sayin. Hu,huh, hu. Many more tips for ivan and the world may reverse its magnetic orientation. Edited February 3, 2013 by matt_warfield Quote
geoff Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 (edited) Half way up P2 bolt ladder. Someone took a little fall. Nothing a little cardboard and tape won't fix. Edited February 6, 2013 by geoff Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Great photos Geoff, oh the pleasures of aid climbing whippers, I can hardly wait to join ya. My dads been very sick and Ive been taking care of him, he passed away today peacefully. It will be our time before we know it. So I'll be back out there climbing shortly, coming at ya. Quote
billcoe Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Sorry to hear of your fathers passing Steve. Tough to see your dad get old and check out. Wishing you well. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 Thank you Bill. Its true, its very difficult. But like Ivan in the photos above, I just need to remember Rule #5. http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/ Quote
kevbone Posted February 5, 2013 Author Posted February 5, 2013 How does one fall on a bolt ladder? Quote
ivan Posted February 5, 2013 Posted February 5, 2013 How does one fall on a bolt ladder? google "sarcasm" Quote
denalidave Posted February 6, 2013 Posted February 6, 2013 sorry to hear about ur dad steve! Yes, me too, Steve... Quote
ivan Posted February 6, 2013 Posted February 6, 2013 sorry to hear about ur dad steve! Yes, me too, Steve... "wise sir, do not grieve it is always better to avenge dear ones than indulge in mourning for every one of us, living in this world means waiting for our end let he who can achieve glory before death when a warrior is gone, that will be his best and only bulwark" Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 6, 2013 Posted February 6, 2013 Thank you gentlemen for your well wishes. Life goes on, Im just looking at it thru different eyes. Now I'm even more of a asshole. Quote
Plaidman Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 No asshole dude. You are one of the best. Sending good vibes ur way. See ya soon! Sorry about your Dad. Plaid Quote
Plaidman Posted February 8, 2013 Posted February 8, 2013 (edited) I just need to remember Rule #5. http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/ I read those rules. Sure is a fwuck load of em. Sure glad we don't have rules in climbing. Oppps! Maybe there are a few. Rule #5 is good though. We can keep that one! Plaid Edited February 8, 2013 by Plaidman Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted February 13, 2013 Posted February 13, 2013 I think you better pay special attention to Rule #57 Plaid. Rule #57// No stickers. Nobody gives a shit what causes you support, what war you’re against, what gear you buy, or what year you rode RAGBRAI. See Rule #5. Quote
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