billcoe Posted October 13, 2009 Share Posted October 13, 2009 http://www.nata.org/jat/readers/archives/jt0200/jt020000168p.pdf For you climbers who just tweaked a finger, nice article here with plenty of details to start with once you got her iced down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Nice link - thanks. Very timely too. Just tweeked my pinky again. As far as general finger joint issues, in my old age, I find that if I climb at my upper level for more than a few days per week, my finger joints begin to hurt and don't usually settle down unless I back off a little. Pretty soon I'll be limited to 3rd class at this rate I've been thinking about starting to use those joint drinks to see how that works. Any of you older folks have any experience with those things or some other "tricks" when it comes to the finger joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 I've been thinking about starting to use those joint drinks to see how that works. Any of you older folks have any experience with those things or some other "tricks" when it comes to the finger joints? "joint drinks" means something with chondroitin, msm, and such? if so, i've taken them for periods of time and have had no conclusive feed-back. it's nice to think they work....but i can't say they do. a "trick" of mine that i DO know works is self-massage on the fingers and fore-arms. find the sore spot in the finger and massage it somewhat vigorously for a few minutes a few times a day. chances are you'll find sore spots in your fore-arms and palms too; massage these as well. it's easy to forget to do this, but i've found that if continued for a week, good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted December 29, 2009 Share Posted December 29, 2009 Keep'em if you got'em. I've broken my right ring finger twice in the past several years, severely spraining the fingers on each side of it both times. Went to the OHSU hand guy (Joel Solomon) who does Oregon Symphony musicians; he said he could do an artifical joint, but that it wouldn't hold up to climbing. Between the breaks, aprains, and arthritis my right hand is quickly going claw. Most of the problem with with straightening my fingers which fortunately I don't have to do much for climbing. Have to just deal with the pain however. For that I take a lot of Tumeric and other natural anti-inflamatories. I've been completely off of Advil for the past year (first time in decades) so I'd say it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 this is great, but "article" is spelled wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 So I'm in this boat and am wondering if y'all learned anything substantive from that article. Tweaked my pinky (a2 pulley tear?) about 6 weeks ago. Climbed a day or two and then realized something was wrong. Rested about two weeks, but that didn't do it. Taped. Just a little climbing. Then another week of rest. I still have pain. I am itching to get back climbing but don't want to permanently harm this digit. I am also concerned that I may be losing mobility in the second joint. Any suggestions/experience? Any hand doc recommendations in Seattle? Thanks Rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 take off 3 months, rest and ice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 don't know any hand specialists to recommend in seattle but think that a good starting point would be to see someone and get an actual diagnosis, especially if it still hurts too much to climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Seattle Hand Clinic might be a good place to start. no personal experience there, but they have been recommended to others by a reputable local doc active with a local pro sports team. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 take off 3 months, rest and ice That's a bitter pill to swallow! Thanks for the thoughts. I may check out the hand surgeon if insurance will cover it so I can learn something and be confident I'm doing the right thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I have probably taken 8 weeks off from climbing after ever so slightly tweaking my middle finger. Before I climb again it will be 10 weeks of no climbing, but those extra 2 weeks is just because my local wall is being rebuilt and it finishes in another few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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