YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) I understand the lead falls are safer on those and the liability issues involved for the gym owners etc but I am barely making them. Too pumpy and so frustrating! Almost all 5.10s at the PRG are overhanging. I need your input guys as to what kind of training would be best to overcome this: pull ups, push ups, any particular routines? Thanks Edited September 1, 2009 by mitochondria100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Climb more. Seriously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchy Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Overhang Lead FAQs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Overhang Lead FAQs I bet the step aerobics would do just as well if not better. I did put it on hold and thence is the miserable outcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang... Might be tricky but I will try. I think he is more interested in those 5.11 monstrously long traverses across the entire gym! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Naw, it's mostly the kids setting the routes. Tell Gary it's a proxy whine from me - he's heard it all before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Naw, it's mostly the kids setting the routes. Tell Gary it's a proxy whine from me - he's heard it all before... OK, thanks - Joseph! It is reassuring I am not alone then. Anastasia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainsloth Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 strengthen your core, and climb more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I need your input guys as to what kind of training would be best to overcome this: pull ups, push ups, any particular routines? Technique. The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills. Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager. Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training: http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang... Already there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 First of all climb more. When I was strong at the overhangs I was at PRG at least 3 days a week and I bike an hour to get there. I had bad form but I was strong. Being fluid helps and I found that spending some time in the bouldering room helped alot on my movement i.e. keeping the mid section up not down. If you have been going to PRG for a while I would hit up the hang board as well. Don't do alot, maybe once a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang... Already there. And what line is that? Do you mean the bouldering routes on the main overhang? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang... Already there. And what line is that? Do you mean the bouldering routes on the main overhang? I took the month of August off from the PRG but do climb there regularly.......there is always a jug hall ( or a couple ) on the main wall. They grade them 10-. Most of them are easy, just steep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Technique. The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills. Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager. Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training: http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm First of all climb more. When I was strong at the overhangs I was at PRG at least 3 days a week and I bike an hour to get there. I had bad form but I was strong. Being fluid helps and I found that spending some time in the bouldering room helped alot on my movement i.e. keeping the mid section up not down. If you have been going to PRG for a while I would hit up the hang board as well. Don't do alot, maybe once a week. Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these. A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these. A OK, but make sure you don't start showing up posting Trip reports to the Portland Rock Gym (PRG) cause if you do there are folks who will be damn moody and vocal about it if you do! Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? I must sound so old sometimes...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Bill. What does "real climbing" mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimmo Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 and yeah, pull-ups will definitely help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Bill. What does "real climbing" mean? The youngin's always say the cutest damn things... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these. A Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? Are you referring to the CC's "Fitness forum" then since I am not able to locate The techniques and training. Move the thread if you are so compelled to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Yea but those folks are probably just old sprayers wishing they had some energy to climb in the gym. I say post away and let the sprayers spray. Real climbing is a loaded term for sure. It can be done at PRG or anywhere. I'm working on a TR about climbing out of bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 I'm working on a TR about climbing out of bed. That's funny! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 It was tongue in cheek humor aimed at the old folks. We all eagerly await Geoffs trip report climbing out of bed as we know that he hasn't seen the inside of a gym since 8th grade gym class.... Geoff seen here in a previous engagement as a Giardia tester. Geoff rules! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I've been waiting for them to install one of those new TraXmatic Climbing Hold Systems. You know, the one where when you weight a hold it slides up on a track 18" so you can get the next hold and then resets on unweighting. It's all the rage at the geezer gyms in the bigger retirement communities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 I've been waiting for them to install one of those new TraXmatic Climbing Hold Systems. You know, the one where when you weight a hold it slides up on a track 18" so you can get the next hold and then resets on unweighting. It's all the rage at the geezer gyms in the bigger retirement communities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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