Beacon Bolt Replacement

[JosephH]

I have fifty 1/2" stainless bolts and matching Fixe SS hangers. The only thing I have in mind for sure is fixing a couple of bad bolts on YW and Flightime - beyond that I'm open to suggestions for what else is worth considering replacing. Seems like some odds and ends would also be good candidates like the bolt on RR, etc.

[billcoe]

I have fifty 1/2" stainless bolts and matching Fixe SS hangers. The only thing I have in mind for sure is fixing a couple of bad bolts on YW and Flightime - beyond that I'm open to suggestions for what else is worth considering replacing. Seems like some odds and ends would also be good candidates like the bolt on RR, etc.

 

That entire arete to the left of Blownout is bereft of bolts.

[John Frieh]

Bolt anchor to replace the two pin anchor at the top of p3 on YW

[billcoe]

Just kidding on the arete there.

 

Bolt anchor to replace the two pin anchor at the top of p3 on YW

 

Nah, there is a great crack for gear in the back of the corner right there. The pins are classic and toss in a small yellow alien for strength, plus there is a bolt early on the next pitch. Better to get the arete first.

[ivan]

Bolt anchor to replace the two pin anchor at the top of p3 on YW

why? there's excellent gear to be had there, including a directional that takes any fall off the anchor anyhow, and a fat ledge to belay from at any rate- beacon tradition seems to be to eschew bolts in such case (like on tree ledge). i'd get jim's ok at any rate before doing it (funny, i didn't even notice those pins were there till the 3rd time i did the route )

 

most of the bolt stations on jensen's ridge are horrorshows and are impossible to bail off of in case of emergency

 

lead bolts on fresh squeeze and (the 2nd) on pipedream are super-sketch, as is the upper anchor on pipedream

 

most of the hangers on the norseman's head pitches on stephenwulf are dangerous

 

i'd dig on having the last flight time anchor replaced (and the shrubbery cut out) as i've been wanting to do that for awhile but have beendoing other things b/c of them

[kevbone]

there will be no added anchor on young warriors. That is a gear anchor first and foremost.

[ivan]

there will be no added anchor on young warriors. That is a gear anchor first and foremost.

dude, why so aggro? niggaz' just asking for opinions at the moment

 

there are some rotting anchors left of and slightly above my "it takes a village" anchor - not certain what ever they were there for, but mayahp replace and figur eit out?

[Farrgo]

I only have a vague recollection... but couldn't the bolts on Borderline use an upgrade? Definate 2nd on Jensen's Ridge.

[kevbone]

I replaced the first set of anchors on Jensens Ridge in 2005. Bomber I tell you.

[Farrgo]

Maybe from there up? I remember some pretty sketch fixed gear.

[ols]

Perhaps...at the top of Ten-a-cee stemming / Av's Route.

People have been lowering off slings wrapped around detached blocks for a mighty long time.

[ivan]

Maybe from there up? I remember some pretty sketch fixed gear.

i doubt our dear boy kevin has gotten a pitch more up on that there route - it lacks the beauty of pipeline (again, the first picth)

 

and yes, the pitches above the first anchors all have b.s. (the final ones are 1/4 inchers) and no slings/rings

[ivan]

btw, joe, if you want some company on somma that shit (and ye wanna climb up to, rather than rap down into, them) i'd be happy to lend a hand, especially the ones i mentioned

[kevbone]

i doubt our dear boy kevin has gotten a pitch more up on that there route - it lacks the beauty of pipeline (again, the first picth)

 

 

Nope, never done anything except the first pitch of JR. Never said I did. Waiting to "free" it. Do you remember what it is like to "free" something Ivan? Just asking.

[ivan]

 

Nope, never done anything except the first pitch of JR. Never said I did. Waiting to "free" it. Do you remember what it is like to "free" something Ivan? Just asking.

nope, i never free anything

 

you know i don't rag on you like the peanut gallery, esse, just flip'n'you yer minumally deserved shit - and you are seriously missing out on experiencing some of the sweetest parts of the Big B if you're stickign to some sorta "i shalt not aid" ethic - at any rate, the next pitch is about hte same rating as pipeline p1 i recall, the thinnest part at the start being nearly identical, ableit w/ a fuckload more exposure, so you could proably do it if you wanted, its just gonna be grungy

 

the last pitch at any rate is hella cool at 9+, and yes, even a godless sodomite like me has got up it sans aid

 

at any rate, the point is you can't judge the upper jensens anchors, which ya did seem to be doing, w/o having been up there...

[JosephH]

lead bolts on fresh squeeze and (the 2nd) on pipedream are super-sketch, as is the upper anchor on pipedream most of the hangers on the norseman's head pitches on stephenwulf are dangerous

Good suggestions; will put them on the list.

 

btw, joe, if you want some company on somma that shit (and ye wanna climb up to, rather than rap down into, them) i'd be happy to lend a hand, especially the ones i mentioned

Ivan, that would be great, particularly on Flightime.

 

Bolt anchor to replace the two pin anchor at the top of p3 on YW

John, have to join the crowd on YW p3. Over a couple of years I checked and reset or replaced all the pins out at Beacon that most folks besides Ivan would ever run across (with the exception of the two up on Stone Rodeo) and those YW p3 pins are bomb (and classic relics). What I find most interesting about that belay is that almost no one seems to redirect through pieces in the obvious large crack right above where you first come up onto the ledge; they instead incur a ton of rope drag letting their ropes cut through the moss on the ground, wierd.

 

And interestingly, the two most problematic of all the checked and reset pins out at Beacon were the YW p1 and p4 pins - I'd say both have only about an 70-80% chance of holding a significant fall even after having been reset as well as one could (and the p4 angle is entirely unnecessary). Also, if it were up to me a lot of YW bolts would simply disappear - but obviously it's not.

 

Perhaps...at the top of Ten-a-cee stemming / Av's Route. People have been lowering off slings wrapped around detached blocks for a mighty long time.

I wasn't planning on adding any anchors at all, though that has been on my radar for some time. I'd defer to a consensus on that one, but it's a pretty ratty affair as is.

 

I only have a vague recollection... but couldn't the bolts on Borderline use an upgrade?

I haven't gotten back on Borderline yet this year, but those and the Second Wind bolts could probably stand a refresh.

 

Maybe from there up? I remember some pretty sketch fixed gear.

I do still have an unfinished anchor agenda which mostly consists of the lines left of Pipeline on around Jensens Ridge (gotta kill the oak over there this year) so those are already on the list. If there are bad existing protection bolts on Jensen's then it would make sense to hit them at the same time as well as check all the pins across that last sweep.

 

All - those are good suggestions. I'll be starting out slow and probably doing most of this once it starts getting chilly so we'll have plenty of time to think about it and consider each of them before they happen. Volunteers are definitely welcome.

[kevbone]

I vote for an anchor replacement on Ten-a-cee stemming. Right now its just webbing. I would be in favor of the "addition" of a bolted anchor there instead of webbing wrapped around a block. IMO.

 

JH.....I do add a directional on YW p 3 anchor. Just like you described. Up high in the crack when you first gain the ledge. I am with you on that.

 

 

[MtnHigh]

I do not feel that the top of YW p3 needs any bolts. As others have suggested here, there are numerous gear options to build an anchor. Twice this summer I've built an anchor in the corner (left of the pins, right of the start of p4) with nothing but nuts.

 

Lets try to keep the routes at Beacon as natural as reasonably possible.

[MtnHigh]

I think that YW p1 could use some protection clean up.

 

The first bolt is misplaced (too far right) and there are two gear options within 6' of the bolt (above and below the bolt) directly on the climb line.

 

The pin about 35' up is redundant. There is a bolt 12' below it and another bolt 4' above it. The climbing in this section is not difficult (5.7-5.8) and it does not warrant such closely placed fix gear.

 

[kevbone]

I think that YW p1 could use some protection clean up.

 

The first bolt is misplaced (too far right) and there are two gear options within 6' of the bolt (above and below the bolt) directly on the climb line.

 

The pin about 35' up is redundant. There is a bolt 12' below it and another bolt 4' above it. The climbing in this section is not difficult (5.7-5.8) and it does not warrant such closely placed fix gear.

 

If we are talking "clean up" of young warriors......lets take all the bolts out of pitch 2 and add one where it really needs one. Right below the "butthole" roof. Right smack dab in the middle of the rock, right where you stand before you head up.

 

Jim put that bolt on p1 there because if you fell....that is the fall line. Nothing to hit.