John Frieh Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 What did you climb during the winter of 2004/2005? What do you remember getting climbed that winter (ice and/or alpine)? NOAA is talking about a strong el nino this winter... assuming that delivers the last one I can remember was 04/05 which was an awesome winter for alpine but teh suck for skiing. If I remember correctly both Alpental and Ski Bowl didnt open that year but the Sierras were epic (200% of snowpack). I also remember: - FWA of CNR Stuart - FWA NE ridge of Triumph - FA/FWA of NW face of Chiwawa - FA of Pineapple Express - FWA of NE face of Davis - an awesome boot pack into Stuart for most of the winter (!!!) What did you climb in 04/05? Any body remember how ice conditions were that year? Which areas were super fat or at least above average? I checked the WA state ice page but the archives dont go back that far... Looking @ the gravsports and montanaice archives it looked like both areas had good seasons... nothing super epic but it seemed like just about everything came in more or less. So: if el nino comes where should I go? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 You should NOT go to the Darrans expecting a dry summer. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Posted September 28, 2009 You should NOT go to the Darrans expecting a dry summer. How was BC ice that winter dude? Quote
Pete_H Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 Those of us who enjoy skiing feel that this abhorrant weather event is not something worthy of celebration. Quote
dberdinka Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 It never got very cold that winter There were several massive pineapple express' that melted the shit out of whatever snow had fallen. Freezing levels were consisently high. I would bet Lillooet sucked that winter. My take away from that winter was good winter climbing in the Cascades is more dependant on warm weather and limited snowfall than it is on cold weather. It doesn't make any sense I know but less snowfall means easier access and less filled in features, you need the warm weather to melt the snow that does fall to form waterice and if you get a few clear nights it will be cold enough to freeze up. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 28, 2009 Author Posted September 28, 2009 Great info Darin! Definitely need some freeze/melt cycles to generate ice... one of the reasons Idaho doesnt get much in the way of alpine ice until late spring when things warm up... but that said I have the opinion that the cascades are so large and have so much variety that one can generally find something to climb most winters regardless of how much or little warm spells we have. I cant help but wonder if el nino delivers what is going to get climbed this winter... Quote
dberdinka Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Great info Darin! Definitely need some freeze/melt cycles to generate ice... While definitely true I think the more important point is you DO NOT NEED a big cold snap to bring routes into condition. I did several high quality ice or mixed routes that winter when freezing levels were and had been quite high (higher than us) and encountered excellent, stable conditions (just stay out of the sun ). Edited September 28, 2009 by dberdinka Quote
ivan Posted September 28, 2009 Posted September 28, 2009 i seem to recall a very fine near death experience in the compnay of these dude called nolse 'round then Quote
powderhound Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 i seem to recall a very fine near death experience in the compnay of these dude called nolse 'round then hylite was sick...it was super fat and the snow fall was shit Quote
billcoe Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Was this the year you scored 128 days of ice climbing or some bodacious thing? BTW, check your email within the next day. ps, don't stick your thumb into a Munter Hitch rap. Quote
JayB Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Those of us who enjoy skiing feel that this abhorrant weather event is not something worthy of celebration. Some of the new routes were inspiring to read about, but I have to agree with the above. Quote
G-spotter Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=440660 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=443525 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=443741 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=430128 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=443911 Basically there was a short freeze late Dec to Jan,. then all of late Feb and half of March was glorious concrete alpine with no weak layers to speak of. Also the snowline and snowpack depth in late Feb was more or less around where it normally is in late June so you could drive way up many logging roads that are normally inaccessible all winter. The Squamish Cragging was pretty decent too. Many days of sunny and +15C in the Bluffs. Edited September 29, 2009 by G-spotter Quote
John Frieh Posted September 29, 2009 Author Posted September 29, 2009 Nice list Dru... makes me wish I could search the TR engine by date. Quote
Pete_H Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Ya know NOAA can't really predict what the weather is going to do this winter, so this whole conversation is stoopid. Quote
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