King Beatard Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Found it 8/31, Describe it and it's yours. Can meet in Portland area to get it back to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 6" petzl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 camp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Mammut? Â Silvery lookin biners...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 Hey wait a bit, was I there for that...? This story seems vaguely familiar. Â Neutrinos on a girth pillar hitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 (edited) interesting place to leave a draw. wonder what happened there... Edited September 8, 2009 by hemp22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Beatard Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 You were there Bill. I figure it must have gotten placed as a directional and then unclipped and forgotten as the belay stance is over a few feet - I'd fire my second if they thought that was any way to clean though. Maybe somebody rapped and didn't trust that beautiful webbing and so sacrificed a draw to ease their mind? Whatever it is, I'll take the story and Karma over the booty. I have much to make up for after Dave and Kenny returned my gear from my SE corner epic last January. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Maybe they bailed and it was a vain attempt to actually reach the ground with a 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Maybe they bailed and it was a vain attempt to actually reach the ground with a 60. Â Â that cant be the case considering how many times I have rapped on a 60 in the same spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Your rope was longer than a 60 then, no 60 of mine out of six ropes has ever made it near the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Your rope was longer than a 60 then, no 60 of mine out of six ropes has ever made it near the ground. Â Â I believe you....its just that I have rapped that pitch with a 60 m rope like maybe 30 times. Makes it (barely) everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orion_sonya Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Your rope was longer than a 60 then, no 60 of mine out of six ropes has ever made it near the ground. Â I'm impressed that you checked to make sure your rope didn't reach the ground at least six times for the same rap - that is true diligence! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 I didn't. I know the route so rapped to the end of the rope and downclimbed which is what you have to do with a 60. No 60 I have owned has ever come close to reaching the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Maybe this damn draw moved over from Monkey Face. I think they are free-range running all over willy-nilly loose over that way. Â http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/904724/LOST_17quickdraws_on_the_bolte#Post904724 Â You were there Bill. I figure it must have gotten placed as a directional and then unclipped and forgotten as the belay stance is over a few feet - I'd fire my second if they thought that was any way to clean though. Maybe somebody rapped and didn't trust that beautiful webbing and so sacrificed a draw to ease their mind? Whatever it is, I'll take the story and Karma over the booty. I have much to make up for after Dave and Kenny returned my gear from my SE corner epic last January. Â I remember now, can I guess can I guess do I get it if I guess right? !!! Â Wait, I only need "TRAD" draws. They pair nicely with my "TRAD" chalkbag, "TRAD" harness and "TRAD" shoes. Â _________________________________________________________________ Â JH, probably just need to leave a longer quickdraw then....Adam has one you can borrow. Â Beacon has plenty of other new convenience raps, this rappel needs ones attention, just like the real world. If it's an emergency, clip a bolt 3/4 of the way down, back it up with a piece of gear and do a 2nd rap. That no one has been injured in the last 10 years suggests that it is not blatantly (or sneakily) dangerous, but merely an inconvenience. When ropes were 50 meters, you needed 2 to get down. 2 are still needed but the 60 gets you closer to the ground so folks shortcut. If the rap bolts were lowered from where they are, they would most likely be right on the 1st pitch route with folks using them for a belay and endangering themselves with potential rope cutting in a fall or they would just be in the way. Besides, they've been there long enough that its a tradition. _______________________________________________________________ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Bill, hey if it were up to me I'd remove them entirely. As it is 10' lower would be infinitely better in every way. It's a ridiculous place to belay p2 from. 10' lower they would neither be in the way or in any danger of cutting the rope from what I can tell. Would like to hear more about how you think that scenario might play out. Where they are now is perfect for Lost Warriors but are absolutely worthless for Young Warriors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 60M rope gets you down with a small amount of trivial down-climbing. So your both right and wrong depending on what you call the ground. I've done it once so that makes me the expert on the subject.  -Nate   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Beatard Posted September 10, 2009 Author Share Posted September 10, 2009 I am suprised at how much attention a gear found post has attracted. I think the moderators might need to upgrade me from a noob for this... ... ... Actually, on second thought it's good to be unworthy of greater e-status. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I am suprised at how much attention a gear found post has attracted. I think the moderators might need to upgrade me from a noob for this... ... ... Actually, on second thought it's good to be unworthy of greater e-status. Â They'll upgrade you to journeyman after you can do a 5.10 first ascent naked in the winter....wait.....you did that last year already. Hey, back to N00b status anyway for the interruption N00b, didn't you see that we're argueing bolts now....sheeese! LOL Â Congrats on your new quickdraw BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Bill, hey if it were up to me I'd remove them entirely. As it is 10' lower would be infinitely better in every way. It's a ridiculous place to belay p2 from. 10' lower they would neither be in the way or in any danger of cutting the rope from what I can tell. Would like to hear more about how you think that scenario might play out. Where they are now is perfect for Lost Warriors but are absolutely worthless for Young Warriors. Â Dont tell Jim that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 I think Jim feels comfortable with less than perfection and sees the good in this as outweighing the bad as this is an opportunity to teach and expand folks worldview as it relates to climbing, ie, that things are less than perfect and you need to keep your head up and pay attention: while JH is seeing it as easy to fix and make it to near perfect and it is less than marginally suitable in it's present condition. Â They probably are both right, but I give Jim the slight nod on it, if someone raps off the end of their rope and their butt slams down 10 feet to the ground, they will have learned a valuable lesson cheaply about paying attention and tying knots in the ends of ropes. One they can transfer to a 1000' high cliff and have a better chance of surviving that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Jim knows my opinion on it. It was a semi-arguable place for an anchor before the dihedral of rocks got trundled, it's been an orphaned anchor ever since. I'm certainly not moving it on my own, but don't buy the logic I've heard to-date as to why it should stay where it is; I get the idea, but it seems like a needlessly contrived / manufactured point of danger to me and not one that was well thought out beyond that three inch ledge being nice to hang out. Oh well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Jim knows my opinion on it. It was a semi-arguable place for an anchor before the dihedral of rocks got trundled, it's been an orphaned anchor ever since. I'm certainly not moving it on my own, but don't buy the logic I've heard to-date as to why it should stay where it is; I get the idea, but it seems like a needlessly contrived / manufactured point of danger to me and not one that was well thought out beyond that three inch ledge being nice to hang out. Oh well... Â I personaly dont care if it is moved down. Just do it. Dont ask Jim, because he doesnt want anything changed at Beacon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Just do it. Dont ask Jim, because he doesnt want anything changed at Beacon. uh, but kev, isn't that the kinda thing you rant about on joe on a regular basis, just doing stuff w/o having gotten the nod from the great oracle? Â ditto on the not caring part - move it or not - it is an orphan now fo'schizzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 Don't "just do it", bad advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 10, 2009 Share Posted September 10, 2009 As I said, I'm not going to do it on my own. I will be replacing bad bolts on it this fall, but not removing, adding, or moving anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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