eldiente Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 IMO. Climbing steep jug hauls is pointless aside from a good warm-up for the larger muscle groups (back, upper arms) When is the last time you climbed a 45 degree wall outside that was rated 5.9? Doesn't happen, unless your in Spain. Actually not even in Spain as the warm-ups are 5.12. Thoughts. 1.) Steep jug hauls at the gym are nothing more than a long set of colored pull-up bars. Do some lat pulls on the machines and work on being able to do pull-ups with a goal of being able to 10 pull-ups on a bar. 2.) Work those abs. Steep climb is all about core strength. Watch good sport wankers climb limestone, they always start the move by tightening their abs and then moving. If your abs are weak, you'll end up cutting your feet and yarding monkey style off your arms. Do your favorite ab workout, (knees to bar, sit-ups etc) 2.) Since you'll almost never climb a route that is so juggey outside, try to climb steep routes in the gym that are thin/crimpy.. Ok a crimp route on a 45 degree wall might be too hard (say 5.12) Cheat and use all of the thin holds on the wall but put your feet on the jugs. The idea is to engage your finger/crimping strength which is more realistic to what you might find outside. 3.) Boulder. PRG has a few walls that are way steep. Do laps on these walls with a goal of being able to do 4 routes in a row without stopping. If you can do 4 routes on the 45 degree boulder wall, you'll have no problem leading 5.10 at the gym. -Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 I'm working on a TR about climbing out of bed. How is Kim's belay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Not like it's real climbing... sure it is, bill, it plastic climbing... its the red-headed stepchild of rock, ice, alpine or aid climbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Still waiting for your TR from this weekend. Obviously, Ivan didn't get you killed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 1.) Steep jug hauls at the gym are nothing more than a long set of colored pull-up bars. Do some lat pulls on the machines and work on being able to do pull-ups with a goal of being able to 10 pull-ups on a bar. In the NW you won't find such routes, they are available in other places on other rock types. Also, there is a monkey freedom of dynamic movement on steep jugs that is not available on steep crimps. Personally, I find steep crimps boring and did back in the mid-70s as well when we were doing .12s/.13s. I'd rather bump out to flat roofs then work the tedium of steep crimps, but then I'm way more into monkey business than the endless tedium of crimpfests (not to mention I have old, damaged fingers) - others have different proclivities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 its the red-headed stepchild of rock, ice, alpine or aid climbing! If I'm interested in red-heads I go to the Crux where the girls have figured out they don't have to don those nasty, obfusticating harnesses and no one has to sort out knots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 2.) Since you'll almost never climb a route that is so juggey outside, try to climb steep routes in the gym that are thin/crimpy.. Ok a crimp route on a 45 degree wall might be too hard (say 5.12) Cheat and use all of the thin holds on the wall but put your feet on the jugs. The idea is to engage your finger/crimping strength which is more realistic to what you might find outside. Yes I hear you Nate: for as long as someone could lead that 5.12 or whatever and set up the top-rope. Otherwise, I am afraid I waste more time on lead falling and not on the actual climbing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Still waiting for your TR from this weekend. Obviously, Ivan didn't get you killed. no but we were nursing hangovers sunday morning after a parking-lot pow-wow saturday night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 SHOULDA WORN A HELMET Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 there is a monkey freedom of dynamic movement on steep jugs that is not available on steep crimps. Thuggery is fun! Getting pumped can be caused by lack of vascularity which can be cured by lifting weights hi rep lo wt or lots of 5.8 thuggery. Crimpy routes at the gym lead to extensive knowledge of finger tendon issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 The best way to get pumped less is to get pumped more. Steep routes are loads of fun but you do need to develop core strength and be able to do a few pull ups now and then. Boulderign can help with the power of the moves themselves. Hangboards can help you train your tendons no to snap when you manage to stick the throw to the mono pocket too, pretty useful if you want to climb lots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 SHOULDA WORN A HELMET It hurt to wear the one I had on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I think RuMR was referring to a Jimmy Protecter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I think RuMR was referring to a Jimmy Protecter. The country had one of those in the 80s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! I'd consider it a small price to pay to learn how to aid climb on your own. Many others pay with their lives. Much cheaper and easier to just get instruction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! I'd consider it a small price to pay to learn how to aid climb on your own. Many others pay with their lives. Much cheaper and easier to just get instruction. The "more experienced" partner I was with did not think it was necessary for this particular route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 The "more experienced" partner I was with did not think it was necessary for this particular route. Congratulations both on explaining in such few words how inexperienced they were and also in surviving the trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 You could not get back your draws? The second had to go up the rope but could not take the draws? No fifi or no ascenders? Wondering cause I am planning on doing that route this weekend and I am the "more experienced" one:) Doubt that they will be there, but if they are I will get them back to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! funny, i stood in line on that bolt line last spring and watched as the team before me snatched up 17 some odd such left draws! aid climbing's actually retard-easy (thus, the attraction for me), certainly easier than high-end sport climbing - there's plenty of room for stylistic variation, but i can't live w/o my fifi, even on free climbs - some folks don't use'em much though - learning to solo aid climb in particuliar is fun b/c then you don't have to sit around waiting for anything go back to the monkey for revenge - that bolt ladder requires no etriers, just a fifi and towards the top a few extended draws work fine as stirrups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 you can always just say fuck it and learn to aid climb too Ivan, I do not know what is best though. My first aided attempt (but w/out Fifi) was a failure when I got on the bolted ladder on Monkey face and had to leave all my 17 quickdraws on it. BTW, I wonder if they are still up there and if someone some time in the future will be climbing the Pioneer route, please, please clean them up and return them to me. I will also post this to LOST and FOUND! why don't you post on craigslist under the heading FREE BOOTY! don't forget to wear a helmet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) Sure as shit those musta been your draws. Not going to ask what happened cause I know shit does but damn, can't imagine .... Anyhow, PBR drinking dude that snagged them works at Deschutes in Bend. Can't see why he wouldn't return them. Here he is. Edited September 2, 2009 by geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Sure as shit those musta been your draws. Not going to ask what happened cause I know shit does but damn, can't imagine .... Anyhow, PBR drinking dude that snagged them works at Deschutes in Bend. Can't see why he wouldn't return them. Deschutes referring to the brewery, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Are you accusing a dude who works at Deschutes brewery of (gasp) drinking PBR? Strong words. Maybe she'll get her draws back although it's traditionally considered bad form to leave your gear like so much trash on a popular route. I've only heard of stuff being return if it gets left behind in an accident/forced bail, otherwise, folks think it's booty and they are contributing to the general good by cleaning up the trash others left behind. Good luck! Geoff - I heard you were just huddled in the neck cave from the rain the other day? No pictures of this sogfest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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