kevbone Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Interested to see what you all think the grade is on this climb...pitch by pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Pitch 1 5.8. After the last bolt on the travers on the second pitch what do you guys do for gear into the butthole? or do just clip the bolt and then place a cam in the crack on top of the butthole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Pitch 1 5.8. After the last bolt on the travers on the second pitch what do you guys do for gear into the butthole? or do just clip the bolt and then place a cam in the crack on top of the butthole? After the last bolt on pitch 2, you can place a number of different cams and or nuts in the crack at your face as you step out left (the last bolt would be at your knees). Then mantle up. There is a bomber slot on your left behind a huge flaky thing. Either a nut or a yellow alien fits great in there. Then move up to the butthole. Pitch 1.....5.8 Pitch 2.....5.8/9 pitch 3.....5.8/9 (one move) pitch 4.....5.8 (if you head out left and around the move). Or 10.a if you go straight over the bolt pitch 5.....5.7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Cool thanks for the 411. 4th 10a boulder move. Super fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 yeah, i'd pretty much agree with pitch 1-4 ratings you show there. P2 seems like the 5.9 section lasts a little longer than P3 - but P2 is also really short. But how are you defining P5? I guess I typically take P4 all the way up to the shoulder notch (60M), so P5 would just be the ridge scramble, which is < 5.7. Is the "normal" way to stop P4 at the little stance after the slabs/bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 But how are you defining P5? Technically pitch 5 starts where most people stop to belay, right where the ramp from the corner meet up on that ledge with the down tree. Pitch 5 heads out right traversing for about 15 feet then up, clip a hidden piton, then a bolt and connects to the shoulder. Very short but exposed and fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Now I have only done the route once, but IMHO I though P2 was the crux of the climb... 5.9 seems appropriate for that pitch or at least it would be elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I wonder if people are aware that there is other routes at Beacon aside from YW? Also note that there are other crags in the world other then Beacon Rock that have good climbing too. Just something to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinp Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I wonder if people are aware that there is other routes at Beacon aside from YW? Also note that there are other crags in the world other then Beacon Rock that have good climbing too. Just something to think about. thanks for pointing out the obvious... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 are ratings being discussed?? E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O E G O kinda stupid, eh, kevbonehead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Moderators. Please take this spray out of this thread. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I would say those ratings are a bit high for Beacon. If you use Little Wing and Cruisen as compare, I'd say: 1. 5.6 2. 5.8 3. 5.8 4. 5.8 5. 5.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Moderators. Please take this spray out of this thread. Thanks. moderators. Please ban kevbone. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 cheesy smile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Da bears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would say those ratings are a bit high for Beacon. If you use Little Wing and Cruisen as compare, I'd say: 1. 5.6 2. 5.8 3. 5.8 4. 5.8 5. 5.6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would say those ratings are a bit high for Beacon. If you use Little Wing and Cruisen as compare, I'd say: 1. 5.6 2. 5.8 3. 5.8 4. 5.8 5. 5.6 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. cruising at beaocn and snake dike in yos are both 5.7 - i free solo cruising all the time - snake dike was so fuckign scary we bailed only a little way up it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. cruising at beaocn and snake dike in yos are both 5.7 - i free solo cruising all the time - snake dike was so fuckign scary we bailed only a little way up it Did you get to the 3rd pitch crux on the friction slab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. cruising at beaocn and snake dike in yos are both 5.7 - i free solo cruising all the time - snake dike was so fuckign scary we bailed only a little way up it Also you are about 7 ft. tall and don't have to make near as many moves as I do to get Cruising done. You have to touch every hold with your elbow to make it even fair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. cruising at beaocn and snake dike in yos are both 5.7 - i free solo cruising all the time - snake dike was so fuckign scary we bailed only a little way up it Did you get to the 3rd pitch crux on the friction slab? I thought the second pitch was the crux of snake dike. the third pitch was not that bad.....just a high step up and left and it was over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 I would agree that Little Wing is the hardest 5.8 ever and Cruisen is not 5.7 It is very sustained and tricky gear. cruising at beaocn and snake dike in yos are both 5.7 - i free solo cruising all the time - snake dike was so fuckign scary we bailed only a little way up it Did you get to the 3rd pitch crux on the friction slab? I thought the second pitch was the crux of snake dike. the third pitch was not that bad.....just a high step up and left and it was over. The way we did it was the lay out of pitches from the SuperTopo guide book. The Third pitch moves left on a run out slab to get to the dike itself. It can be a real bugger for the second if they come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Daaaaa Bears! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 17, 2009 Author Share Posted September 17, 2009 Bill spraying in a non spray forum again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 Bill spraying in a non spray forum again. Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Best Coach? Mike Ditka of course. Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da BullsDa Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Da Bears da Bulls Interested to see what you all think the grade is on this climb...pitch by pitch? spray? Moi? No sir, this is important stuff, (Da Bears) anyway, I thought you said grades were spray.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.