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Overhanging leads at the PRG


YocumRidge

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I understand the lead falls are safer on those and the liability issues involved for the gym owners etc but I am barely making them. Too pumpy and so frustrating! Almost all 5.10s at the PRG are overhanging.

 

I need your input guys as to what kind of training would be best to overcome this: pull ups, push ups, any particular routines?

 

Thanks

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I need your input guys as to what kind of training would be best to overcome this: pull ups, push ups, any particular routines?

 

 

Technique.

 

The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills.

 

Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager.

 

Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training:

 

http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm

 

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First of all climb more. When I was strong at the overhangs I was at PRG at least 3 days a week and I bike an hour to get there. I had bad form but I was strong.

 

Being fluid helps and I found that spending some time in the bouldering room helped alot on my movement i.e. keeping the mid section up not down.

 

If you have been going to PRG for a while I would hit up the hang board as well. Don't do alot, maybe once a week.

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Tell Gary to please get his kids to put a jug line you can do laps on up the main overhang...

 

 

Already there.

 

And what line is that? Do you mean the bouldering routes on the main overhang?

 

 

I took the month of August off from the PRG but do climb there regularly.......there is always a jug hall ( or a couple ) on the main wall. They grade them 10-. Most of them are easy, just steep.

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Technique.

 

The goal is to get your hips up against the wall and keep as much weight on your feet as possible. If you haven't yet, consider taking a personal lesson or two so that someone can critique your technique and give you a few pointers and drills to improve your skills.

 

Also realize that a woman shaped like a woman (or a guy inflating his spare tire) is going to have to have better technique and isn't going to progress as fast on overhanging terrain as a skinny teenager.

 

Here's a link to Eric Horst's online training:

 

http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm http://www.nicros.com/training.cfm

First of all climb more. When I was strong at the overhangs I was at PRG at least 3 days a week and I bike an hour to get there. I had bad form but I was strong.

 

Being fluid helps and I found that spending some time in the bouldering room helped alot on my movement i.e. keeping the mid section up not down.

 

If you have been going to PRG for a while I would hit up the hang board as well. Don't do alot, maybe once a week.

 

Thanks peoples for the great suggestions.

 

I'll do my best to implement these.

 

A

 

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Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these.

 

A

 

OK, but make sure you don't start showing up posting Trip reports to the Portland Rock Gym (PRG) cause if you do there are folks who will be damn moody and vocal about it if you do! Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? :)

 

I must sound so old sometimes......

:wave:

 

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Thanks peoples for the great suggestions. I'll do my best to implement these.

 

A

 

Not like it's real climbing...and shouldn't this be in the techniques and training and not the rockclimbing forum anyway? :)

 

 

Are you referring to the CC's "Fitness forum" then since I am not able to locate The techniques and training. Move the thread if you are so compelled to.

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Yea but those folks are probably just old sprayers wishing they had some energy to climb in the gym. I say post away and let the sprayers spray.

 

Real climbing is a loaded term for sure. It can be done at PRG or anywhere. I'm working on a TR about climbing out of bed.

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I've been waiting for them to install one of those new TraXmatic Climbing Hold Systems. You know, the one where when you weight a hold it slides up on a track 18" so you can get the next hold and then resets on unweighting. It's all the rage at the geezer gyms in the bigger retirement communities.

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I've been waiting for them to install one of those new TraXmatic Climbing Hold Systems. You know, the one where when you weight a hold it slides up on a track 18" so you can get the next hold and then resets on unweighting. It's all the rage at the geezer gyms in the bigger retirement communities.

 

:tup::tup:

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